Badly crazed grips and starting over.....or not...update

[weatherby]

Figured some of you guys might like this..

I wound up with several really nice sets of grips where the original finish had become crazed.
It's been awhile since I've done any sets but Figured these would be worth the effort.

First 2 pictures show a badly crazed set.
3rd shows that set with a coat of tung oil and
another I just stripped.
4th shows the first coat of thu-oil on a previously stripped set.

 

[gmborkovic]

Not a wood guy. Define "crazed".

 

[75Vette]

Waiting to see the finished project, 'uncrazed'.

 

[K-22]

Lake Bed

Not a wood guy. Define "crazed".

Think of the crazing, or cracking appearance on a dry lake bed. The surface has fractured. In the case of the grips, the the expansion of the wood exceeded what the finish was capable of, and the finish shattered.(crazed)

Best,
Gary

 

[gmborkovic]

Gary, thanks. Simple and to the point. Are some finishes more prone than others.

 

[cgt4570]

For pre-war restoration, I use hand rubbed Danish Oil in medium walnut. For post-war, I use spray lacquer.
That's the closest I've been able to come to matching the various factory finishes.

 

[weatherby]

Waiting to see the finished project, 'uncrazed'.

So far....though you I should make wait

 

[JohnRippert]

From the guitar repair vids I like to watch the repair guys always call it finish checking, in the varnish on the instruments.

 

[Hawg Rider]

Figured some of you guys might like this..

I wound up with several really nice sets of grips where the original finish had become crazed.
It's been awhile since I've done any sets but Figured these would be worth the effort.

First 2 pictures show a badly crazed set.
3rd shows that set with a coat of tung oil and
another I just stripped.
4th shows the first coat of thu-oil on a previously stripped set.

I'm glad that you chose to use oil to re-finish the stocks, and not glossy varnish or polyurethane. I love the look of low gloss or matte oil finishes on rifle and handgun stocks, and that's my go to whenever I have to refinish. Hand rubbed and buffed oil finishes really show off the grain.

 

[H Richard]

What do the Violin makers do and product they use? Any idea?

 

[Gunhohulk]

What did you use to strip them?

 

[Marksman]

Woodworkers wanting to preserve the original finish use a product called Qualarenu by Behlen to do what they call a solvent refinish. Qualarenu dissolves the original finish allowing it to be spread around, I used it to repair the finish on a Newton rifle that had been too close to a hot stove or campfire and was severely checked. It turned out very nice and the customer was well pleased. Qualarenu is available from woodworker supply stores or online.

 

[K-22]

Shellac

What do the Violin makers do and product they use? Any idea?

A lot of old time instrument makers used shellac. Easy to work with, easily repaired. That being said, the end user needs to handle with care. A shellac finish does not like water, or alcohol. Google, “French Polish” for more shellac, and application info.
Best,
Gary

 

[Bubba2014]

I've had good success with high gloss tung oil.

 

[Shotguncoach]

What did you use to strip them?

Also interested in your technique. I used a scraper to remove the varnish on the only set I've refinished. An upcoming project is to restore a two sets of Herrett Jordan Trooper stocks that have crazing and white dents.....

 

[weatherby]

Acetone is what I use to remove the old finish..
I generally just put them in a sealed metal can overnight and use a toothbrush..

The old finish come off easily this way.

 

[BC38]

Acetone is what I use to remove the old finish..
I generally just put them in a sealed metal can overnight and use a toothbrush..

The old finish come off easily this way.

Ditto this. After a day or two submerged in acetone the remaining original finish will wipe right off. A toothbrush works well to remove any remaining traces out of the checkering.
Just be aware that you have to clean them up immediately after taking them out of the acetone bath, because the acetone will evaporate VERY quickly and any remaining finish will re-harden as it evaporates.

 

[weatherby]

That qualarenu sounds like a product I'd like to try thanks marksman for that tip.. I have a set or two that are just lightly crazed.

I actually tried to see if the acetone would soften the finish enough to blend but no joy there.

I've decided I'm going to try it on these two sets.
The top set will be first as it looks like a real good candidate for an initial trial.

If it works really well the bottom set would be interesting to try as the crazing is far more substantial.

I like the current finish on both if able to save it.

 

[Hawg Rider]

I just go for a total strip of the finish...and I prefer to use the more "green" finish remover products like Citristrip or Safenol. A non-metallic scraper and stiff brush work well to remove the old finish from the stocks and checkering. Follow up with a gentle soap and water wash and air dry. The stocks may require a little sanding to smooth them out for final finish application.

 

[weatherby]

Some pretty interesting results with the amalgamator on those 2 sets.

I didn't get too carried away and probably why they didn't come out perfect yet.
The light set already came out near perfect.
Just a hint remaining
The dark set is also much better.
I couldn't see any lines remaining until picturing.
I'm going to reapply tomorrow and recheck the results but color me impressed with the new tool.