Advice on a Model 27 purchase

[Mstorm]

Found a nice 27-3 at my LGS, seems in very good condition (minor scratches and holster wear) and feels like it's had a trigger job (well done in my opinion---but bear in mind that my opinion is that of a relative newbie). I should add that when I purchased my 19-3 at auction, I phoned my gunsmith saying the trigger felt great on that one---when I took it to him, he smiled and said: "you were right on this one, whoever did the trigger job knew exactly what he was doing, very very nice, real nice rig". So at this point I may have an overinflated opinion of my ability to spot a great trigger job.
All that preface aside---My question is that this would be my fifth Smith (have a 10-5,13-2,19-3 and a 67-1) all the rest are pinned and some recessed (just bought the 67-1 and it hasn't been delivered yet) so I'm wondering if I should hold out for a pinned and recessed version 27? I also don't know if this current 27-3 is priced right, they're asking $899.99 and this shop tends to be fairly inflexible (even when they do move it's generally only $25-$40). That said they are including an older holster (the one the previous owner likely kept it in). Any thoughts you guys might have would be appreciated.

 

[ken158]

If you want a P&R gun then don't settle for less. Trigger jobs can be good or bad. Did you check for push off? Holsters have little to no value so don't get excited about a thrown in a holster. And don't store your gun in a holster.

 

[bluetopper]

I'll add, the revolvers you mentioned all had fantastic triggers when they left the factory and they got better with use. They were much, much better than other brands of revolvers of the era. Your gunsmith to assume it was tampered with is a stretch in my opinion.

 

[CH4]

Hold out for a 27-2 or earlier. The essence of the 27 is the checkered top strap, pinned barrel and recessed chambers.

 

[mchom]

Imo if it's in a shorter barrel length like 3.5 or 4 it sounds like decent price assuming condition and function are good. If you desire a PR 27-2 or older then no harm in passing to seek a more desirable 27 since your also open to buying from auctions. Really depends if your leaning more towards more vintage.

 

[CH4]

Imo if it's in a shorter barrel length like 3.5 or 4 it sounds like decent price assuming condition and function are good. If you desire a PR 27-2 or older then no harm in passing to seek a more desirable 27 since your also open to buying from auctions. Really depends if your leaning more towards more vintage.

There're no 3.5" 27-3s. Around 1979, they dropped the 3.5 and 5 inch barrels for the 4"; in 1982, the P&R was phased out.

 

[colt_saa]

My opinion goes the other way.

You have one that is readily available to you Right Now. Buy It

Just do not stop looking for that 2nd engineering revision Model 27 that you are seeking

You can always sell this one when/if you find one that you prefer

In the meantime you have a Model 27 to shoot until the other comes around



My Very First NEW firearm was the 6" Nickel Model 27 in the upper right corner of this old group photo

That first NEW firearm purchase was 45 years ago and that revolver will never be sold as long as I draw breath

Personally I LOVE all members of the Model 27/327/627 family of revolvers.

I own more than I need, but not as many as I want

 

[mchom]

Correction

There're no 3.5" 27-3s. Around 1979, they dropped the 3.5 and 5 inch barrels for the 4"; in 1982, the P&R was phased out.

Yes I was mistaken. Thx for catching

 

[Mstorm]

You guys are great

The one I first referenced that is at the store is a 6". My other parameter was that I have a smaller hand and all the others I own are K frames --the 27 would be the first N frame. Definitely want a P&R version but I also thought that this 27-3 might be a good way to experiment with whether or not I even like the N-frames, determine that and then move on from it into a P&R 27-2---reason being those versions do seem to be quite a bit more expensive than the $899+tax that this 27-3 would be (one of you actually suggested that strategy--use this as an entry level 27). However, that strategy would require buying this one at the "right price" and I didn't know if $899+tax was reasonable for a 27-3 in very good (not excellent) condition (in my untrained opinion it looks like a 90-95% gun --and I know the blue book gives some guidance but I've come to find it's often low).
In my head a 27-2 would be more like a $1400+tax version, or am I wrong
Can't tell you how much I appreciate all the advice to date

 

[stansdds]

The Model 27-3 is not pinned and recessed, but does that really matter? In my opinion, for a collector piece it does matter, but for a shooter grade that is going to be shot, no, it does not matter. Recessed chambers are harder to clean, plain and simple. The pin holding the barrel does not actually keep the barrel in the frame, all barrels are torqued into the frame (crush fit). The pin can keep a loose barrel from unscrewing itself, but that's all it does. So for a shooter, I think a 27-3 would be just fine.

You mentioned you have smaller hands and own several K-frames. The N-frame is a good bit bigger in all dimensions than the K-frame. As much as you may like the P&R thing, the S&W L-frame is the ideal size for the 357 Magnum cartridge. It has a slightly larger frame and cylinder, but the grip is still a K-frame. When holding that 27-3, if it feels like a stretch in your hands or is uncomfortable, then it is going to be uncomfortable to shoot and hard to control.

