Are Apex triggers now standard on M&P 10mms from the S&W factory?

My dear Outrider, the information I posted is fact. How the devil would I know? I confirmed with close contacts at S&W that know what their company puts in their products.

Perhaps there is some confusion because S&W changed trigger designs from the original curved trigger to a new "flat faced" design. Because Apex made a name for themselves selling improved aftermarket triggers, some might confuse any new trigger profile with the aftermarket brand Apex.

If you don't want to believe me that S&W uses their own design triggers in the M&P and not aftermarket ones, that's fine. I won't argue on the internet.

I was very close friends with a S&W regional sales manager for some time.

Based on what he's told me, I KNOW S&W DOES do things like this. I also know lower echelon S&W folk aren't always aware of some changes.

The question is, did S&W do it in this case?

That's what I'm trying to determine.

The M&P 10mm has been pounded with adverse publicity for months now -- much of it unfair and inaccurate. S&W wouldn't be above offering the triggers as a deal-cincher and public relations coup. And I know for a fact they DO use outside suppliers.

For instance, I wouldn't be terribly surprised if they contracted with Wolf Springs to fix some of the issues the M&Ps are experiencing with feeding problems.

I'm going into the LGS/shop in the next few days to closely examine the pistols.

I know most of the sales people there well -- as well as the owner.

I'll do my best to get to the truth of this.

If appropriate and the store will allow it, I'll take photos. I can't guarantee they will because they've been spooky about in-store photos in the past.

Maybe we ALL can learn something on this.

And the truth is, I HOPE these ARE Apex triggers. I've had terrific experiences with them.

I may even try to talk one of the pistols into coming home with me.
 
Last edited:
If my 10mm 4.6" came with an Apex sear, and plunger I didn't notice much difference when I accually installed an Apex trigger kit in it, eccept some of the pre-travel was lessoned, but it still had quite a bit of over travel as the OEM had.

I will say that I compaired the plungers and I saw no difference under a manifier.

I did see a difference when I compaired the sears.

Trigger pull gage said the OEM was 5.5 - 5.8 lbs.

Apex was 4.6-4.8 lbs.

I Also installed a Timney that I'm keeping that gaged at 3.6-3.8 lbs, and also has less pre and over travel.
 
Apex? Lol never again. Tried one in my 5" PC and it wouldn't work. When with Timney and never looked back.
 
Apex? Lol never again. Tried one in my 5" PC and it wouldn't work. When with Timney and never looked back.

Well you ether order a apex kit for the wrong series or you mucked up something during the install . Apex has been around for some years and there product works .

GMAN556 If you play with springs getting a apex kit for a gen 2 that has a pull weight of 3lb 4oz is not hard to do and earlier gen in to the upper 2lb range . So if you carry a lite trigger at least have thumb safety's as the movement needed to reset the trigger is very 1911 like .
 
Well you ether order a apex kit for the wrong series or you mucked up something during the install . Apex has been around for some years and there product works .

GMAN556 If you play with springs getting a apex kit for a gen 2 that has a pull weight of 3lb 4oz is not hard to do and earlier gen in to the upper 2lb range . So if you carry a lite trigger at least have thumb safety's as the movement needed to reset the trigger is very 1911 like .

I was aware of that but it would still have significantly more over travel.

Some M&P's Have more than others due to tolerance stacking. The triggers bars are stamped, and not machined.

Unless you have a PC model where you can adjust the screw through the back of the frame you are stuck with what ever over travel you get.

A member on another S&W forum did a mod where he installed a allen screw on the sear housing where the trigger bar is stopped by the adjustment of the screw in and out, but I'm did'n want to do that.

The two timney's I have produced less overtravel so I'm sticking with them.

Same thing happenned with my Glock's where the Timney's were better than the Zev triggers.

It's all about tolerance stacking and geometry.

Sometimes you get lucky sometimes you don't.

Minimizing overtravel can make even a 6-7 lb trigger better.
 
Last edited:
I was aware of that but it would still have significantly more over travel.

Some M&P's Have more than others due to tolerance stacking. The triggers bars are stamped, and not machined.

Unless you have a PC model where you can adjust the screw through the back of the frame you are stuck with what ever over travel you get.

