Apex trigger upgrade. Well worth the investment

[bimmerland]

Followed the videos to the letter. Took my tired and shaky hands a little longer to accomplish the task but the difference is amazing. Trigger pull is 4 lbs. and reset is 2mm.
Question. Is the apex RAM kit a worthwhile addition or is it not necessary. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[Smakmauz]

you gots you a FLATTY!!! Those have grown on me quite a bit. I used to think they were super ugly and didn't really get the flat trigger thing so I put the curved polymer trigger FSS kits in my full sized guns. No that I've shot a few kinds of guns with more flat triggers I've gotten to like them a lot and now the look is even growing on me a bit. As soon as that kit comes out for the 2.0, I'm throwing it in my 5" FDE.

as to the RAM, I don't personally have one in any of mine because they only work with the sear block that was designed for the guns with the frame lock and none of mine have that. I see yours does. From the old video apex has on their site you can hear that reset click really well and it would seem to me that if you already have the right sear block, then it would be a well spent $25 if you pay a lot of attention to reset when shooting. Maybe someone else who has actually installed one can chime in on that. I've been thinking lately about picking up a compatible sear block just so I can play with one because I'm a yuuge fan of apex stuff.

one tip with those FSS kits is watch your overtravel and adjust out as much as you can with the candy cane loop on the trigger bar. the timing between disengaging the striker block and dropping the sear is a lot tighter with the forward set sear and if you don't have the loop closed enough, you can get light strikes because the striker will drop before the block is in its fully retracted position and the striker will actually glance off of the block a little bit, slowing down the striker. one of the side effects (I've noticed) of too much over travel with these kits is a lighter trigger pull. 4lbs seems just a bit light unless you mixed in some of the factory springs. typically these kits when new run about 4.5-5lbs with the lighter trigger spring from the kit and then settle in a bit lighter. But it could just be the tolerance of your particular gun. Let me know if you want any info on checking or adjusting your over travel. I've got a couple tricks I can share.

 

[bimmerland]

you gots you a FLATTY!!! Those have grown on me quite a bit. I used to think they were super ugly and didn't really get the flat trigger thing so I put the curved polymer trigger FSS kits in my full sized guns. No that I've shot a few kinds of guns with more flat triggers I've gotten to like them a lot and now the look is even growing on me a bit. As soon as that kit comes out for the 2.0, I'm throwing it in my 5" FDE.

as to the RAM, I don't personally have one in any of mine because they only work with the sear block that was designed for the guns with the frame lock and none of mine have that. I see yours does. From the old video apex has on their site you can hear that reset click really well and it would seem to me that if you already have the right sear block, then it would be a well spent $25 if you pay a lot of attention to reset when shooting. Maybe someone else who has actually installed one can chime in on that. I've been thinking lately about picking up a compatible sear block just so I can play with one because I'm a yuuge fan of apex stuff.

one tip with those FSS kits is watch your overtravel and adjust out as much as you can with the candy cane loop on the trigger bar. the timing between disengaging the striker block and dropping the sear is a lot tighter with the forward set sear and if you don't have the loop closed enough, you can get light strikes because the striker will drop before the block is in its fully retracted position and the striker will actually glance off of the block a little bit, slowing down the striker. one of the side effects (I've noticed) of too much over travel with these kits is a lighter trigger pull. 4lbs seems just a bit light unless you mixed in some of the factory springs. typically these kits when new run about 4.5-5lbs with the lighter trigger spring from the kit and then settle in a bit lighter. But it could just be the tolerance of your particular gun. Let me know if you want any info on checking or adjusting your over travel. I've got a couple tricks I can share.

Today will be my first range test since the install. I'll give you an update tomorrow. Any suggestions on adjustments not shown in the videos would be most welcome. Thanks

 

[Smakmauz]

Today will be my first range test since the install. I'll give you an update tomorrow. Any suggestions on adjustments not shown in the videos would be most welcome. Thanks

well, I don't know what vids you watched but I usually will use a feeler gauge or something behind the trigger stop (in between the frame) and just stack it up until the trigger won't drop the sear and then you know what your over travel is. you really only need a couple hundredths I think randy said on one of the original apex vids. so you basically just close the loop until you only have that very slight amount of over travel. In cases like my shield, I actually filed a little off of the end of the loop so I could close it further because I had it maxed out and still had too much OT. The new shield 2.0's have an OT stop which is nice.

 

[bimmerland]

well, I don't know what vids you watched but I usually will use a feeler gauge or something behind the trigger stop (in between the frame) and just stack it up until the trigger won't drop the sear and then you know what your over travel is. you really only need a couple hundredths I think randy said on one of the original apex vids. so you basically just close the loop until you only have that very slight amount of over travel. In cases like my shield, I actually filed a little off of the end of the loop so I could close it further because I had it maxed out and still had too much OT. The new shield 2.0's have an OT stop which is nice.

My Core had an adjustable OT stop screw but it was worthless once I put the new trigger in. My OT is barely beyond the trigger break so I'm very satisfied. No adjustment to the trigger bar loop was needed. Went through 150+ rounds with no issues and extremely tight groups. Would absolutely recommend this trigger for any serious bullseye or range shooting.

 

[tex-archer]

What is that sight that you have?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Smakmauz]

from the button design, thats the vortex venom.

 

[bimmerland]

What is that sight that you have?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I tried the vortex viper but could not lock the emitter settings due to the limited space between the rear sight and the back of the viper where the locking screws are located. I sent it back to vortex and they upgraded me to a venom for free. The venom does not require locking screws to hold zero. I can still cowitness and the settings stay zeroed after 300+ rounds. I also like the fact that the battery access is on top so I dont have to remove the sight. Thanks for asking.