An Oil & Filter Thread

[Ruger Nut]

What name brand oil & oil filters do you use.
Do you change it yourself or have a lube place do it?
I am currently using Castrol GTX SynBlend 5W20 and a Motorcraft FL-400s oil filter, changed by myself.

 

[puckforbrains]

Pennzoil only for me.

 

[Hillbilly77]

Castrol GTX High Mileage blend & AC Delco filter.
I do it myself. I can't tolerate the thought of paying for something I can do myself.

 

[ejeli]

We aren't allowed silencers in VT but I think any brand would work. Sorry the devil made me do it.
e.

 

[ladder13]

Wix filters + Mobil 1

 

[HAWKEYE10]

I use to change oil myself but now I am just to old to get down there and do it myself. It doesn't cost that much because we only drive about 10,000 miles a year and that includes the car and truck. Don

 

[Sprefix]

I use Royal Purple and a K&N oil filter and take it to the dealer as they charge $11.95 to do the change if you bring your own. They also check and/or top off the other fluids within reason. My vehicle is performance based, so it gets the better stuff. I live in a very cold climate (part of the year), so synthetic fluids are a must in the tranny, diffs, t-case, and anywhere else synthetic can be used. There is a notable difference in the ease of movemnet of the truck at -20 to -25 degrees with the synthetic versus standard grease/oil.

 

[mkk41]

Though I doubt there's a big diff in the top oil brands (Castrol , Kendall , Valvoline , Pennzoil/Quaker State) , I take my '95 Silverado (good ol' iron small-block 350 w/140k) thru a local Pennzoil Quick-Lube every 2500-3000mi , about twice a year. 5qts 10w-30 and a new filter , other fluids & tires checked & topped off , 20min and $28* and I'm on my way. It's vet owned & operated and fellow vets get *$3.00 off , so it's $25 for me.
Been going there about 10yrs now. Don't even have to get out. I'm too fat & lazy to crawl under this thing anymore. And ever since GM put the front differential on the Ford side , right under the filter , removing it just makes a mess.

I do my motorcycles myself of course. Genuine H-D oil and filters.

And yes , having rebuilt scores of Harley engines , and sending different motorcycle oils out for analysis , H-D oil is the best!

Oil rated for AIR-COOLED motorcycle engines contains additives the EPA will not certify or allow for water-cooled passenger car engines. On a hot day , cylinder head temp on a Harley can hit 300' in traffic.

Another local mechanic who has been building race winning short track small-block motors for years would swear by H-D oil (prior to synthetics) and showed me why. He tore down motors run with conventional 20-50 racing oil and his motors run with H-D 50wt. The bearing shells run with the Harley oil looked good enough to run again.

 

[therevjay]

I change my own oil every 3000mi. Any major brand oil with the API certification, wt. as reccomended in owners manual (10w-30 car 5w-20 PU). Any premium major brand filter.

 

[Ruger Nut]

HEADS UP;
WM has a $5 off coupon on Pennzoil Platinum 5qt. containers ($19.97 after coupon) or 5 individual qts.
I'm picking some up this Friday.

 

[Big Fred]

Castrol Syntech with the best Fram filter in the cars and suburban. We run the cars well over 200k before we let them go. Last car I sold had 240k and the next owner ran it 3 more years and took it over 300k before the tranny gave up.

I also run synthetic gear oil in the differentials


Rotella T6 full synthetic in the tractor, four wheelers, and generator.

I mostly change it myself unless the change comes at inspection time and then my mechanic changes it while doing the inspection with my oil and filter.

 

[cougar14]

5/20 vs. 10/30

I understand the auto makers use these ultra-light oils to achieve just a smidgen more mileage for their CAFE numbers. As soon as my '04 F250 went off warranty, I switched to 10/30 for the added protection. I can live with fractionally less mileage.

 

[Ruger Nut]

I understand the auto makers use these ultra-light oils to achieve just a smidgen more mileage for their CAFE numbers. As soon as my '04 F250 went off warranty, I switched to 10/30 for the added protection. I can live with fractionally less mileage.

