All In One Gun Cleaners (Newbie Question)

[s1mp13m4n]

Hello everyone. When it comes to gun cleaning, I have only used two brands. I am only use to the traditional way with solvent and gun oil. I have only used Hoppes number 9 or the Outer kits. Sure they work fine, but I wonder if there is a better way. I am interested in products such as Breakfree CLP and Ballistol. I like the idea of a do it all product. To me, I think that the traditional solvents stink. I want something that does not have that strong smell to it. I do not have a dirty revolver. Meaning that I shoot and clean the gun soon after. Therefor I do not have a very dirty gun and was thinking a CLP type product might serve me well. What are your thoughts on an all in one product?

 

[chief38]

IMHO Hoppes is the BEST CLEANER for it's sole intended purpose (not a good lube or rust inhibitor IMO). I too prefer not to have to clean off the Hoppes solvent thoroughly and add another chemical to lube & protect. Like you, I never let my guns get really dirty and clean them after each shooting session. For the last 40 years I have been using Rig #2 Oil (spray can) which is a CLP, does a great job at cleaning, lubrication and rust prevention. The carrier evaporates leaving a film of protection behind and is thin so it will not attract debris inside the Revolvers (or any gun for that matter) The only times I use something else is on certain Auto Loaders where I want a thicker lube on the rails, so I use Breakfree CLP after the guns are cleaned and Rig #2 blown off with compressed dry air.

Been using the Rig 40+ years and have never had any issues at all! Use to be available in 4.5 ounce cans but now only available in the aerosol cans. Still works just as well. All in one cleaners are great if maintenance is not neglected. For a heavy duty thorough cleaning, the original version of Hoppes is unbeatable IMHO and when I do encounter a really neglected firearm, that is what I use - at least for the first time.

 

[Farmer17]

I clean my guns after every shooting not because I worry about them being dirty but to get the sweat and finger prints off so they wont rust. I usually have a spray can of Remington shot gun cleaner or I just use some WD-40 that's always handy. I blow the crud off and run a brush through the bore and wipe off the excess then spray the gun with Remoil.

 

[LoboGunLeather]

I clean my guns after every shooting not because I worry about them being dirty but to get the sweat and finger prints off so they wont rust. I usually have a spray can of Remington shot gun cleaner or I just use some WD-40 that's always handy. I blow the crud off and run a brush through the bore and wipe off the excess then spray the gun with Remoil.

I suggest caution with WD-40 or any other penetrating oil for firearms use. These have been proven to penetrate into cartridge primers, thus producing dud ammunition, and this can be more of a problem with firearms that have been regularly treated with WD-40.

I will repeat what I have said many times over the years:

There is no better authority on products for cleaning, lubricating, and preserving firearms than the US Department of Defense, which has done decades of research and development for use in all climate and weather conditions. Military surplus bore cleaner and lubricants are readily available (on-line, at gun shows, etc) at very low prices, and these are the best products available for these purposes. At least 20 years ago I purchased a case of 24 quart cans of military bore cleaner at a gun show for $20, and I am still using those (I think I am now on my third can). Other products I have picked up have included LSA (lubricant, small arms) in 4-oz squeeze bottles for about $1 each and individual-issue 2-oz. bottles of CLP for under $1 each (in case lots).

Many of the modern products featured in magazines and web-sites are little more than repackaged products from other industrial uses (solvents, greases, petroleum products). One of the most common ingredients in recent years has been canola oil (same stuff we have in the kitchen cabinet, about $2 per quart) infused with colorants and/or scent agents, then packaged in tiny containers at ridiculous retail prices.

Lots of companies are very good at the advertising, fancy packaging, endorsements from well known sources, etc. Some are very good. Most are relatively expensive (although many users will never notice the difference, purchasing as needed over long periods of time).

The old saying is "you get what you pay for". Sometimes what you are paying for is big advertising and exaggerated claims.

I'll stick with the stuff Uncle Sam researched endlessly and tested under every harsh condition known to exist.

 

[WR Moore]

All in one products are beloved of supply geeks (only have to stock 1 item) and guys who hump the boonies carrying maybe half their body weight in necessary gear. Add the guys who have to try the newest thing. They are not long term substitutes for using the proper product for the proper purpose.

