Any K Frame .38 Specials to Avoid?

[MX-5]

Hi, all. Thanks for all of your comments. I printed and read each one (I'll take to the show with me). I kept my original question short, but I suppose that I should have put in a bit more detail. I'll try to respond to all points made, and apologize if I've missed any.

I already own an S&W Model 36 (1 7/8" barrell), and used to own a Combat Masterpiece. I also now own a Beretta .380 (84FS) and 9mm (92FS). I've fired many hundreds of rounds of different ammo with the Model 36, but even with Pachmayr grips, I get blisters. So I figured that I would get a K frame. Since I wasn't planning to go moose hunting, I also figured that I didn't need to get a .357. That's why I was leaning towards something like a Model 10 or a Model 15 in .38 Special.

I'm not a fan of gun locks, but I understood that in the blue steel guns there was less of a risk of malfunction. All things being equal, I'd get a gun without a lock. Just on principle.

I never read a bad thing about the Model 10. At the last show I went to, two vendors were selling Model 10s for $300. I think that one was a 10-7, and the other a 10-8. Other than the fact that one was clean and one was dirty, both had good timing, wood grips, and showed little wear. I settled on the clean one (I think it was the 10-7), but the vendor would only take cash which I didn't have. So I didn't buy either. Is a 10-7 "better" than a 10-8? From the comments made, it looks like it doesn't make much of a difference. I'll assume that all Model 10's are worth consideration. But, as mentioned, it's like buying a used car, so I have to be on the look-out for someone who might be trying to take unfair advantage.

Yes, I plan on shooting a lot (I go to the range every weekend if I can). So I agree that an Airweight would not be a good choice, at least not a good choice for me.

I agree that the Model 15s are deadly accurate. I think mine had a four inch barrell. I was astonished how well it shot. Coming from the Model 36 with a 1 7/8" barrell, I'm inclined to move up the ladder gradually, so I probably won't be getting a six inch barrel. Also, I really like the look of the K frames with 4" barrels.

Thanks for mentioning adjustable sights. I wasn't even thinking in that direction. Beyond that, I wasn't looking for anything sophisticated. A "pinned" barrel would be wasted on someone like me. Just a bread and butter, reliable, enjoyable blue steel k frame.

Elsewhere, I asked for comments regarding .38 Special only v. .357 that also fires .38 Special. I know that each side made good arguments. My preference is for simplicity, so I'll probably get one that only fires .38 Special. Ditto on the +P. The regular powered load is enough for me. And since I hope to keep forever, resale value is not an issue for me.

That should about do it for me now. For those interested, the UPS man just returned to me my .380 Beretta. I'll open the box later, and post the results in the Lounge where I started a thread about how this gun fell apart during field stripping. Later.

 

[arfmel]

Always, always take cash money to a gun show.

 

[MX-5]

Hi, arfmel. Yes, always take cash. I have been doing so. Then I went to a gun show a few months ago and ran into a vendor in a McDonald's. "Didn't I see you at the last show," I asked. "Yup," he said. "How's business," I asked. "Terrible," he said. When I visited his table, he had a sign saying that he now took credit cards (he didn't earlier). When I didn't have enough cash to buy a gun from another vendor, the other vendor took my credit card for part payment. So I figured that I wouldn't need all the cash next time. Wrong! I already have on my to-do list emptying my checking account sometime this week. Later.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Originally posted by MX-5:
Hi, all. Apologies if this question has been asked before. At the "Nation's Gun Show" next weekend, I'm hoping to buy a .38 Special K frame, 4" barrel. Are there any models that I should avoid? I'm not talking about an occasional bad experience, but some that, by reputation, were dogs. For example, If I end up going with Model 10 or Model 15, is there a "dash" number that I should avoid? Thanks.

Of course, the K model 38s of all variations were great guns. Whether one should be avoided or not is a matter of the use to which it will be put. For example, I understand that some agency runs of Model 10 have different height front sights if specified for a different load than the 158 grain.

I have never put it next to a micrometer, but have been told by someone I trust that the US Marshal Model 10s were set up for the 110 grain +P+ Treasury Load. Thus, they may shoot to a different point of impact with 158 grain +P LHP loads.

Other than that, I cannot think of any bad ones. It is my personal preference to have at least a 3 inch barrel for self defense in a K frame so you get full length case ejection, but if it is bought for collector purposes or whatever, then even that is not important. That said, I prefer the versions that have the left hand ejector rod threads, and a couple of the later improvements if it is to be a shooter or carry gun.

 

[MX-5]

Hi, Shawn. Thanks. Good points. I think that I read in a magazine somewhere within the past year that different agencies set their .38s up differently, as you mentioned. Also, with the smallish ejector on the Model 36, I've grown accustomed to shaking the gun a bit to dislodge the cases. It'll be a pleasant change not to have to do so with a K frame. Anyway, I made my first visit to the ATM today in preparation for Saturday's purchase. I'm getting kind of impatient, so I may take Friday off to go to the show. Maybe not quite the same as sneaking out to go to a ball game, but just as enjoyable. Thanks again.

 

[KyJim]

Over time, a cylinder chambered for .357 will lose metal around the end of a .38 cartridge because of the hot gas that's spreading out at that point, resulting in premature wear.

I don't want to hijack this thread but I've never heard or seen this before. You can get a build up of residue in the chamber of a .357 using .38s. This can then cause increased pressure when firing .357s. The solution is to clean the chambers out well with a brush.