When my F150 went off warranty I experimented with a few different weights (and filters), 10W30 being one. I found that ANY API oil will work just fine. I have Castrol in it now because I bought it on sale and had coupons.
As far as the 5W20, I figured if Ford spent billions of dollars on research who am I to doubt their findings.
MC oil filters are the ONLY filters that don't cause engine rattle upon startup on my engine.
When I used to build engines I would use Purolator filters exclusively.

 

[timn8er]

I use Castrol Full synthetic & a Wix Gold filter from Napa.
I used to always change it myself, but my present health
forbids it. In the crotch rocket I used a genuine Honda
filter & Honda Pro Semi-Synthetic. Haven't rode it in a
while, but I'm hoping to get it back on the road this spring.

 

[laskt9]

Ac delco metal core filter and valvoline oil in my bonne.

Whatever is cheapest in the trucks.

Only mobile one and Napa gold filters for the 4e

Sent from my HTC PH39100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[WuzzFuzz]

I too change my oil/filter, do the grease job, and re-pack the wheel bearings each year. Lots of other preventive maint too.

It's too late this year for you...but next fall, those of you that change your own oil...Keep the drained oil. Put it in one of those weed sprayers, while you're under the car or truck,, spray the underside with the used oil. That oil will get into the nooks and crannies and helps prevent rust. Especially for those in the RUST BELT states.

Yes it will collect the dust. But come spring time, if you go thru one of those car washes that sprays underneath, it will wash it pretty much all away. Too be sure, some will wash away during the winter months as you go thru snow and rain this spring.

Been doing that every since the ole farm days. Time to trade in my ole 06 F250 with 182,000 miles...but it don't have any rust...Zip..Nada..Zero...

\
I'm a fan of WIX filters and Quaker State oil.


WuzzFuzz

 

[RonJ]

Since I bought my first car in 1969 I haven't been loyal to any brand of oil or filter. As long as it is a brand name I'm happy. Never had an oil related problem. Oil is oil.

 

[Ruger Nut]

I too change my oil/filter, do the grease job, and re-pack the wheel bearings each year. Lots of other preventive maint too.

It's too late this year for you...but next fall, those of you that change your own oil...Keep the drained oil. Put it in one of those weed sprayers, while you're under the car or truck,, spray the underside with the used oil. That oil will get into the nooks and crannies and helps prevent rust. Especially for those in the RUST BELT states.

Yes it will collect the dust. But come spring time, if you go thru one of those car washes that sprays underneath, it will wash it pretty much all away. Too be sure, some will wash away during the winter months as you go thru snow and rain this spring.

Been doing that every since the ole farm days. Time to trade in my ole 06 F250 with 182,000 miles...but it don't have any rust...Zip..Nada..Zero...

\
I'm a fan of WIX filters and Quaker State oil.


WuzzFuzz

WF,I use WD-40 under my truck. I have been doing this for years.

 

[WuzzFuzz]

Roger,

The WD-40 will work...Roundy Round drivers in the mud use it on their tires, on the wings and front ends, to keep the dirt from sticking. But it comes in gal jugs. But for spraying under neath...I'm cheap....I use ole used oil.


WuzzFuzz

 

[158Grain]

Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic and Mobil 1 filters. Change every 7k miles, but I could probably run almost 10k. I do all my own work on my vehicles.

 

[Dmaxboy08]

I use a factory ac delco filter and rotella 10w-40 engine oil(diesel engine)
On a side note, the reason why car companies are using lighter weight oil is because of the tolerances inside the engine. The tolerance of the rod bearings(space between bearing and journal on crank), main bearings, oil pump, and the oil ring on the pistons are so much smaller that lighter weight is required. The biggest reason is for cold climate. People who live in a warm climate arnt really effected but when it gets cold and the oil starts to get thick, its much harder for the oil pump to do its job and can cause excessive wear on said parts.

