Adjusting trigger pull in S&W pocket revolvers
- Thread starter SethHaan
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My theory is that if it is a carry piece I do not tinker with it. If it is just a range toy then I might.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
You need to "Cowboy Up" if you want to carry a revolver.
Doug M.
Member
The geometry of the J frames does not generally result in a target gun trigger. One can sort of get there, but if you want something that shoots like a K38 ... get a K38. To me, a J frame is a BUG only, and barely that. They are mechanically capable of fine accuracy, but the ergonomics of the trigger vs. the light weight of the platform require higher levels of patience and skill.
As implied above, reliability is critical and the shooter must work to overcome the reality of shooting a moderatly unfriendly platform. When I was in uniform, my G33 was a BUG and I carried a spare mag too. I worked in rural areas most of the time and backup could be far enough away to make it illusory. I only knew of one deputy who had more stuff accessible and he came from rough urban LE.
On the rare occasions I carry a revolver, it is usually my 4" M66 with a factory action job and gold bead front sight, round-butted by BMCM.
As implied above, reliability is critical and the shooter must work to overcome the reality of shooting a moderatly unfriendly platform. When I was in uniform, my G33 was a BUG and I carried a spare mag too. I worked in rural areas most of the time and backup could be far enough away to make it illusory. I only knew of one deputy who had more stuff accessible and he came from rough urban LE.
On the rare occasions I carry a revolver, it is usually my 4" M66 with a factory action job and gold bead front sight, round-butted by BMCM.
Dry or live fire 600-800 times and you will find that it smooths out nicely, plus you will have a stronger, steadier trigger finger. At least, that is my experience.
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halfmoonclip
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There's no harm in replacing the rebound slide spring. I have a Wolff kit, with springs from 11 to 15lb pounds. It's wise to pick a weight that balances trigger pull and feel.
It's also a good idea to slick up everything that moves inside. Use a stone; the objective is to polish the parts.
Most of us aren't Jerry Miculek, but it is possible to out run a revolver trigger. Make sure that the rebound spring you choose will always, promptly, carry the trigger forward.
Moon
It's also a good idea to slick up everything that moves inside. Use a stone; the objective is to polish the parts.
Most of us aren't Jerry Miculek, but it is possible to out run a revolver trigger. Make sure that the rebound spring you choose will always, promptly, carry the trigger forward.
Moon
I purchased an M&P 340 some years ago. The trigger pull was rough and measured over 12 pounds. So yes, I replaced the hammer spring and the trigger rebound spring. I polished the bottom of the rebound slide and other areas that have proven to help. (do NOT touch the trigger or sear engagement surfaces!). IIRC the trigger pull got down to 8 pounds and was much smoother. 8 pounds is OK for double action, and smoother is more accurate.
If you do anything to the hammer spring, test the revolver extensively with your carry ammo to make certain that you are getting ignition every time.
If you do anything to the hammer spring, test the revolver extensively with your carry ammo to make certain that you are getting ignition every time.
8lbs pull is better than okay, it's incredible for a J-frame, and even K-frames and above 8lbs is about as low as you want to go and still reliably pop any factory primer.
Agreed that smooth more important than light to shooting double-action well.
Welcome to the S&W Forums. I have only one J-frame S&W, a Model 640-1. It is double action only and the only things I have done to it to improve the trigger pull is a good cleaning and proper lubrication plus plenty of dry firing and live firing. Keep in mind that these are designed to be defensive handguns and most likely to be used at short distances. They are not precision target handguns and the size and design of the lock work does not lend itself to being turned into such.
My hands are still plenty strong enough to handle a J-frame, but getting them in the right position to more readily operate the trigger is my problem. It’s a conflict of interests for me to keep the gun small and handy, as it should be, and have grips big enough to at least partially accommodate my hand size. The Pachmayr “Compac” grip has always been the best for me, but it does hamper hiding the gun. Something even bigger would be preferable, but then one might just as well carry a K-frame.
My advice is to dry fire the snot out of it. There's a lot of benefits to dry firing if you do it right, one of them being that the trigger smooths and lightens up. Keep in mind that it'll never get to the point of it being a 1911 trigger, but it will get better.