As to price, a 6 inch Model 27-3 with 90% finish for $900 is at the top end of the price range. I think $800 would be a good deal in today's inflation driven market. Now if you live in an area that is not gun friendly or an area where revolvers are rarely seen for sale, then the price will be at the high end of the spectrum.

 

[Nightowl]

I do not own a non P&R Model 27. I have several 627s though and other N frames that are not P&R and they are fine guns! I would not let that hold me back from a buying a model 27-3.
I also have smaller hands and while I have K frame and L frame guns, almost all my shooting is with N frame guns, so it can be done.
I don't think $900 is out of line for a mechanically sound 27-3 that has not been abused.

 

[Hawg Rider]

I'm in the P&R camp, and have a few of those .357 Magnums and Model 27s in my modest collection. I'm also predominantly an N-frame guy, but I do have J-frames and K-frames. If you like that 27-3, get it while you can...perhaps you can get the price down a little. I assume that the revolver has the large checkered target stocks and that's one of the things holding you back. Though not P&R, it's still a fine revolver, and you can always get some custom stocks that fit your hand perfectly from one of the fine craftsmen here on the Forum. Good luck with your decision!

 

[glenncal1]

A few years ago I owned 27-2's in all the barrel lengths except 4". My 4" gun was a dash 3. The -3 shot as well as any of them, trigger was extremely smooth in DA and crisp in SA. I really don't think you are going to find a 27 with a bad trigger (maybe the later ones but I doubt it).

If you are looking for a shooter a -3 is as good as a -2 imho. As far as collecting, as you said you are going to pay more now for a good -2 and will sell it for more in the future. The -3 will appreciate as well, will it appreciate at the same rate as a -2? Who knows.

 

[H P Bushrod]

I picked up a 27-2 8 3/8 inch gun built in 1973 for $900.00 and some change recently. Someone traded it in at the local gun store. It has a couple of cosmetic issues (some pitting at the end of the barrel and some rust spots), but that definitely doesn't affect how she shoots. I've always loved the way the 27's had the checkering on the top strap of the gun. They've always been works of art to me. If you can grab one, don't let it get away from you.

 

[Mstorm]

Live in the free state of Texas

So, I could just keep looking, and I'm not averse to the auction format so there are plenty of avenues. Then again, I may still just pick up this 27-3 as an experiment and then if I like it (the N-frame) continue my search for a 27-2. I only recently (this year really) picked up the bug of vintage Smiths. Have been a 1911 and Hi-Power lover for most of the other years. Am 69 now so recoil is starting to become more and more of a factor, doing less and less 45 and more and more 9mm as a response. But I ran across and bought a beautiful model 19-3 and months later a Nickel 13-2 and by then the virus had completely taken hold--I was smitten. So, my next question to all you brilliant fellows is: "What is a good "light" commercial load (I'm too dumb to reload) you guys would recommend in 357s for these vintage rascals. I'll likely be shooting a lot more 38 specials than 357 but it would be nice to experiment with some "light" 357s.
I am past the age of wanting the "hottest round" I can find---if that urge were to EVER resurface, I own a S&W 460XVR that will put me back in my place. So, any good ammo suggestions?

 

[stansdds]

A good reduced power load for defense... there's plenty these days! Federal's 38 Special 130 grain HST, Speer's Gold Dot 135 grain 38 Special or 357 Short Barrel, and Remington's 38 Special 125 grain Golden Saber immediately spring to my mind as effective, reduced power defensive loads.

 

[Mstorm]

Thank you STANSDDS, great idea for 38's but I find any 38 very reasonable and easy shooting in these 357 pistols---what I need to find are some "light load" 357 cartridges. Any ideas on 357?

 

[mikeruns]

Buffalo Bore offers a lower recoil and flash 357, as does Speer Gold Dot(135 grain) made for snub bbl 357s' but will work in longer bbls too.

 

[stansdds]

Thank you STANSDDS, great idea for 38's but I find any 38 very reasonable and easy shooting in these 357 pistols---what I need to find are some "light load" 357 cartridges. Any ideas on 357?

The Speer 135 grain Gold Dot Short Barrel 357 load is a great reduced power load, if you can find. I have never actually seen any. Remington's 125 grain Golden Saber is also an excellent reduced power 357 load.

 

[Doug M.]

The Model 27-3 is not pinned and recessed, but does that really matter? In my opinion, for a collector piece it does matter, but for a shooter grade that is going to be shot, no, it does not matter. Recessed chambers are harder to clean, plain and simple.

*
I have or have had a couple of recessed cylinder revolvers, and I concur 100%. For a regularly used/shot revolver, I find the recesses a pain, and of no objective utility.