Apex Mods?

[Hatrix]

I LOVE my M&P 40. However I can't stand the two piece jointed trigger.

Been doing my research on Apex. I'm really not interested in changing the trigger pull weight. I'm quite happy with it as is.

My question is: Can I just swap out for one of the AEK triggers from Apex only and not worry about making other modifications?

As I stated already, I don't really want to change the pull weight. If I'm understanding what I'm reading on the Apex site correctly, just adding the trigger should give a major improvement in take up, and over travel, which would be a huge benefit, not to mention getting rid of the god awful jointed trigger. So in my situation, for what I'm wanting, the DCAEK wouldn't really be needed?

Hope someone can help clear this up, cuz I'm confused as all heck! LOL

 

[FP2000H]

The trigger comes with a new sear spring which aids the trigger in its function. It is designed to work with the DCAEK. I would put the whole thing in. You'll be happy you did.

 

[snowman.45]

I just installed the APEX polymer trigger in my 40c. The take-up is nearly non-existant. The trigger pull weight didn't appear to change, and I did install the sear spring they supplied with the trigger. I' very pleased with the whole rig. The sear reset is also substantially improved.

 

[Mike1161]

I have a 40L CORE and the full APEX Comp kit has improved my entire trigger. No gritty feeling, reduced take up, less travel on the release and reset, and a 3.5 lb trigger.

Best money I could have spent on this pistol. That being said, I knew before I got the gun I would be adding the Apex kit.

 

[Rastoff]

I just installed the APEX polymer trigger in my 40c. The take-up is not nearly non-existant. The trigger pull weight didn't appear to change, and I did install the sear spring they supplied with the trigger. I'n very please with the whole rig. The sear reset is also substantially improved.

I assume you meant to say, "The take-up is now nearly non-existent."

Did you replace just the trigger and spring or did you install the Forward Set Sear kit? I fail to see how replacing just the trigger would reduce take up. I can see how it would help with over travel, but not take up. Can someone please explain it?

 

[DanTana]

I just installed the complete kit, with competition spring and RAM. There are a number of options you can go and customize your trigger pull weight. I opted for the aluminum trigger kit. The difference is night and day. No gritty feeling, no long take up, just a crisp pull. I emailed Apex before I started and here is what they told me:

Order the FSS.
Install your Stock Trigger Return Spring with all the FSS Kit parts.
That should yield a 3-3.5lb trigger pull without modifications or extra costs.

Option #2:
Install the complete FSS Kit with the following exceptions.
Use the Trigger Return Spring from the Comp Kit.
Use the Striker Spring from the Comp Kit.
Start off with the FSS Sear Spring, so we negate the potential for Sear Flutter.

This should yield a 2-2.5lb pull with approx a 0.25" trigger stroke.

Thanks to Jon Shadwick at Apex for this information.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

Doing just the trigger is a great upgrade while its apart get a polishing wheel and go to town on stock internals.

 

[snowman.45]

I assume you meant to say, "The take-up is now nearly non-existent."

Did you replace just the trigger and spring or did you install the Forward Set Sear kit? I fail to see how replacing just the trigger would reduce take up. I can see how it would help with over travel, but not take up. Can someone please explain it?

Your assumption was correct. Late night typos seem to be common with me. I replaced only the sear spring and the trigger itself. I assume the difference is in the trigger geometry itself, as there is a definite difference in the take-up. In fact, I took it to the range today and qualified with it for off-duty use. The trigger pull was very crisp and short. I know there was some mention in the instructional video of how the trigger is geometrically different from the original, enough so that the "cane" on the end of sear block end of the transfer bar sometimes needs to be opened up as much as .011 in order to ensure that the sear releases and resets properly.