Your hand and finger muscle memory will also benefit greatly, as long as you dry fire correctly. Like I tell me students, "when you dry fire make sure you grip the gun, not hold it". You have to grip it as tight as you would when live firing it. You'll be surprised at how much better the trigger will feel after some regular dry fire practice. Spending just 5 to 10 minutes a day correctly dry firing it the key.
Good luck with your little pocket mule.
Your hand and finger muscle memory will also benefit greatly, as long as you dry fire correctly. Like I tell me students, "when you dry fire make sure you grip the gun, not hold it". You have to grip it as tight as you would when live firing it. You'll be surprised at how much better the trigger will feel after some regular dry fire practice. Spending just 5 to 10 minutes a day correctly dry firing it the key.
Good luck with your little pocket mule.
Please don't cut any coils off on the mainspring; if you have a carry gun and God forbid you ever need to use it you won't feel the trigger poundage - you won't even think about it.
Wilson Combat et al make spring kits for J-Frame revolvers, but as a previous poster said this might be acceptable for range/target guns but not for personal protection carry pieces.
Lastly, and I am NO lawyer, if you have the unfortunate happenstance to use the gun you may be asked by some prosecutor if you modified the trigger in any way. If you did, to make it easier, it won't go well for you (i.e., making it easier to shoot someone by modifying the trigger). YMMV.
Wilson Combat et al make spring kits for J-Frame revolvers, but as a previous poster said this might be acceptable for range/target guns but not for personal protection carry pieces.
Lastly, and I am NO lawyer, if you have the unfortunate happenstance to use the gun you may be asked by some prosecutor if you modified the trigger in any way. If you did, to make it easier, it won't go well for you (i.e., making it easier to shoot someone by modifying the trigger). YMMV.
Doug M.
Member
^^ A competent defense attorney will prevent that, as it is not relevant to an intentional shooting.
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Respectfully, I would learn to shoot the gun the way it comes from the factory. There were (still are?) cop jobs that frowned upon such changes and would replace those springs with factory originals at annual qualifications. No joke if it doesn't go bang.
Not a fan of "dry firing the snot" out of snubs. Must be related to my sinus problems.
Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
My wife came home one day with a S&W EDC kit that our general store had on sale for 580 dollars. The kit had a 360J 357mag with real nice wood grips . Well the trigger pull was over 13lbs and my 68 year old wife had to work to pull thru the DA trigger pull . I bought a Apex Tactical J frame kit that changes hammer, rebound and firing pin spring along with the firing pin . Great reliable trigger pull now with a upper 7lb da pull weight and a 2lb 4oz SA pull weight and its been reliable tested with wolf small rifle primes in a some midle 357mag home rolled loads but mostly 357mag brass with 38+P power levels . The nice stock grips have been replaced with hogue mono grips and now my wife likes it . But it is still not a daily carry . That goes to ether a p365xl or ruger max 380 . Yes the 360J has proven reliable too over the last 1.5 years and 400+ rounds .
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I have sinus problems too, but I'd rather dry fire the snot out of a revolver than to dry fire the other "S" word, you know, the "S" word that is not allowed to be posted on the forums, out of my revolvers.Not a fan of "dry firing the snot" out of snubs. Must be related to my sinus problems.
Kaaskop49
Shield #5103
max503
Member
I've owned and used, quite frequently, a Model 34 since about 1980. That particular gun has needed a new mainspring about every 5-10 years.
And No, I would not try to reduce the trigger pull by installing a lighter spring. Stay with what it is designed for.
And No, I would not try to reduce the trigger pull by installing a lighter spring. Stay with what it is designed for.
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My wife’s Ruger LCR .38 snub has a much better trigger than any J frame S&W ever made and it’s 100 percent reliable. The gun is homely as a mud fence but great grips and sights exactly as a defensive weapon should be. and a good DA trigger is very important to accurate shooting when things are happening fast and targets are moving. Can’t believe S&W can’t build a J frame trigger to equal Ruger
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