A member on another S&W forum did a mod where he installed a allen screw on the sear housing where the trigger bar is stopped by the adjustment of the screw in and out, but I'm did'n want to do that.

The two timney's I have produced less overtravel so I'm sticking with them.

Same thing happenned with my Glock's where the Timney's were better than the Zev triggers.

It's all about tolerance stacking and geometry.

Sometimes you get lucky sometimes you don't.

Minimizing overtravel can make even a 6-7 lb trigger better.

At last! Somebody with the stones to point this out on a gun forum. I have a couple of semi-pistols with 6 lb or more trigger pulls, but there is almost no overtravel. I find them way easier to shoot well than a standard M&P9 trigger.
 
If S&W went to a different trigger they would have changed the model number as that is what they and all other top manufacturers do to keep things straight. Is there a different model number on the gun or at least the box the gun was shipped in.
 
The M2.0 flat faced trigger that came on my M&P 10 M2.0 Performance Center looks nothing like any trigger on the Apex web site.
 

Attachments

  • 9F0DDDD7-261E-4583-87B4-17C2B89D91EE_1_201_a.jpeg
    9F0DDDD7-261E-4583-87B4-17C2B89D91EE_1_201_a.jpeg
    94.6 KB · Views: 12
Last edited:
The M2.0 flat faced trigger that came on my M&P 10 M2.0 Performance Center looks nothing like any trigger on the Apex web site.

This. Bring a picture of an Apex trigger to the store with you and compare.
 
I checked with the local gun store

Guys,

I got by the Local Gun Store today and spent some time looking at the S&W M&P 10mms they had in stock.

They're NOT Apex triggers -- contrary to what the store's people told me before.

Worse, the triggers they had on these in-stock pistols weren't anywhere nearly as smooth as the previous ones had been.

I have no way of knowing whether the store sold the previous ones I'd held. But these CLEARLY were not Apex.

If the previous ones did have Apex triggers, it's clear not ALL are coming from the factory with after-market triggers installed -- at least not coming through this store.
 
I was aware of that but it would still have significantly more over travel.

Some M&P's Have more than others due to tolerance stacking. The triggers bars are stamped, and not machined.

Unless you have a PC model where you can adjust the screw through the back of the frame you are stuck with what ever over travel you get.

A member on another S&W forum did a mod where he installed a allen screw on the sear housing where the trigger bar is stopped by the adjustment of the screw in and out, but I'm did'n want to do that.

The two timney's I have produced less overtravel so I'm sticking with them.

Same thing happenned with my Glock's where the Timney's were better than the Zev triggers.

It's all about tolerance stacking and geometry.

Sometimes you get lucky sometimes you don't.

Minimizing overtravel can make even a 6-7 lb trigger better.

Tolerance stacking ! One reason many m&p's get better with time is wear smooths parts but we have an early m&p9c with a apex sticker block kit and I did some slight smoothing of the corners and polishing of the connector where it engages the striker block and sear . Big difference in trigger pull smoothness and pull weight .

Now that over travel your concerned about . I learned decades ago to pull or sweep a trigger enough to fire it . Thats it , stopp the continued pulling of the trigger . Even on the couple PC 2.0 models I have that had closely set trigger over travel stops on them , I back those way off . Not need if you develop some trigger pull finger skills ! ha

Oh , No glucks here .

M&P are production handguns so variable exist even when change parts to better quality aftermarket parks so you learn to deal with those variables .
 
https://www.smith-wesson.com/product/performance-center-mp-10mm-pistol


The M2.0™ flat trigger will give you consistency in your pull, and now with the Performance Center® tuning, you can deliver accurate shots down range. A perfect option for those looking to step up their game.

Flat M2.0™ trigger with the enhanced Performance Center® tuning gives you a crisp break and audible reset leading to more accurate and faster shooting.
 
I have one of the m2.0 triggers in a performance center M&P and the to me there not something special but that is how s&w firearms have been for a while . Some are good , some are ok and some need some customer service tlc and maybe some after market parts . MY M2.0 triggered performance center model was in the later catagory .
 
So far I'm enjoying my M&P9 Performance but I have not measured the trigger pull or messed with the overtravel. It has been good from the factory, and I have not seen the need to mess with it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top