My experience dealing with those who use CLP is (if you don't clean the firearm and just slather on more lube) that it collects powder residues into clumps that can interfere with the operation of mechanical parts. It-and related products-seem OK for lubrication of clean parts, but like all oils can drain off the operating parts. LSA is somewhat thicker and less prone to drain off. Decades ago I was introduced to Dri-Slide as a firearm lubricant and it's my personal choice. It's a dry film lube in an evaporating carrier fluid that doesn't trap and hold stuff like liquids do and doesn't drain off. You might have to buy a case from an industrial lubricant supplier, but it'd be a life time supply and makes great gifts.

Hoppe's is great for cleaning. If left on overnight can actually remove copper fouling quite well.

Lobo Gun Leather is correct: WD-40 is not a lubricant. It does displace water and neutralizes finger oils for preventing rust-good for external wipe downs or removing water if your firearm takes a swim. It also can deactivate primers. Use sparingly.

 

[mauser9]

Stuck with Breakfree CLP and Hoppes for cleaning as I got confused over all the zillion produces out there. I shoot clays often and have found Hoppes and a bore snake work pretty well for barrel cleaning.

 

[delcrossv]

Cautionary Note

Hoppe's, Shooter's Choice and other bore cleaners with Ammonia can damage a nickel finish if left on too long.

If you don't like the smell, Slip 2000 makes an odorless cleaner, but you do have to follow it up with oil.

SLIP 2000 3 PACK : SLIP 2000 3 PACK | Shop Brownells

I've used it, and it's "okay".

I only use CLP as a storage lubricant, not a cleaner.

Edit: WD-40 is a very poor rust preventative. Save it for your squeaky gate hinges but keep it away from your guns.

 

[URIT]

One of the most common ingredients in recent years has been canola oil (same stuff we have in the kitchen cabinet, about $2 per quart) infused with colorants and/or scent agents, then packaged in tiny containers at ridiculous retail prices.

I believe the ingredient is food grade mineral oil. The same product I use to treat my kitchen center island butcher block top and refill my tiny Rem Oil bottle on my gun room worktable.

I like Hoppe#9 for my barrel bore and chamber and heavily fouled areas that a strong toothbrushing and wipe down with mechanic's towels have failed to clean. I lightly oil then wipe off to leave a very thin layer. I also wipe down my pistols with a silicone impregnated rag before storing them in a silicone treated Sack Up for safe storage.

I don't use grease on my Gen3s, but my Walther PPS40 needs a couple of tiny drops of Hurley's Gold to stay in peak condition.

 

[Jim R]

This should answer most any question about gun cleaning products you may want to use. This has a ton of information in it. Very good testing methods.

Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range

 

[vytoland]

I have used "Weapon Shield", for years, on my S&W revolvers, with excellent results.....

 

[ericrlarson]

You will probably get 400 or so opinions on this topic. And none will be exactly the same. Take that for what it’s worth.


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[brjr51]

Well I’ve got a cabinet full of “stuff” but I’ve become a big fan of Hoppe’s Elite. Hoppe's 9 - The Gun Care People I can get kinda anal with my stainless revolvers and this stuff along with a light brass brushing removes the powder marks on the cylinder like nothing I’ve used before. Doesn’t smell and has really cut down on the cleaning time. I know you asked for a do-all product, but I then give them a liberal wipe down with Strike-Hold. Strike Hold, best metal lubricant, gun cleaner, dry lubicant, rust inhibitor – StrikeHold

 

[rockquarry]

Hoppe's #9, Ed's Red, or something similar for cleaning. Hoppe's and Ed's Red will do no harm to any finish, including nickel, if used for cleaning only. Don't soak. A CLP product or Ballistol may work for cleaning if a true solvent isn't available, but neither would be my first choice. For a protective coat after cleaning, any gun oil, light machine oil, CLP, Ballistol, etc. is fine.

Years ago, when gun writer and benchrest shooter Warren Page was asked about his favorite gun cleaning product, his reply was "whatever's free!" That probably sums it up fairly well. Lots of snake oil out there.

Copper remover/ solvents (really only necessary for rifle bores) are something entirely different than regular cleaners.

 

[Salty RI]

Use Hoopes #9 and she will like it too. [emoji1]

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