Apex striker block install in OR M&P9 2.0

TPD252

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Hey all, just checking in with a quick question. I'm installing an Apex polymer flat faced forward set trigger in my OR 2.0 compact, and have run into an issue with the striker block. Unlike the standard pistol, the striker block is kept in place not by the rear sight, but is affixed to the slide by what looks like a rivet. I have only found one reference in a google search, and it was less than helpful. It was referred to as a rivet and as a .050 Allen screw. It looks like a rivet to me, as my .050 Allen key did nothing.

Anyone encounter this yet? If so, what did you end up doing? I have yet to contact Apex, but will do so shortly. I will update this thread if/when I learn anything. Thanks!
 
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I'm totally stabbing in the dark here, but does it maybe pry out of there and snap back in?
 
Hey all, just checking in with a quick question. I'm installing an Apex polymer flat faced forward set trigger in my OR 2.0 compact, and have run into an issue with the striker block. Unlike the standard pistol, the striker block is kept in place not by the rear sight, but is affixed to the slide by what looks like a rivet. I have only found one reference in a google search, and it was less than helpful. It was referred to as a rivet and as a .050 Allen screw. It looks like a rivet to me, as my .050 Allen key did nothing.

Anyone encounter this yet? If so, what did you end up doing? I have yet to contact Apex, but will do so shortly. I will update this thread if/when I learn anything. Thanks!
Can you take some pics and post them?
 
It's an allen key. Make sure it's fully seated and go for it. If I remember correctly it had red Loctite so it takes a some effort. Long arm Allen keys work best for this.
 
If it's an Allen key, then maybe my key is out of spec or something because it just spun.
 

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If it's an Allen key, then maybe my key is out of spec or something because it just spun.

I measured my Allen keys...

.050" key measures .047" feels 'loose' and spins
different .050" key measure .0505" fits properly and works
1.27mm key measures .049" feels not so loose and works

1.27mm is in my metric set and is the equivalent of .050"

Hex shape is visible below:

KYPA4SY.jpg
 
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Just a quick update on this. After I put a little heat on it, and lightly drove a slightly oversized Torx bit in, I was able to back that thing out and complete the install without any damage. Which is so often the case with these small Allen bolts, the head got wallowed out. I thank everyone that took the time to respond, it was very helpful.
 
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I have a question just for clarification. Does it take a allen wrench or does it take a torx head wrench?
 
Thanks TPD252 for the clarification. I just wanted to make sure for future reference. Let us know how you like the Apex trigger and striker block.
 
Thanks TPD252 for the clarification. I just wanted to make sure for future reference. Let us know how you like the Apex trigger and striker block.

I absolutely love them, as this will be my fifth flat faced forward set trigger (3 aluminum and 2 polymer). The stock 2.0 trigger isn't great, but it's not the worst. I don't care for the hinged shoe, but my main beef with it is how late it breaks. The Apex breaks at nearly 90 degrees, and for me, it totally transforms how the pistol shoots. My only gripe is I wish it had a more positive reset, but I can live with it because of the dramatic improvement on the front end.

As far as the difference between the aluminum and polymer shoes goes, I have not shot the polymer yet. In dry firing you can obviously tell the difference between the two, but for the $50-$60 I'm not sure the aluminum version is worth it. That being said, the aluminum shoe would be my preference. The polymer is WAY easier to install though.
 
Was your stock striker block flat with the chamfer?

My 1.0 CORE slide came with a rounded one similar to the Apex.
 
Hey all, just a quick update. Apex advised that silver cover should be held in place by a .050 Allen screw or a #5 Torx. It sounds like they've seen both. Anyway, hopefully this will help others in the future.
 
I've been hesitant to try to remove mine out of concern for stripping the head.

Make sure you Allen key is of proper size and go for it. Measure then if possible, most of mine were undersized. Do NOT use the 'ball' end... square end only. It you strip it out...eh. Drill it then buy a new screw, they're inexpensive.

.050" SAE or 1.27mm Metric
 
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It honestly seems pointless for there to even be a screw holding it down. There is no screw under the normal rear sight, the rear sight captures it. Does S&W really think someone is going to shoot the gun with no plate of any sort?
 
Makes sense to me. I have an RMR on mine. Battery is underneath so I have to remove the sight to change it. It nice to not worry about the striker block and especially the little spring.
 
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