Apex M&P Parts

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I thought it would be more appropriate to move into this sub section being as all we've discussed is M&P Parts.

Our latest parts install video is up. This will guide you through how to install the DCAEK (Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Kit) in your M&P.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IOia0KMzIk
 
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"This video has been removed because it is too long. Regular YouTube videos must be 10 minutes or less."
 
I just saw that .... I have to reedit the video into 2 parts and repost it...

Should have it up tonight.. Sorry.
 
Question for ya. Can you compare and contrast the competition versus duty/carry kits? I see the trigger pull is much softer on the competition kit, but what else? Looks like many more parts included for only $5 bucks more.

FWIW, my full size M&P will NEVER be used as a carry gun. Strictly for the range. So you can understand my interest.:)
 
The difference is the spring kits. The Apex Hard Sear and Ultimate Striker Blocks are universal for the Duty and Competition kits.

The Comp AEK includes a reduced rate Sear Spring, Trigger Return Spring and Striker Spring producing a trigger pull in the 2.5-3.0lb range.

The Duty/Carry AEK includes increased rate Sear and Trigger Return Springs. Producing a trigger pull in the 5.5lb range.

Each kit comes with a Talon Tactical Rear Sight Installation Tool as well as an Apex Trigger Return Spring Slave Pin. Each of which aid in reassembly.

If you think 2.5-3.0lbs is too light, I would recommend trying the HArd Sear and USB alone. They will normally yield a 4.25lb trigger pull. If you mix and match factory springs with our Competition Springs you'll get something in between.

Scott @ Apex
 
I just installed the DCAEK in my 45. It went in easy and really improved the trigger. I did lose a bit of feel with the sear reset but it was worth it for the great improvement in the trigger pull. Now I'm waiting for the RAM for manual safety M&P's to help with the sear reset.

Keep up the good work Apex!
 
The difference is the spring kits. The Apex Hard Sear and Ultimate Striker Blocks are universal for the Duty and Competition kits.

The Comp AEK includes a reduced rate Sear Spring, Trigger Return Spring and Striker Spring producing a trigger pull in the 2.5-3.0lb range.

The Duty/Carry AEK includes increased rate Sear and Trigger Return Springs. Producing a trigger pull in the 5.5lb range.

Each kit comes with a Talon Tactical Rear Sight Installation Tool as well as an Apex Trigger Return Spring Slave Pin. Each of which aid in reassembly.

If you think 2.5-3.0lbs is too light, I would recommend trying the HArd Sear and USB alone. They will normally yield a 4.25lb trigger pull. If you mix and match factory springs with our Competition Springs you'll get something in between.

Scott @ Apex


Do the reduced weight springs cause potential for accidental discharge? I would love to have a 3lb trigger on my compact m&p9c that I carry all the time. It would be similar to my brother's 1911 Kimber. Is the warning because of stressful situations and light triggers not mixing with a bit of lawyer sprinkled in? Or is there potential of an accidental discharge when I slip on the ice and bust my arse with the gun in my waistband.

For the record, my gun is carried without a bullet in the pipe (unless walking in the woods) and does have a manual safety. I keep one out of the pipe for my own piece of mind. I just want to know if I'd be doing something really stupid if I put the competition kit in a carry gun. My gun is sort of getting the "target treatment" in hopes that I will be able to put holes in a coke can at 30yds. Thanks for any input or advice.
 
Do the reduced weight springs cause potential for accidental discharge? I would love to have a 3lb trigger on my compact m&p9c that I carry all the time. It would be similar to my brother's 1911 Kimber. Is the warning because of stressful situations and light triggers not mixing with a bit of lawyer sprinkled in? Or is there potential of an accidental discharge when I slip on the ice and bust my arse with the gun in my waistband.

For the record, my gun is carried without a bullet in the pipe (unless walking in the woods) and does have a manual safety. I keep one out of the pipe for my own piece of mind. I just want to know if I'd be doing something really stupid if I put the competition kit in a carry gun. My gun is sort of getting the "target treatment" in hopes that I will be able to put holes in a coke can at 30yds. Thanks for any input or advice.

We don't recommend the lighter trigger pulls for carry because of the likely hood of accidentally actuating the trigger in a stressful situation. Under pressure our fine motor skills go out the window, so having a trigger pull that is in the 5lb range won't feel any heavier than a trigger pull in the 3lb range because of the adrenaline state you would be in.

All of our AEK's including the Competition AEK maintain all factory safety values and in our experience have no problem with being dropped or banged around.

It's always up to the end user to decide what they want to carry or not carry. I personally carried a 1911 for a while, in condition 1 (cocked and locked). It's only a matter of what you feel is safe to carry that matters.

Personally I'd go with the Hard Sear and USB for the 4lb pull and see how I like it. You would be surprised how nice a smooth 4lb trigger feels.

