Any downside in using .38 Lead Round Nose?

byf42

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Hello fellow S&W fans. I've now fired 5 boxes of LRN .38 through my new 686-3. This ammo doesn't seem to dirty the barrel much (at first I were nervous of this, always used FMJ before). I'm going to buy 5 boxes more LRN only a different brand to try that as well.

However I'm curious to hear what others think of LRN ammo? Are there any downsides to it? Should I be afraid of lead buildup in the barrel if I use LRN long term?
 
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Great question, especially during these crazy market frenzied times.

R
 
I shoot nothing but lead in my 686-6, 14-3 and 27-2 in both .38 & 357. All three exhibit very little leading with both LRN and LSWC boolits.

Shoot away!
 
You may find the RNL shoots to point of aim and is very accurate as well. Great for targets, not for self defense. I shoot a lot of lead and find the RNL an easy bullet to load with.
 
My only advice is if you do A LOT of shooting - and I mean A LOT - and you shoot at an indoor range, make doubly sure the ventilation is good. LRN, like any lead bullet without a jacket, will give off a little bit of lead poweder when fired. Just make sure you're not standing in a cloud of lead powder an hour a day, three or four days a week! Goes with any bullet, though, but especially with lead.
 
It depends on the hardness of the bullets and the velocity, but fairly hard lead alloy and lower velocities (as with typical RNL .38 Special loads) shouldn't cause major barrel deposits.
 
Lead rnfp is just about all I shoot in .38, .357, .44 spl & mag, .45 acp & LC. Not a problem in the world after 40 plus years of loading and shooting it. I do always clean my guns upon return from range though.
 
Lead rnfp is just about all I shoot in .38, .357, .44 spl & mag, .45 acp & LC. Not a problem in the world after 40 plus years of loading and shooting it. I do always clean my guns upon return from range though.

Exactly. Clean your barrel and there should be no problem. I clean mine military-style, first a bore brush soaked in Hoppes #9, then a bore patch soaked in Hoppes #9, then dry bore patches until they come out clean. Usually only takes 7-8 minutes or something like that.
 
Good stuff.
Seems to me that the older revolvers are especially partial to it.
Almost as if they were made for each other:
m&ptarget.jpg
 
When shooting Specials in the longer Magnum chambers, make sure you clean the chambers thoroughly. The .38 case is, I believe, 1/10" shorter than the .357 case. Brushing may be necessary to remove any accumulation or 'score-ing' after firing .38s in the longer chambers. The standard brass brush will usually suffice, but if the fouling builds up, Brownells makes steel brushes ONLY for chambers, NOT for barrels.
That being said, .38 RNL is a great load, but I've had problems with the CCI Blazer version of this load jamming cylinders. Other brands OK.
 
Thanks for all your comments. It seems I worry without reason. I shoot 50 rounds a weekend and always clean the gun afterwards so I guess I have nothing to worry about. I'm just used to FMJ so I'd rather ask than get a bad surprise later :)
 
Lead is easier on the barrel then copper and a properly sized lead bullet will do very little if any leading if you don't try to over drive them.
 
The PD used to get low bid practice ammo that was dirty & leaded badly... I would wipe down my M66 with BreakFree CLP before firing... inside & out. The Armorer was impressed, the dept was soon buying it in gallons & filling sprayers.
 
It depends on the hardness of the bullets and the velocity, but fairly hard lead alloy and lower velocities (as with typical RNL .38 Special loads) shouldn't cause major barrel deposits.

BINGO! That's the point precisely and before we pooh-pooh the venerable LRN, remember it tamed the streets of America during the gangster era, often from a 2" barrel. Also, steel plate shooting normally requires LRN.
 
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It depends on the hardness of the bullets and the velocity, but fairly hard lead alloy and lower velocities (as with typical RNL .38 Special loads) shouldn't cause major barrel deposits.

Actually, hard lead bullets may lead worse than soft as they don't upset properly to fill the bore completely , resulting in hot gas blow-by, which will result in leading. Most of the factory 158gr LRN ammo uses very soft swaged lead bullets. Have fired cases of the stuff over the years (back when it was cheap) with very little fouling.

The commercial casters like to sell hard lead bullets as it's damaged less in shipping, so it looks better. It's also why they like beveled base projectiles.

Took me a long time to figure out that softer is usually better for medium velocity rounds. Made shooting an entire IHMSA field pistol match without scrubbing the bore possible. (Those 75yd 1/2 size turkeys are particularly unforgiving!)
 
If you get 'leading', the worst thing you'll have to do is get a "Lewis Lead Remover" kit caliber specific for .38/.357M (Brownells). You can quickly and safely remove lead buildup mechanically with the brass mesh included. I use it at the most every 5-10 gun cleanings in firearms/calibers that see 50%+ lead rounds.

I would plink away with abandon with LRN as plinkers. LSWC or lead full wadcutters make nicer holes in paper, however.

Stainz
 
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