Any 696 vs. 396 NG Thoughts/Observations ?

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All Things Being Equal (and they never are) with the exception of the internal lock...

What would you see as the advantages / disadvantages of these two revolvers?

Are the dimensions of the forcing cones on both the same?

I was told a local Colorado Springs dealer has one for $817. Is that typical for what you've seen in your part of the country?

Any and all replys appreciated!


Regards From Colorado,


Tony
 
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All Things Being Equal (and they never are) with the exception of the internal lock...

What would you see as the advantages / disadvantages of these two revolvers?

Are the dimensions of the forcing cones on both the same?

I was told a local Colorado Springs dealer has one for $817. Is that typical for what you've seen in your part of the country?

Any and all replys appreciated!


Regards From Colorado,


Tony
 
IMHO The biggest advantage of the 396 is the light weight and short barrel which make for very nice carry. I bought mine for a carry gun at camp, when going for walks, riding the four wheeler etc. The gun is almost non existant in a nice belt holster. Price seems a little high, I paid 780.00 for mine and could have had it for 750.00 if I had been willing to wait a little longer.
Jeff
 
I shot both for articles a few years back. I found both accurate, but the 396 was darned uncomfortable to shoot for very long. I could shoot the 696 all day. Wound up not keeping either.
 
Isn't the 396 made of an alloy? If so, I would be concerned about cracking the frame at the 6:00 position where the barrel screws in, like happens on other alloy framed S&Ws. I had a model 37 that cracked. For the sole reason of the higher POSSIBILITY that a 396 would crack there, would make me only consider a 696. But hey, that's me.
 
I read all kinds of stuff on this forum. It simply isn't true that scandium frames crack from firing. A very few have had cracks as a result of overtorquing the barrel. Same thing could happen to a steel frame, and I'm sure has. This kind of damage is usually apparent before the gun is even fired, and will always show up within a few rounds. In truth, it wouldn't surprise me if scandium frames outlast steel. I have several with thousands of rounds through them and no problems whatever.
 
I think the forcing cone issue is a red herring. The guns don't use standard barrels these days, so the barrel isn't "screwed in" to the frame. They use the multi-piece barrel, which is probably stronger than the old style.

Almost all 1 piece barrel 696s have a barrel ring right where they exit the frame. Its not an accuracy issue, or a strength issue.

I've never heard of either gun failing. I agree that the 696 is significantly heavier and more pleasant on extended shooting sessions. Some of that is ammo related, and the hotter the loads become the bigger the difference. Neither is really a target revolver. Both are excellent self defense guns. The 396 carries easier due to its lighter weight.

In typical S&Wforum fashion... I'd suggest buying both!
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Thanks Dick...

Knew I could count on you being the voice of reason in this discussion lol.

Do appreciate your thoughts concerning the forcing cone though. Do you, or anyone else, know if given the 1/2" difference in bbl length, if the ejector rod length is different between the two? Hard to judge just from pixs.


Tony
 
Am another fan of the short 44 specials. Winchester1-appreciate you relaying the info on the 396 reliability that ya had been waiting on. Do have couple more questions for any any 396 NG owners.

What bullet weight are th sights regulated for?
Any problems with what appears to be a shorter ejection stroke?
What distributor has em for the cheaper prices?

thanks
 
zeke,
I have brass ordered to load, but for now I'm running through remington 246 grain lead round nose factory ammo (more brass to load!). This load prints right at point of aim at 25 yards. Steel plates at 50 are relativly easy as well. This load seems rather anemic but I have not chronographed it to verify this. I will probably have to work with my handloads to get them to print at point of aim, but the factories were right on. The ejector stroke has not been an issue.
Jeff
 
I like a full length ejector rod. I have found that it makes a difference enough of the time to make that a factor. I would go with the 696 no dash if possible. If not possible, the NG 396 is a good second choice.
 
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