Air Weight 642 Question

ronlovell

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I bought my wife a 642 yesterday. Then we took it out to the farm for a little target practice. What's the secret to hitting anything with this pistol besides standing right beside it? I have lot's of pistols and I can shoot pretty good and so can my wife. She scored a 100 on her personal carry permit class. So she ain't no slouch shooter.

Anybody no the trick?
 
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I bought my wife a 642 yesterday. Then we took it out to the farm for a little target practice. What's the secret to hitting anything with this pistol besides standing right beside it? I have lot's of pistols and I can shoot pretty good and so can my wife. She scored a 100 on her personal carry permit class. So she ain't no slouch shooter.

Anybody no the trick?
 
I owned a J frame snuby once..After shooting it for a year or so at different ranges using different firing techniques I came to a conclusion. They were truly meant to be used where the target is not more than arms reach or so away.. other than that I felt that I would have more effect throwing it at the target. They have a very heavy double action trigger pull that pulls the weapon off target. There really is no length to the sight picture. Unless you have tiny hands you are holding something with no way to tell were its pointed. The small slippery walnut grip on my weapon was not much help.

snap fire double action single handed point shooting at a silhouette type target..forget it..out of five shots I'd get maybe two shoulder shots. Anyone standing NEAR the target was in more danger.

Double handed single action slow aimed fire is not to atrocious ,but that's not something I'd like to try under fire. For it's intended purpose I suppose it is fine..it's a real belly gun if you know what I mean.

.I suppose the laser sights could extend the useful range.
 
I have several including the light weights and they all shoot well out to 25 yards and beyond. The key is practice and trigger control. I have a 317 2" and that little .22 has helped my double action shooting more than anything. Don't give up, most likely it is not the gun.
 
I have a 642 and really like that little gun. Like all 2" J frames they are ment to be close range personal defense guns.

I can keep all shots in a 5" circle at 10 yards off hand. I have no doubt that many can do much better. Keep a firm grip on the gun, and follow that with a with a smooth trigger pull. I also practice with A-ZOOM Snap Caps.

I have read that most defensive shootings occur at 7 yards or less. The J frames are great guns in that regard.

Best

Bob
 
Thanks guys I know it's not the gun. I found a pair of Crimson Trace grips with a thicker backstrap(she said it hurt her hand with some 38+P rounds) to cushion the back ot the gun more and now she'll have to just practice. But even when I tried it I thought where in the hell is this thing hitting at. Got me a new Sig P250(.45) so I'll leave the S&W to her.
 
Dittos regarding AZoom cap dry-fire practice. I have a 642 and put Crimson Lasers on it. After thousands of "rounds' of dry firing I am finding that I like the original grips better and don't depend upon the laser for accuracy. It's all in the trigger pull and the more it is dry-fired the smoother the trigger action becomes.
 
Practice practice practice. While I'm not as accurate with my 642 as I am with other guns,I absolutely trust it (and myself) at distances up to 15 yards. I've only had it for over a month and during that time my accuracy has increased dramatically (I've gone through about 200 rounds with it during that time).
 
No problems with the accuracy of my 642. In fact, I use it for LEOSA quals and never a doubt re: my scores.

Be safe.
 
Don't give up on that 642. I dry fired mine quite a lot to smooth out the trigger. It has the CT Grips. I took it to the range for the first time last week to try it out. Here's a pic of the group at 30' shooting Fed. Hydra Shock, 129gr. +P ammo. The spread is 1.75" CTC on a 4" bull. I only shot one cylinder of the Hydra Shocks because of the cost. Maybe I could tweak the laser sight a little more but I was satisfied and didn't want to waste the ammo (translate to: I'm cheap).

2zgrp6u.jpg
 
It takes concerted effort to learn to shoot double action well. It also takes a lot of effort to shoot a snubbie well. When you combine the two, you really, really have to work at it to get pretty good.

Many years ago I decided that I would get to be decent at shooting a revolver double-action. It took a lot of dry firing (make sure that the gun is empty and point it in a safe direction). It took a lot of range time too. I'll never regret taking the time and making the effort to do so however.
 
I would recommend gettng your wife some wad cutters for practice. The 100gr, double end ones have almost no recoil. I always have a case on hand for my wife. I may add they last her a long time but she never complains about shooting them.
 
I shoot mine with a CT laser. Perfect at 20 feet. That is what I have it sighted in at.
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I also changed the springs. Put in wolffs easy trigger pull.
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You CAN learn to shoot the snubbie "J" frame quite well. Amazingly well, in fact. After I stuck mine on the Ransom Rest, many years ago, I realized that "I" was the problem, not the gun.

Here's the task;
1 - Very light piece
2 - Very short sight radius
3 - Relatively heavy trigger pull vs weight

4 - However, lack of accuracy is NOT the problem.

They ARE more difficult to shoot but they are far from impossible.

Since I have ALWAYS cast my own bullets and reloaded, I have never been "starved" for ammunition. Try shooting twenty serious shots, three times a week. Start fairly close and as you improve keep moving the target out until you are at 25 yards.

You can learn to shoot a snubbie good enough for use as a trail gun when bird and rabbit hunting for those sitting rabbits. You WILL have a slightly lower percentage than a longer barreled revolver, but surprisingly close in percentage. If you get a couple of rabbits your chest will "puff up" and that's not a bad thing.

If you can do that from time to time, your confidence level will be raised a LOT.

