Dragon88
Member
Believe me that's not nearly as impressive as you intended it to be. I've known several military "gunsmiths".
almost new M&P 15 Sport jamming
- Thread starter smlake
- Start date
Believe me that's not nearly as impressive as you intended it to be. I've known several military "gunsmiths".
SSgt M
Member
Chapter 5
Pg. 56 (5-12)
Step 3.
Figure 17
Lots of good info for all of us. this is a joint pub.
http://www.google.com/m/url?client=...MQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNHOkZG-vzPvxDUoXVCfcm2skFa5cA
Pg. 56 (5-12)
Step 3.
Figure 17
Lots of good info for all of us. this is a joint pub.
http://www.google.com/m/url?client=...MQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNHOkZG-vzPvxDUoXVCfcm2skFa5cA
Last edited:
SSgt M
Member
Dragon, please don't act as if were on m4carbine.
I posted the spelling for non mil types who are reading.
It was not ment to say or show anything more than what it is.
I posted the spelling for non mil types who are reading.
It was not ment to say or show anything more than what it is.
crracer_712
Member
What's all the fuss? It's a sport, it's not a real AR, of course it's going to jamb!
crracer_712
Member
J/K, I just wanted to post that for the dramatic effect that I was thinking it would have
SSgt M
Member
Exactly, it ain't worth the paper the money you paid for it was printed on
JaPes
Member
I still think the cause of the jams is insufficient lubrication of the BCG.
This indicates to me that the OP ran the Sport on the dry side.
This indicates to me that the OP ran the Sport on the dry side.
rojodiablo
Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2011
- Messages
- 1,759
- Reaction score
- 1,190
One big thing people miss is initial prep before shooting-
Did you strip and degrease/ clean the rifle before shooting it? Rifles come in a variety of conditions, from packed in grease, to lubed to death, to dry as a sand box, to just right.
Disassemble the bolt assembly, lube the bolt with 2 drops on the wear surface, and 2 drops on the gas rings themselves. Lube the cam pin with a drop or 2 of oil. Oil the glide surfaces, they are the flat slides on the bottom, and top of the front end of the bolt carrier. Oil the charging handle, a drop or 2 will do.
You really will not need more than this. You oil it in this manner, with the oil of your choice. Mobil 1 is good, I use Tetra and Slip, and sometimes RemOil. No heavy oils, no greases of any kind..... too sticky. Catches too much debris and slows down the action.
Dragon and JaPes are pretty spot on with their point on this. ( I DO stress staggering the rings, but the truth is.... if the rifle works reasonably well, the ring position will not detract from performance. On a really finicky, home-brew gun, it can make a difference.
In the end, lube it and shoot it silly. It needs to break in. Good luck! Paul.
Splittiebus66
Member
Yeah Dragon LMFAO you should have posted this....
Now That is more like it children!!!!!!
I agree with Dragon, it's a waste of time trying to stagger the gas rings, where the gaps are doesn't matter. Heck, in a properly functioning AR you can get by with just one gas ring in an emergency.
And I agree you don't put oil in your magazines. The GI mags have a dry lube coating inside and the PMAGs are slick enough as is. Lube the BCG liberally not the mags.
SSgt M
Member
Ya, I read that whole instruction last night, lots of stuff in there I haven't heard of.
I took the M&P15 Sport shooting again yesterday. All shots were from a concrete benchrest covered with a padded blanket and shooting from sandbags and rest. All ammo was Remington UMC 55 gr factory cartridges purchased from Walmart. The bolt was liberally sprayed with Breakfree CLP and the inside of the receiver was liberally wiped with the CLP. Here is my firing procedure. I place a live round in the chamber and close the action by depressing the bolt catch, the bolt "slams home" (safety on). No one else is at the range- I had it to myself yesterday. Next, I load 3-5 rounds in one of the pmags or bushmaster mags that came with the rifle. Then pushing the safety off, the rifle fires perfecly, and a new round usually cycles perfectly from the magazine as the case is ejected. This works about 90% of the time. The other 10% of the time the spent case ejects but a new round does not go completely into the chamber. I will have to then vigorously pull back on the charging handle, often tapping the other side of the charging handle with a no-mar hammer or the end of a gunsmith screwdrive, to remove the cartridge. However if I modify the loading procedure, the gun jams almost every time. Here is how it almost always jams: if I lock the charge handle back, put 3-5 rounds in a magazine, NOT place a round in the chamber, insert the loaded magazine in the lower receiver, then release the bolt catch, the bolt then goes forward, catches the live found from the magazine, and then the jam occurs, almost everytime. I then have to clear the jam by first removing the magazine. Next the jam will have to be cleared by vigorously pulling/jerking on the charging handle, and often having to rap the other side of the charging handle with the no-mar hammer or the end of gunsmith screwdriver to free up the bolt and remove the live round. This live round never gets into the chamber. The case of the removed live round will usually get dented. I have only used the Remington ammo since I cannot find anything else except Tula, and I have serious doubts about that ammo.
I did look for problems with the gas system but that appears fine. Thanks in advance for tips.
I did look for problems with the gas system but that appears fine. Thanks in advance for tips.
crracer_712
Member
Someone put too heavy a buffer in it?
JaPes
Member
At this point, I'd call S&W and send it in for warranty diagnostic and repair.
One quick observation....this is the second person this week with a posting using Remington Ammo? Different Rifles, different situations...Same Remington Ammo....It is not available where I am at and I have never used it BUT it is coincidental!!!
Also I am getting under an inch @ 200 and large cloverleafs @ 100 and ragged one holes @ 50...using federal xm193 5.56x45 YMMV
Also I am getting under an inch @ 200 and large cloverleafs @ 100 and ragged one holes @ 50...using federal xm193 5.56x45 YMMV
Last edited:
I don't want to cause a argument but here is the reply from smith and wesson.
"The optimum configuration is for non-alignment as the gas is forced in one direction creating greater pressure and velocity.
Aligned the gas will have less pressure and velocity as it will take the path of least resistance.
Have Good Day
Michael"
This note is a follow-up to my original post about jamming problems with my new Sport. After several more tries following ideas here regarding ammo, cleaning and oiling, my Sport continued to jam. It would not strip a round from a magazine (tried 8 different brands) and insert it into the chamber. To get this gun to fire I first placed a round in the chamber by hand, then released the bolt stop. Then I inserted the loaded magazine. Next, I would fire the round in the chamber. Given these above steps the rifle would then strip a round from the magazine and then into the chamber about about 75% of the time. However, this above procedure is not advised in the owners manual. The method advised in the owners manual is to first pull back the charging handle, push in the bolt stop, then insert the loaded magazine, then release the bolt stop allowing the bolt to move forward stripping the top round from the magazine and inserting it into the chamber. When I follow this method in the manual my gun would jam almost every time with any brand ammo and with any magazine. I also had this gun discharge (only one time) when the gun was "on safe", when I inserted a cartridge into the chamber and then released the bolt stop, thus allowing the bolt to slam forward. This gun has been sent back to S&W for repair. I am not a happy camper. I expected better quality control.
Similar threads
- Locked
