Apex DCAEK install

[pwomble]

After one trip to the range with a shiny new M&P 9mm full size I ordered the DCAEK kit from Apex. It was pretty easy to install. Including watching the YouTube videos a couple of times I have less than an hour total invested.

I should get back to the range this weekend but dry fire feels so much better. The grit is certainly gone. My Shield will be next!

 

[uechikid]

I had the same experience. I did need to buy a couple of tools but I saved a bunch by doing it myself. I did my FS and my wife's compact. I took my lap top out to the garage, cued up the video. Watched a section then did the work then watched the next section and so on. Thank god for Youtube.

 

[Johnmuratore]

Agreed on all counts.
I probably needed a set of punches and a plastic hammer anyway.

 

[pwomble]

I bought their armorer's block although it's not really needed. I just like cool tools.

 

[TTSH]

After one trip to the range with a shiny new M&P 9mm full size I ordered the DCAEK kit from Apex. It was pretty easy to install. Including watching the YouTube videos a couple of times I have less than an hour total invested.

Some of the videos and advice I've heard from gunsmiths go a lot further than just dropping in the replacement parts, mostly a bit of burr removal and some polishing here and there. What's the forum consensus on that? Helpful and worth it or not?

If I'm going to do this to my M&P40, my M&P9c and my Shield, I'd like to be sure that I'm doing all the necessary work as I don't feel like doing it twice.

 

[CQB60]

S&W should really make this trigger mod, stock.

 

[AGoyette]

Some of the videos and advice I've heard from gunsmiths go a lot further than just dropping in the replacement parts, mostly a bit of burr removal and some polishing here and there. What's the forum consensus on that? Helpful and worth it or not?

If I'm going to do this to my M&P10, my M&P9c and my Shield, I'd like to be sure that I'm doing all the necessary work as I don't feel like doing it twice.

TTSH,
I have done 5 M&P's now. The only part I did not do was the USB. I had the gunsmith do that since I was leary of playing with the sights. I think he polished the USB channel on one gun, not even sure it was really needed. I have not found any burrs etc. Installing the polymer trigger is a lot easier than installing the aluminum trigger, just an FYI. Good luck!

 

[Bkreutz]

If I'm going to do this to my M&P10, my M&P9c and my Shield, I'd like to be sure that I'm doing all the necessary work as I don't feel like doing it twice.

Is that a mistype, or are you really talking about a rifle? I wasn't aware the Apex made rifle triggers, if you are considering changing the trigger in a MP10, I'd recommend a Timney drop in.

 

[TTSH]

Is that a mistype, or are you really talking about a rifle? I wasn't aware the Apex made rifle triggers, if you are considering changing the trigger in a MP10, I'd recommend a Timney drop in.

Wishful thinking I guess! A 10mm M&P.

Obviously, I meant my M&P40. Dang typo.

I'll fix it above. Thanks!

 

[Johnmuratore]

I'm a little confused.
The striker block in the USB kit looks just like the one included in the DCAEK and FSS kits. Am I missing something?

 

[Bkreutz]

I'm a little confused.
The striker block in the USB kit looks just like the one included in the DCAEK and FSS kits. Am I missing something?

Nope, same parts. Just different levels of kits. If you get the FSS, then all the other parts are included. The USB kit contains the fewest parts.

 

[Johnmuratore]

Thank you, Sir.
I've done both kits and that "domed" striker block looked very familiar.

 

[mark32812]

I just ordered my kit yesterday, and I should have it in a day or so. I watched the video that Apex made and I can not see very clearly what he is doing. I am going to try to watch other videos. I did watch a video where I guy had to really pound on the rear sight of his C.O.R.E to get it off, only to find out that it was not needed for the C.O.R.E.

 

[Johnmuratore]

Mark,
Watch as many of the videos as you can find. I found that they all miss a thing or 2 or take for granted that you know what they are doing. One thing I noticed in the Apex vid was that the fellow assumed we knew how to get the takedown lever off. By asking on this forum, I found that you have to rotate it up as far as it will go, and pull. Another thing is when you remove the locking block by punching out the roll pin, make sure you keep an eye on the takedown lever spring. Its small and VERY easy to lose.
You'll need a 1/8" steel punch for the roll pins, a 1/16" Allen wrench for the rear sight, and a soft hammer or brass drift to get the rear sight off. Some are easy, but some are very tight.
Take a look at Rastoff's diagrams to get an idea of what the parts are and where they're located.

You'll be fine and you'll feel great to have done this yourself.