AR cleaner and lubricants- non toxic

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Flyingfool

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I have always used Hoppe’s #9 solvents and gun oil for all my handguns and hutimg rifles and shot guns.

I am wondering however if those products are really the best for an AR. Specifically the oil as it is quite viscous and thick.

I read of some folks who use automatic transmission fluid. But I am concerned that it might harm the finish, and may not have the cling surface adhesion to lubricant for any length of time.

I have read and it seems popular on AR to use Break Free CLP and also Balistol.

I am a bit skeptical of a single product that can really dissolve powder residue AND lubricant AND be nontoxic. Seems too good to be true.

I hope I don't start a war here.... But what is a good either single product, or combination of two products, that are preferably non toxic for use on my new Sport 2?
 
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I love Ballistol and use it on all my firearms except my AR. I use the Slip 2000 series of products on my AR. It seems the more I use either on a firearm the easier they are to clean. YMMV.
 
I use Remoil aerosol, dissolves residue and leaves a light coat of oil. Every gun I own gets this treatment. Then oil with higher viscosity lubricants where needed.
 
I use Hoppe's 9 simply because I always have and it's cheap in large bottles.

I use Wilson Combat lubricants, "Oil" and "Universal". I like the applicators on the bottles and because it says Wilson Combat it provides me with the illusion of using something superior to other products. Eh... I really don't think it makes much difference though it does tend to stay where it's applied better than some other lubricants I've used.

Of all the 'cleaning' products and tools I use, the CAT M4 is perhaps the one item I think is uniquely worth recommending. Super fast and easy. I consider it the perfect tool for those who aren't perfectionists.

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You may wish to check out the SLIP2000 website. I began using their line of cleaners & lubricants in 2008 and never looked back. I've used them on my patrol rifle and service pistol with excellent results in the weather of SW PA. Their products are GTG.

If you check the labels on some of the well known cleaners and lubricants, you will see a warning that they may cause cancer. In law enforcement, we call that a "clue".

I'm not bashing any other products and have no affiliation with SLIP2000. Just saying that this works for me. YMMV.

JPJ
 
Ballistol is a handy and effective product, but it is just food-grade mineral oil with some propane and white gasoline added in handy packaging.
There are several "dry" lubes for ARs (and others) which are very useful if you operate in sand and dust (like our local range).


The strict rules result in many ordinary cleaners being labeled "toxic" and I am not impressed by special "non-toxic" products. The firing residue itself is really toxic with heavy metals in soluble compounds you should not breathe or eat.
 
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I made my own homemade cleaner/lube a while back with 1 part synthetic 10w-30 oil, 1 part synthetic ATF, and 1/2 part Marvel Mystery Oil. Hardly has an odor, stays in place, wipes clean, and seems to have less friction than Hoppe's Elite. I also have not noticed any changes in various temperatures as well. I have about gallon and at the rate it's going, I don't think I'll ever need more. After I shoot, I'll wipe everything down (removes most carbon), spray it down with cleaner, then re-lube.
Definitely not "non-toxic" though.

I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on froglube as well btw.
 
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flyinfool wrote:
I am wondering however if those products are really the best for an AR.
Click to expand...

According to page 38 of the manual that came with your Sport II (you did read the manual thoroughly, didn't you?) you should use a high-quality firearms solvent and a high-quality gun oil to clean and lubricate your rifle.

Of course these are only the recommendation of the people who built and warranty the rifle, but what do they know?

I have a somewhat unique perspective on this issue because I developed a neurological condition that would have killed me except for a successful experimental treatment. Except for a handful of occasions when they were handled, wiped with a clean cloth (but not lubricated) and returned to the safe, my guns were not cleaned nor lubricated for 20 years.

Up to that point, I had always maintained my guns by cleaning them with a high quality solvent and lubricated them with a high quality firearms oil. And after 20 years of neglect, I suffered ZERO rust, ZERO deterioration of the guns.

You can use anything you want to maintain your guns. In my case, I followed what was the manufacturer's recommendations for maintenance and I suffered no loss after 20 years of neglect. I have yet to read of anyone else who used a different maintenance regimen and got similar results.