Scott @ Apex
 
We don't recommend the lighter trigger pulls for carry because of the likely hood of accidentally actuating the trigger in a stressful situation. Under pressure our fine motor skills go out the window, so having a trigger pull that is in the 5lb range won't feel any heavier than a trigger pull in the 3lb range because of the adrenaline state you would be in.

All of our AEK's including the Competition AEK maintain all factory safety values and in our experience have no problem with being dropped or banged around.

It's always up to the end user to decide what they want to carry or not carry. I personally carried a 1911 for a while, in condition 1 (cocked and locked). It's only a matter of what you feel is safe to carry that matters.

Personally I'd go with the Hard Sear and USB for the 4lb pull and see how I like it. You would be surprised how nice a smooth 4lb trigger feels.

Scott @ Apex

Now THAT was a fast response! Thanks for the advice. That answered my question. Once again....thanks for responding quickly!
 
For the record, my gun is carried without a bullet in the pipe (unless walking in the woods) and does have a manual safety. I keep one out of the pipe for my own piece of mind.
Carrying an empty pistol puts you at a severe disadvantage for using it. As does a manual safety. A manual safety is only required on a very few designs, the M&P is not one of them.

An empty pistol takes two hands (or some gymnastics) to load. Carrying it in this condition is just foolish. The pistol will fire only when you pull the trigger. Full loaded in your holster it ain't doing anything by itself. If you're comfortable "in the woods" what's the difference on the street?

Mr. Murphy will always find a way to put your pistol on SAFE even if you didn't. This means you must always take the pistol off safe every time you shoot it or it'll just go click. This is easy with the M1911 where the current training doctrine places the firing hand thumb on top of the safety lock all the time. All the time. Low ready and safed? Thumb is on top. Shooting? Thumb remains on top. This ensures the pistol will fire every time. The M&P safety does not lend itself to this mode but you gotta check it. Fortunately you can remove the M&P manual safety easily the next time you detail clean the pistol.

My M&P9 has a 4-1/2 pound (Burwell) trigger pull just like my M1911s. I doubt I'd want a lighter trigger.

If you're going to continue to carry a pistol with a safety (on or off safe) -- or, worse, an unloaded pistol -- find some time and a range and do your own Tueller Drills and determine your decision distance.

21 feet is the normal extreme danger zone. Within that zone the typical well trained shooter will be unable to get the pistol out of the holster, fire, and hit before the attacker is upon him with a weapon such as a knife, baseball bat, etc. If you're dicking with loading the pistol or fumbling with a safety I'm betting your danger zone will be much greater. This is a sucker bet, so don't take it! :)

-- Chuck
 
I agree 100% with everything you say about carrying the gun with an empty pipe. The "piece of mind" I was referring to was being Mr. Mom all day w/ a 3yr old and a 10 month old boys. Even then I have the gun on (because my pants don't feel right w/out it. I have the older boy fully versed on guns/danger/always treat every gun as loaded etc...but leave the pipe empty when around for just one more measure of protection against a 3 year old who is obsessed with guns. Even though I do my part in seeing that they never get into little hands, I do that for insurance against me screwing up and laying it in the wrong place.

The manual safety is totally redundant and I will be removing it soon. It was placed there to dig into my side like a sharp knife I think. Also, I should've been more clear about "in the woods". I actually carry it ready to fire w/safety off all the time when out of the house...in town or the woods etc... Thanks for the response thhough. You make perfect sense....anyone who thinks that the gun might fire on its own simply doesn't understand how the trigger/sear/stryker block etc.... works.

By the way. If anyone is reading this who plans to buy an M&P, don't get a manual safety. It adds width to the gun and is not necessary. :).
 
If you think 2.5-3.0lbs is too light, I would recommend trying the HArd Sear and USB alone. They will normally yield a 4.25lb trigger pull. If you mix and match factory springs with our Competition Springs you'll get something in between.

Scott @ Apex
Ahhh so it appears as though I can buy all the parts included in the comp kit separately, even the springs. So you suggest just getting the USB and sear for now... and if I feel I want more, I can simply purchase the comp spring kit separately to complete the whole AEK. On top of that, if I feel the comp springs are too light, I can mix and match with stock parts to perfect my pull.
 
FWIW, My 9c went too light with the full DCAEK kit so I installed a heavier factory MASS compliant trigger return spring and it went back up to a NICE 5.6#. That's really as low as I care to go in a cary gun where the safety is built into the trigger pull.


BTW, has the video be updated to show the simpler method to replace the trigger return spring. i.e. Just slip the pin 1/2 out vs removing the whole assembly? Saves a ton of time and grief.
 
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Merry Xmas to my M&P-9 I just ordered the DCAEK Trigger and RAM kit for my baby, gotta fix that trigger feel. I think S&W should serioulsy rework the trigger, it could turn a decent handgun into and excellant one for a small investment IMHO. I will only recommend this line of M&P pistols to my friends with the caviate that the trigger will need modification, but that's just my opinion. Not many triggers I have experienced ever felt as bad, I have to honestly admit. :(
 

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