annealing brass question

[growr]

There seems to be two main methods of doing so....dipping casings in molten lead and the other is using propane torches and a drill with a deep well socket to rotate the casing in the fame of the torch....

Both seem easy enough, which do you prefer?

Am annealing 30-30 brass so that it can be formed into 219 Zipper....no 25-25 casings around for this task.

Randy

 

[rockquarry]

There seems to be two main methods of doing so....dipping casings in molten lead and the other is using propane torches and a drill with a deep well socket to rotate the casing in the fame of the torch....

Both seem easy enough, which do you prefer?

Am annealing 30-30 brass so that it can be formed into 219 Zipper....no 25-25 casings around for this task.

Randy

Formed .219 Zipper cases are the only ones I ever annealed. I used the propane torch method with the cases standing in water. Seems I rotated the cases with my fingers, but I haven't done this in twenty years or so and don't remember for sure. Never used a drill.

As I recall, the annealed cases lasted longer than the unannealed ones, but I never did get good case life from any of the brass, though I think .25-35 cases outlasted .30-30 brass. I've never annealed any other rifle brass and haven't seen a need to. When cases are worn, I buy new ones.

 

[TIMETRIPPER]

Haven't tried the molten lead dip, but I have had good results with rotating in a propane flame.
TBH, I've seen as many 219 zipper cases as I have 25-35, which is next to none.
30-30, OTOH, is plentiful, so failed cases isn't an issue. Good luck!

John

 

[DWalt]

I have always stood up deprimed empties in a water bath and use a propane torch flame. No need to get the case necks red hot or tip them over into the water. Just hit each case neck with the flame for 2-3 seconds.

The factory method is rolling the case necks through a gas flame and letting them air cool.

 

[diyj98]

I did some years ago with just a torch and pan of water, but haven't done it in years. I really never found the need to. Like rockquarry, I just buy new cases as needed.

 

[TAROMAN]

Figured out my own process:
I took a piece of 1/2" steel bar and bored a hole slightly larger than the case neck through. Then heat it to just short of glowing with my oxy-fuel torch. Drop the case neck into the heated hole. Watch for the color to creep to the shoulder, pull the case and drop into water. Repeat, reheating the bar as necessary.

 

[ameridaddy]

I bought an Annealeze case annealer a few years ago and love it. It's safe, fast and consistent once you spend a little time with a handful of test cases to set it up.

 

[Alk8944]

If you are working with new .30-30 brass it is best to form the cases in the sizing die first, then anneal if you feel it is necessary. In reality it should not be needed for one step of sizing, only after loading and firing a few times!

 

[rwsmith]

I rotate in a propane flame....

...but I do it by hand. I hold the case by the base and when it gets too hot to hold it goes in the quench. I might use gloves for smaller cases.

 

[2152hq]

All you need to do is stress relieve the brass from being worked back and forth from firing and resizing/reloading.

No need to go to a red-hot glow. That will soften them for sure at around 1000F. They will be dead soft which is what annealing is.
They may be too soft actually and may collapse in some instances when sizing, seating or crimping.

A temp around 700F is all that's needed. Stress relieved so it won't crack but the brass still has some strength to it for it's intended purpose.
Brass work hardens quickly from bending, hammering, stretching, type use.

It doesn't take much time for a thin walled case mouth & neck to get to that 700F in a propane flame. A couple seconds.
I hold the case by the base with my fingers, twirl it in the flame for a quick 1,2,3 count and then place the case onto the concrete floor of the shop to cool.

I don't use the water quench as it's another step to dry them, but many find it convenient to instantly cool them.
A quench has nothing to do with the softness/hardness of the heated brass.

 

[rockquarry]

I've not seen evidence that in most instances annealing is necessary or beneficial, but there are exceptions to everything. As long as brass life and accuracy are acceptable to the user, I wouldn't be too concerned about annealing, despite it's (fad?) popularity these days. Same for neck tension; do your own testing before buying into such procedures.

 

[gwpercle]

The dipping in molten lead method will prevent you from over-heating as you can do with a propane torch and the Molten Lead method gives consistent results with every case .
Not a bad way to do it .
I have "crispy fried" a few cases with a propane torch because I didn't know what I was doing ... The molten lead method prevents that !
Gary

 

[mtgianni]

I have done both but prefer the torch method. Get a 1/4" deep socket of at least 1/2" diameter and a power screwdriver. Then a 6 hole tool for the screwdriver that adapts to 1/4" drive. The key is watching the metal get to a dull orange and no more color change. I dump into a 5 gallon bucket 1.2 full of water so I don't step on the brass.
If I leave the torch on the bench it only takes a few seconds per cartridge. The turning ensures it is being heated evenly.

 

[2152hq]

The molten lead is good as it is at around 700+/-F . That's what you need to stress relieve the brass crtridge cases.

Going to a red heat will 'anneal' them which is a dead soft state and sometimes too soft for some reloading needs.

I just haven't ever found the time to run the stowed away lead pot for it. So I use the torch& fingers method and keep the temp/down.

Annealing/Stress Relieving the brass doesn't make sense for every caliber. Easy to get brass like a lot of pistol brass I don't do.
But precious stuff like big bore 470, 500 and the odd calibers 25 Rem, 30 Rem, the M/S calibers, the Metrics and the like,,then yes definetly a quick stress relieving after every 5 reloads of so is what I do to retain as much life as possible.

 

[growr]

Update....

I used the molten lead for my annealing project...

got the lead to 700 degrees, using a pair of pliers I grasped the cartridge by the rim, dipped the casing just past the should for an 8 second count and the dropped into a buck of water.

Worked just fine.

Randy

 

[DWalt]

One reason to treat brass by standing unprimed cases in a water bath during the torch treatment of the neck is simply to avoid unnecessary heating of the case body and head. They should remain harder, not softened.