Info Request and Wooden Grip Care

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Hello, I've recently acquired a "38 Smith and Wesson Special Ctg" revolver from a gun show. The finish is in relatively poor condition, but all of the serial numbers match, there is no rust and it is mechanically sound. It shoots very nicely. The serial number is 5006XX with no other markings or model number printed anywhere. It has the 5 screws and no hole for a butt swivel.



From my research, I believe it is a Model 1905, 4th change made sometime in 1925. My question is, am I correct in this identification and is there any other info that I might be missing? I have no intention of selling it but am also curious what this might be worth to see if I got a good deal or perhaps overpaid?



Final question: does anyone have advice on caring for the grips? I was considering trying to clean them with a toothbrush and then putting some raw linseed oil on to try and protect it, as the wood seems very dry, but figured I would ask before I did anything. Would this hurt the grips at all or would it be better for the "character" to leave them as is? Thank you all in advance and please excuse anything that comes across as uninformed, as I'm still new to it all and learning.



Thank you,
Gator8
 

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Welcome to the Forum. You have identified your revolver correctly and would likely have shipped in 1925. As you stated, the condition of the gun is somewhat worn and obviously either carried a lot in a holster or shot a lot or both. Chances are, however, that the revolver will shoot just fine. Stocks have worn checkering as well. I would not have the stocks professionally restored since they would not match the condition of the gun. Your idea of cleaning them and applying linseed oil is fine, but I would not use water since it can raise the grain of the wood. Use mineral spirits or paint thinner and a soft toothbrush to clean the stocks. Apply the mineral spirits and brush, then wipe with an old towel. Repeat this a couple of times and then set aside until dry. Make sure you use boiled linseed oil and apply to the stocks, let sit for a couple hours then wipe off excess especially in the checkering and let dry for a couple days. Repeat until you have a finish you like. I actually use compressed air to clear the excess oil from the checkering. Remember, these stocks were satin finish, so you do not want gloss finish but just enough finish to seal the wood. Below is what the finish should look like, as these stocks are original condition.

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Welcome to the Forum! You have landed at the best place for S&W advice and opinions.
I like to clean some grips, and these would likely be a candidate. Others here will disagree. My goal generally is to be the least invasive as possible, but to enhance appearance. I give some of mine a good bath with warm water and a grease cutting detergent, usually Dawn, using a toothbrush. Lots of crud usually comes off. If needed, I will chase the checking with a toothpick (again, just getting the dirt off). Then dry with paper towels and let them and air dry. They will now look terrible, but do not get upset. Apply a drop or two of boiled linseed oil (BLO), not raw linseed; raw linseed takes weeks to dry. Do both front and back. The toothbrush is great for spreading a small amount of BLO on the checkered area. Do this very sparingly, and after an hour or so wipe off all excess. You do not want to see any wet areas. Let them dry for several days, rubbing briskly with your fingers and thumbs each day. They should now look quite nice. You may want to add a bit more BLO as time goes on, but only tiny amounts that soak in completely, or things will get all gummed up for you. Note, stay away from solvents, strippers, and any abrasives. You are simply refreshing the original finish. When they are dry, apply a coat or two of Ren Wax or Johnsons paste wax (both front and back). I have read that the original factory finish back then was a mixture of BLO, turpentine, and beeswax (but the proportions are lost to history). This method will avoid damage to the wood and should give you a nice looking set of stocks in the end. Feel free to ask questions..... Others will have other suggestions I am sure, but this has worked well for me for years.
 
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