Good luck in your travels to a successful result.

Dale53
 
Mine is accurate off bags at 30'. Because the rear sight is just a channel, if you use a conventional sight picture; the gun will shoot about 2" low at 30'. Not a real problem.
It is a close quarters defense pistol, not a target gun. Figure on a maximum of 30' and you should be able to build confidence.
 
Here are my recommendations:

1. Get a quality trigger job done on the gun. Either S&W or some other reputable gunsmith can do wonders on the 642. It will make a BIG difference.

2. Paint the sights.

3. Use a "three finger" grip. The Uncle Mike's three finger combat rubber grips will help a bunch!

3. Shoot wadcutters. Once you master the lighter loads, move up to the +P's.

4. Use photorealistic or silhouette targets at the range. The 642 is not a target gun and trying to shoot tight bullseye groups will just frustrate. It can be done (I can shoot a 6-8" group at 25 yards with my EDC 642) but that's not the point of these guns.

5. Don't forget to just have a some fun! I like to point shoot my 642 at the three yard line. Fast doubles from the hip are a blast to shoot and not that difficult after some time with the gun.
 
Originally posted by andyo5:Because the rear sight is just a channel, if you use a conventional sight picture; the gun will shoot about 2" low at 30'.

I don't understand Andy? The 642 uses a standard sight picture. I can imagine if you put the top of the front sight to the bottom of the rear sight cut, the gun would shoot low.
 
Hi:
Consider using "Standard Velocity" ammo.
Both my Wife and Daughter use Model 642s.
Theirs have "Barami Grips" and the Front Sights are painted "Hobby Shop Bright Orange".
The actions are like they came from the Factory..
They do quite well within defense ranges.
Jimmy
 
Shoot some at paper to understand your grouping. However, also shoot at "fun" targets that help keep your mind off the recoil.
When I shoot at steel "cowboy" targets, the pistol is a lot more fun to shoot.
 
Shooting slow Single Action with my J frames I
can roll coffee cans out to a really silly distance.
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Of course the cans don't shoot back
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For me, the Smith 386PD seems to be the best of both worlds. I have seven rounds of any ,357, light weight. It is comfortable and is easy to carry. It is becoming an almost a constant companion. When it is not, there is the 642, a colt pony pocketlight or a S%W CS.45. I'm a happy guy. Also a Glock M -39 turns up occasionally

you will find yours

regards,

yashua
 
Many years ago when my eyes were younger, I could hit a 12" x 20" steel plate at 80 yds, 4 shots out of 5 from a Model 38. Wish i could still do it.
 
All previous posts have good info. My 642 w/CT grips is snappy with the +P's.

I practice the 642 wearing weightlifting gloves which provide just enough padding in the palm area. These gloves (available @ Wal-Mart $10)have the bottom half of the fingers open for good grip control.
 
Dry fire the heck out of it! ...and I placed lighter springs in mine and had a trigger job done. (big difference) The trigger is rather stiff for such a light weapon and it takes prctice. Most people pull to the side in anticipation of the recoil, and I caught myself doing it at first too. I also used TESTORS white model paint to help these old eyes with the short site distance. Practice!!
 
I got me a trigger kit from Wolff Gun Springs and bought a 642 pistol pack and changed to the lighter springs. Then put a pair if of C/T grips #405 with the extra padding on the back of the grip and got her a pair of shooting gloves with the gel pad between the thumb and finger. Now she's a dead eye dick with it. The lighter hammer spring was easy to install and really made a difference in trigger pull. Then I changed the trigger rebound spring from a factory 18 lb. spring to a 13 lb. spring. Makes a world of difference with smother & lighter trigger pull without sending to a gunsmith and paying lots more.

Wolff Gun Springs

SHOOTER'S PAK - Reduced Power
This pak contains 1 each 8 pound reduced power hammer spring and 1 each 13, 14 and 15 pound reduced power rebound springs allowing adjustment for lighter and smoother trigger and hammer action. Note: Models 317, 650, 651 have a 12 Lb. factory hammer spring.
Stock No. 17125.....$ 9.00 ea

Trigger rebound springs are common to all Smith & Wesson J, K, L and N frame revolvers. These springs greatly influence the double action trigger pull which is a major concern of competitive shooters. W.C. Wolff company offers reduced power rebound springs rated from 12 to 16 pounds. For reference, the factory rebound spring is 18 pounds. These springs lighten trigger and let-off functions for smoother and easier trigger pull. We offer these springs in several assortment paks as well as individually.
 
Originally posted by ENH:
I have several including the light weights and they all shoot well out to 25 yards and beyond. The key is practice and trigger control. I have a 317 2" and that little .22 has helped my double action shooting more than anything. Don't give up, most likely it is not the gun.

I have 5 J-Frames and one of them is always the "duty" EDC. The 317 is the secret. I use one as a trainer and fire at least 3 times a week.
Reality Checks:

1. J Frames are best at 25', you are not going to do any 15 or 25 yard shooting with the little guys.

2. Most SD shootings are under <25'.

3. J-Frame carriers are into Self Defense not Combat Shooting.

4. A good group is anything in the COM. 2" groups are not at all necessary.

See trainer below:

20808EAF6B154864B812F531503188C8-500.jpg
 
This has been posted before but I thought it might be good for this thread because there is a segment at about 1:10 in the Jerry Miculek video Revolver Grip illustrating grip on a 642. A text with photos version is here.
 
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