 

[Maximumbob54]

Fram Extra Guard filter with whatever is on sale every 3K miles.

 

[Skootertrash]

Mobil 1 5w20 with anything but a Fram filter in the truck. Mobil 1 15w-50 or 20w-50 v-twin and HD filter in the bikes. Mobil 1 10w-30 with a JD filter in the mower.

 

[Ruger Nut]

Roger,

The WD-40 will work...Roundy Round drivers in the mud use it on their tires, on the wings and front ends, to keep the dirt from sticking. But it comes in gal jugs. But for spraying under neath...I'm cheap....I use ole used oil.


WuzzFuzz

My cousin buys it by the drum for his farm business so I get it from him. But next time I think I will mix a bit of used motor oil with the WD-40 and see how that works.

 

[jframe]

All Motorcraft parts of any kind on my 2005 Mustang GT, and my 2006 Ranger 4 cylinder. I'm an old Ford parts man; habits are hard to break, and the insurance is cheap.

 

[Maddog 521]

I use Amsoil oil and filters on everything we have. I change it myself. Amsoil works great on firearms also.

 

[WuzzFuzz]

AND...while you're at it...If you're going to do the underside with WD...If you've got some of those Purdy Aluminum wheels., spray some on those too...Helps kept the corrosion off. Salt is terrible on aluminum. You can either leave it on, or use a old T shirt and wipe it off. It will still leave a film for protection.

Also for you other airplane drivers....WD-40 makes for a poor mans anti-ice preventer...It's good for getting up and thru the freezing layer, or coming back down thru the freeze layer. I used to spray the leading edges of the wings, and the prop. It would work to either get me on top, or down thru....If the freeze was medium to heavy though it will wash off if you're in the soup for very long. But it was a way to cheat, without having any de-icing equipment. (Anti-freeze will work to de-ice, but it's hard on the paint..Better to use type I for de-icing)


WuzzFuzz

 

[WuzzFuzz]

Boy, we need a whole thread dedicated to tricks of the trade about maint and preventive maint on our vehicles...

Got to keep them in shape to get us to the gun shows or to our LGSs.


WuzzFuzz

 

[Ruger Nut]

I use a factory ac delco filter and rotella 10w-40 engine oil(diesel engine)
On a side note, the reason why car companies are using lighter weight oil is because of the tolerances inside the engine. The tolerance of the rod bearings(space between bearing and journal on crank), main bearings, oil pump, and the oil ring on the pistons are so much smaller that lighter weight is required. The biggest reason is for cold climate. People who live in a warm climate arnt really effected but when it gets cold and the oil starts to get thick, its much harder for the oil pump to do its job and can cause excessive wear on said parts.

I have to disagree with you just a bit here. The REAL reason behind going to 5W20 (thinner) oils was for CAFE reasons, thanks to the government (EPA).
Corporate Average Fuel Economy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
How Automakers Will Meet 2016 CAFE Standards - Feature - Car and Driver

 

[Stevie]

I understand the auto makers use these ultra-light oils to achieve just a smidgen more mileage for their CAFE numbers. As soon as my '04 F250 went off warranty, I switched to 10/30 for the added protection. I can live with fractionally less mileage.

They build the engines tight these days...of better metalurgy than in older days...generaly with roller-cams most engines.

This is why most engines use like 5-30W or 5-20W oil...10-30W oil can be hard on roller lifters/cams in extreme cold..not to mention the proper oil viscosity saving some fuel.

The wrong viscosity oil adds no protection.

Another thing to watch for with older sliding lifter cam engines is oil of the most recent standards has the zinc/phosphorous additives removed...this oil ain't for the old engines or diesels..these need the high wear protection provided by the diesel rated oils

Personaly..I run several types/brands of oil depending on machine...some get 10-30 diesel oil..some get synthetic...some get regular oil. I have my brands for each and some ain't cheap!..(Royal Purple not cheap)...but really any brand-name oil should be quality stuff.