Anyone try returning peeling stainless revolver to S&W?

[MaxS]

I've been thinking about getting another j frame as a backup and since money is kind of tight, I'm looking at used guns. I see one that is in good mechanical condition but it has the peeling stainless(?) finish. It's an airweight, so perhaps stainless is not the right term.

Anyone ever try returning such a gun to Smith for refinishing?

FYI - I have a 638 that I shoot a lot, always clean it with Breakfree and the finish is still like new.

thanks.

 

[rwsmith]

Are you sure....

Are you sure that you don't mean nickel plated? Plating can peel. Stainless may rust and corrode but it's a pure metal, like aluminum or regular steel and doesn't peel from the gun.

 

[murphydog]

An all-stainless steel gun does not peel; the silver alloy frames have a coating that will, sometimes. Don't know if the factory considers it a defect or will offer to repair it if this happens.

 

[loeman]

I own numerous S&W stainless revolvers and semi-autos. A couple of them date back to the 70s. None have ever shown any sign of "peeling". Seems like something that can't happen. I'd be interested to learn more about this gun. Of course I have seen nickel guns that have "peeled".

 

[Mark IV]

Yeah, the guy's gotta be talking about nickel-plating. I clicked on the thread thinking he may have been mistakenly talking about the clear-coat on the Airweights, which I am wondering about myself.

 

[MaxS]

I guess I misspoke.... it's an airweight revolver. I've seen this before in gunshops and read about it online. Just wondered if anyone had experience talking with Smith about it.

 

[MaxS]

Yeah, the guy's gotta be talking about nickel-plating. I clicked on the thread thinking he may have been mistakenly talking about the clear-coat on the Airweights, which I am wondering about myself.

yep - we're both wondering about the same issue.

 

[Bosquebass]

I had an un-fired 637 that the silver coating peeled on the backstrap just setting in the factory box. The gun sat in the safe for about 8 years and was never fired or carried. Never called Smith because from what I read about it finish issues aren't covered by any warranty. I gave it to my son so now he's happy but I'm out a brand new gun.

 

[Rpg]

I wouldn't be concerned about the finish in a sd pocket revolver, certainly not a used one.

I'd use it as a bargaining chip.

 

[andyo5]

If an airweight, I doubt that nickel was used. On the frame some airweights have clearcoat over aluminum. If that is the case, it can certainly be refinished. But it may add as much to the cost of the gun that it would make more sense to buy new.

 

[JAREDSHS]

I have had several Airweighhts since about 2001---637, 638,642,438,442, some of these I had more than one copy of. Still have the first one-a 637---it peeled---my wife took it and
kept it---wont give it back--won't send it to S&W. I bought a 442-2 last year, the black finish is fine--no problems--the other 438's and previous 442's were fine. ALL of the other 637's ,638's and 642's completely peeled off. I have read on these forums where folks have sent their 6xx airweight back to S&W for re-coating, but cannot verify that this actually happened. All I can swear too is that everyone of several 6xx models that I have owned have peeled.

 

[THE PILGRIM]

Do need a small gun and money is tight?
Find a J Frame with blemishes.
Take the seller for a stroll down through low-ball city!

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

The clear coat finish on the anodized aluminum surface can peel and flake. Certain harsh ammonia based chemical cleaners accelerate this. Be careful not to slather bore cleaner on the frame. I've had no problem with CLP causing problems.

S&W can refinish the gun to make it look like new. The service is remarkably affordable. Whether they will do it for free under warranty I can't say. Ask them.

There's been a few members here that just polished their frames down to the bare aluminum alloy. No sure how this might deteriorate, wear, and oxidize over in the long term. Like 10 - 20 years. But, in the near term the owners liked it and the guns looked okay to me.

 

[kaaskop49]

My only finish problem on a Smith lightweight J was a used 342 whose finish peeled after I sprayed GunScrubber into the insides. (Some will advise against this, but I use this after shooting any handgun.) The clear finish of the 342 peeled off; my gunsmith checked this and did not anticipate any harm done. This gun's "sister" 337 did not experience any finish damage after the same treatment. Nor any other modern-era J.

From extensive reading on this Forum of this matter, it seems the factory uses various finish products at different times, thus accounting for different outcomes.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[Fox2boost]

I just went through this exact problem with Smith and wesson. I got the gun on trade for a bodyguard 380. I over looked the finish mainly because I hated the bodyguard. I figured Smith would do something for me on the finish. I sent the gun in for an estimate. I live in Springfield mass I though I could just bring it there but I had to go through the whole ticket then FedEx pick up of the gun. No problem they paid for shipping. After a month and a half I finally got a letter in the mail from Smith with a detailed estimate. They told me the finish was only covered for a year. The estimate was for almost 300 dollars to refinish the gun. I promptly called the phone number and told them I respectively refuse the quote and please send me my firearm back. Upon doing some research online and I've refinished alot of my other guns and rifles whether it be cerakote, polishing or parkerizing. I decided to tackle it myself.

 

[Fox2boost]

I'm terrible at before pictures but most of the gun looked like this.

 

[Fox2boost]

I decided to do a trigger job (stoning contact points and apex springs) while it's apart. This is after glass beading the rest of the clearcoat off. I plan on high polishing the whole thing and possibly bobbing the hammer.

 

[Fox2boost]

This is a airweight 637 fyi

 

[smithman]

I decided to do a trigger job (stoning contact points and apex springs) while it's apart. This is after glass beading the rest of the clearcoat off. I plan on high polishing the whole thing and possibly bobbing the hammer.

Didn't you just blast off the anodized skin too? Seems unwise.

 

[DevilDog72]

polish it with flitz and wax with mothers wax.. it will look great