My 93 year old father - and before him my 84 year old grandfather) both spent their whole careers in the Army maintaining their weapons (and even though both were field grade officers, they trusted nobody other than themselves to clean the gun they relied on to stay alive) and they both lived long lives by simply washing their hands with soap and water after their cleaning.
 
Ballistol is a handy and effective product, but it is just food-grade mineral oil with some propane and white gasoline added in handy packaging.
Click to expand...

While Ballistol has a proven track record as an effective product, it is mineral oil dissolved into petroleum distillates and is no less toxic than the Hoppe's chemicals you are already using.
 
snm8510 said:
I made my own homemade cleaner/lube a while back with 1 part synthetic 10w-30 oil, 1 part synthetic ATF, and 1/2 part Marvel Mystery Oil. Hardly has an odor, stays in place, wipes clean, and seems to have less friction than Hoppe's Elite. I also have not noticed any changes in various temperatures as well. I have about gallon and at the rate it's going, I don't think I'll ever need more. After I shoot, I'll wipe everything down (removes most carbon), spray it down with cleaner, then re-lube.
Definitely not "non-toxic" though.
Click to expand...

I've been thinking about a blend like that for quite a while. ATF has a pretty high detergent level that will dissolve gum and varnish, and break down carbon after a while. Its also about a 5w-20 or so viscosity.

Did you come up with the recipe, or did you read it somewhere?
 
So far my AR has run fine on Ballistol.
You can look up the MSDS sheet on Ballistol online. It's about as non-toxic and non-hazardous as a useful product can be.
 
Flyingfool said:
I am wondering however if those products are really the best for an AR. Specifically the oil as it is quite viscous and thick.
Click to expand...

Missed that part of your post.

Yes, Wilson Combat specifically takes into consideration temperatures for their lubricants.

Ultima-Lube II Oil - Thin viscosity penetrates hard to get to areas. Ideal for cold weather use, 10° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Tightly fitted handguns of all types.

Ultima-Lube II Universal - All purpose lube for all types of firearms. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Service pistols/revolvers and broken-in custom handguns, Long guns of all action types, AR style rifles in the 20° to 50° F temperature range.

Ultima-Lube II Grease - Ideal for heavy wear areas. Stays put under extreme conditions, 40° to 350° F temperature range. Recommended Uses: Full and Semi-Auto rifles and carbines, Optimal in AR style rifles at temperatures above 50° F.

-------

Living in Wisconsin.... the viscosity of lubricants you're using might be something worthy of consideration if firearms are exposed to extreme cold temperatures prior to use.
 
Racer X said:
I've been thinking about a blend like that for quite a while. ATF has a pretty high detergent level that will dissolve gum and varnish, and break down carbon after a while. Its also about a 5w-20 or so viscosity.

Did you come up with the recipe, or did you read it somewhere?
Click to expand...

I read something on another forum from an employee from a manufacture that said they use that mix to factory lube their rifles minus the MMO. But yes, it does an awesome job for keeping the carbon build up down and lubricity high :D
 
For a non toxic cleaner and conditioner, i use Froglube. But its kind of a pain. you have to heat up your surfaces to use it effectively. So usually just use CLP. it does a very good job all the way around.
 
I am a bit confused. I read and hear lots of things that say that AR’s love to be “run wet”. And then I read to oil everything and then wipe it down.

So which is it?
 
Flyingfool said:
I am a bit confused. I read and hear lots of things that say that AR’s love to be “run wet”. And then I read to oil everything and then wipe it down.

So which is it?
Click to expand...

A person can find whatever answer they want... from dipping the rifle in a barrel of oil to operating it dry. The rifle design is quite accommodating to just about anything the operator wishes.

If you'd like a drop by drop and oil smear routine to follow this is as good as any.

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Oh... in case you were thinking I was exaggerating about dipping the rifle in a barrel of oil. :D

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9bOT_d60LM[/ame]
 
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I see Lucas now has an Extreme Duty Gun Oil designed for high volume fire in full and semi auto firearms.
Their regular gun oil is pretty good , the extreme duty might be worth trying in an AR. Might be just the ticket.
Gary
 
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