Any K Frame .38 Specials to Avoid?

[MX-5]

Hi, all. Apologies if this question has been asked before. At the "Nation's Gun Show" next weekend, I'm hoping to buy a .38 Special K frame, 4" barrel. Are there any models that I should avoid? I'm not talking about an occasional bad experience, but some that, by reputation, were dogs. For example, If I end up going with Model 10 or Model 15, is there a "dash" number that I should avoid? Thanks.

 

[MX-5]

Hi, all. Apologies if this question has been asked before. At the "Nation's Gun Show" next weekend, I'm hoping to buy a .38 Special K frame, 4" barrel. Are there any models that I should avoid? I'm not talking about an occasional bad experience, but some that, by reputation, were dogs. For example, If I end up going with Model 10 or Model 15, is there a "dash" number that I should avoid? Thanks.

 

[bmcgilvray]

I personally won't have a Smith & Wesson with a lock. Other than that I'd say they're all good. Some folks prefer the "pinned" barrel so a pre-1981 revolver with a pinned barrel might be the best choice of all.

 

[prefer_wheelguns]

It's like shopping for a used car, I think. The condition of the one you're looking at is far more important than that particular model's reputation. That said, I've never heard of one or another S&W model having a bad reputation. There may be anecdotal stories saying such-and-such is a lousy gun (for instance, I had a Model 59 and absolutely hated it!), but these are individual preferences and don't establish a pattern.

As to the lock, a lot of people refuse them because of the risk of breakage tying up the gun. Apparently it does happen now and then, usually caused by a broken spring. If I were shopping for a defensive weapon, I wouldn't have the lock for that reason. Ditto, for a gun used in competitive shooting or on an expensive hunting trip. OTOH a lock wouldn't bother me on a gun meant strictly for "fun" shooting.

Some people prefer the pinned barrels; some prefer prewar guns on the theory that the fitters were true craftsmen in those days.

Modulo the lock issue and your intended purpose for the gun, mechanical/cosmetic condition is everything.

 

[Willyboy]

I hope not. I had a 10-5 that really surprised me with its accuracy, so I bought a 15-3 and later traded it for a 15-2. And now I bought a 14 no dash to see how accurate they can shoot with a 6" barrel. I've been pleased with the few that I have had so far.

 

[max]

Don't limit your search to 38 specials, you should also look at the M-19s, 66's, etc.

 

[Sgt 127]

If you plan on shooting it alot, avoid the Model 12 airwieght. If you plan on carrying it alot, seek out a Model 12.

 

[Jack Flash]

Nobody ever went far wrong buying a Model 10.

The thing is, if the best K-Frame you see is an M13, buy that instead. It will fire .357 Magnums as well as .38 Specials. Buy the one that is in the best condition for the best price, is the point.

You might also think about K-Frames with adjustable sights, if that feature appeals to you.

 

[Spotteddog]

What everyone's already said, it's a matter of individual condition of the example.
To me given good condition, I can't recall ever shaking hands with a K frame I didn't enjoy the experience with, in .22 to .357?

 

[Hoot]

MX-5, I'd say anything with a model number is fine. Some of the pre-models may not be a good fit for someone new to S&Ws. Other than that, I don't know of any caveats.

On a personal note, I won't buy one with the internal lock. But that's just me.


Sgt 127, the Model 12 will handle pretty much anything you throw at it. Maybe not competition levels, but I'm guessing from the OP's questions that he's not looking for a comp gun.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/530103904/m/3481091842/p/1

 

[Dog Easy]

MX-5,

Don't fall into that Gun Show loophole while you're there.

Shoot safe and join the NRA. John

 

[user]

I bought a 64-3 recently from Thiokol on this forum, who was a pleasure to deal with, btw, and I love it. Cost to me was $475 to Thiokol, $61 to FedEx, and $20 to local ffl. Worth every penny, gun was in perfect condition.

I recommend getting a .38 revolver if that's what you're actually going to be using in it. Avoid thinking that (1) you could use a .357 someday so you want the flexibility or (2) that it's going to have higher resale value later because of that flexibility. Over time, a cylinder chambered for .357 will lose metal around the end of a .38 cartridge because of the hot gas that's spreading out at that point, resulting in premature wear. So your gun could actually lose value over time, if you really use it for .38's and shoot it a lot. If you don't really want the flash-bang-and-recoil of a .357, don't get a gun chambered for .357. There are commercially available cartridges out there, besides, in .38 special +P which rival the lower end of the .357 world ballistically, anyway.

Originally posted by Paul5388:
Just as a reminder, this is what the current S&W revolver owner's manual (REV:REV071001) says on page 11.

"Plus-P" ammunition should not be used in medium (K frame) revolvers manufactured prior to 1958. Such pre-1958 medium (K-frame) revolvers can be identified by the absence of a model number stamped inside the yoke cut of the frame. (i.e., the area of the frame exposed when the cylinder is in the open position, see Figure 2).

Lots of folks make a religion out of having pinned barrels and recessed cylinders and no internal locks. I have preferences, but don't make a religion of it. A pinned barrel is not going to rotate over time as a screwed-in barrel can, which will throw the front sight out of alignment; a recessed cylinder will contain the pressure better; and the lock cam can be easily removed if you don't like it (though that's a lot harder now on new guns - I believe the factory's quietly solved that problem). Also forged steel parts rather than molded metal parts will hold up to stress better. I've never had any problem with any of that stuff on a S&W revolver of any description (though I've had adventures with a couple of Rugers).

Good luck in your search. That Dulles Center can be such a zoo. Plan to spend Friday afternoon and evening there, at least. Check with Tom Drinkwater, probably on the right in the rear of the hall - he's likely to know who's got what, if he doesn't have what you want himself. He goes by "T & R FIREARMS & SHOOTING SUPPLIES". Big guy, graying hair and beard.

 

[bubbaturbo]

Over time, a cylinder chambered for .357 will lose metal around the end of a .38 cartridge because of the hot gas that's spreading out at that point, resulting in premature wear.

OMG. Not again.

 

[Sgt 127]

Originally posted by Hoot:
Sgt 127, the Model 12 will handle pretty much anything you throw at it. Maybe not competition levels, but I'm guessing from the OP's questions that he's not looking for a comp gun.

I doubt you would wear one out either. But, for me anyway, the steel frame is alot more pleasant to shoot alot of rounds out of, especially if you are shooting +P. If weight is not an issue, I would go for the steel frame.

 

[sceva]

Only badly worn out ones. That is, if you could actually find one that has been worn out.

 

[GF]

As one other poster mentioned, a Mod 12 is not a favortie K frame to shoot. I've never liked airweight guns. I own two but seldom shoot 'em, that's why I don't like 'em.

As has been said, look for a "low mileage" revolver and it would be hard to buy a bad S&W K frame!

 

[Wyatt Earp]

Originally posted by user:
I bought a 64-3 recently from Thiokol on this forum, who was a pleasure to deal with, btw, and I love it. Cost to me was $475 to Thiokol, $61 to FedEx, and $20 to local ffl. Worth every penny, gun was in perfect condition.

I recommend getting a .38 revolver if that's what you're actually going to be using in it. Avoid thinking that (1) you could use a .357 someday so you want the flexibility or (2) that it's going to have higher resale value later because of that flexibility. Over time, a cylinder chambered for .357 will lose metal around the end of a .38 cartridge because of the hot gas that's spreading out at that point, resulting in premature wear. So your gun could actually lose value over time, if you really use it for .38's and shoot it a lot. If you don't really want the flash-bang-and-recoil of a .357, don't get a gun chambered for .357. There are commercially available cartridges out there, besides, in .38 special +P which rival the lower end of the .357 world ballistically, anyway.

Originally posted by Paul5388:
Just as a reminder, this is what the current S&W revolver owner's manual (REV:REV071001) says on page 11.

"Plus-P" ammunition should not be used in medium (K frame) revolvers manufactured prior to 1958. Such pre-1958 medium (K-frame) revolvers can be identified by the absence of a model number stamped inside the yoke cut of the frame. (i.e., the area of the frame exposed when the cylinder is in the open position, see Figure 2).

Lots of folks make a religion out of having pinned barrels and recessed cylinders and no internal locks. I have preferences, but don't make a religion of it. A pinned barrel is not going to rotate over time as a screwed-in barrel can, which will throw the front sight out of alignment; a recessed cylinder will contain the pressure better; and the lock cam can be easily removed if you don't like it (though that's a lot harder now on new guns - I believe the factory's quietly solved that problem). Also forged steel parts rather than molded metal parts will hold up to stress better. I've never had any problem with any of that stuff on a S&W revolver of any description (though I've had adventures with a couple of Rugers).

Good luck in your search. That Dulles Center can be such a zoo. Plan to spend Friday afternoon and evening there, at least. Check with Tom Drinkwater, probably on the right in the rear of the hall - he's likely to know who's got what, if he doesn't have what you want himself. He goes by "T & R FIREARMS & SHOOTING SUPPLIES". Big guy, graying hair and beard.

There are many factual errors in this post. Enough that I would ignore it completely.

 

[carguychris]

Originally posted by sceva:
Only badly worn out ones. That is, if you could actually find one that has been worn out.

On that note, don't be scared away by finish wear. My M10-5 is the ugliest handgun in my safe, but it's also the most accurate and has the best trigger.

 

[user]

Originally posted by Wyatt Earp:
...There are many factual errors in this post. Enough that I would ignore it completely.

I'd be interested to know what they are, and why they're in error. I don't pretend to be the ultimate authority, but I got all of that from people whom I consider pretty authoritative. But I'm always open to learning new and better information, so please enlighten me. By email if you prefer.

 

[walnutred]

Yes, watch out for anything that looks modified. Especially British Victories that may have been rechambered from 38 S&W to 38 Special.

I'm not saying all modification are necessarily bad, but if your just starting out shy away from anything that does not look factory stock.

Look out for screws with damaged slots because that may indicate less than qualified modifications have been made. Factory grips are usually preferred. I think there is a page on what to look for in a used S&W revolver in the FAQ section. I'd print that out and read it a couple times.