BARE METAL PROTECTION

[OLDSTER]

A friend has acquired a beautiful old pre-war M&P in .38sp. It has lost nearly all its blued finish, but has no rust ( just some light patina). He wants to leave it "in the bare", and asked me how to protect the bare steel. I suggested to get it all cleaned up, and apply a good wax. However, I'd like some expert comments and suggestions, so I can relay the info to him. Thank you in advance for your responses

 

[Wee Hooker]

There is likely some level of protection still ingrained in the surface of the metal but ....
With bare steel, it's hard to find a one time fix. It takes regular maintenance and attention to how you store it. Some might say Renaissance Wax but I've had great results (for decades) with CLP applied at least twice yearly. I'd suggest regular treatment with CLP and storage in a non absorbent silicone sock or foam lined case in a dry environment should keep him out of trouble.

 

[Arik]

I have a gun like that. It has a speck of bluing on the inside of the slide. I just used and oily rag to wipe it and the wrapped it in that rag. Been that way for about 5 years now and no rust

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[MichiganScott]

I'm a big fan of wax particularly in a working gun that might come in contact with rain, snow, sweaty hands, etc. However, I have found that wax alone will serve as a growth medium for mildew and mold if the humidity is high enough in the area where the guns are stored, so I end up wiping everything down with an oily rag. That seems to prevent both the mold and rust that occur during storage.

 

[ken158]

Rig is what I use and never an issue

 

[chief38]

Wax is fine if the Revolver won't be shot much, however wax will tend to burn off or come off when the gun is cleaned and will constantly need re-applications. If he is going to shoot it then I would suggest one of the popular rust preventatives. I use Rig Products (Rig #2 Oil, Rig Universal Grease and Rig +P Grease), but there are many good products to choose from. If he is going to make it a safe queen curio then I guess Renwax would be fine.

 

[Pisgah]

I have had an old, beaten-up, finish-bare M&P .38 for decades that I use as my tacklebox/rough duty gun. It's been carried on hikes and hunts in driving rain storms, dunked numerous times in creeks and ponds, and left for months at a time in the glove box of my truck. Not a speck of rust on it. I just give it a rubdown with a lightly-oiled rag from time to time -- and nothing fancy about the oil, just whatever's on hand.

 

[Troystat]

A few years ago (issue 227 in 2012) Fine Wood wood working magazine had an article with a test of products to see which protected best for bare metal, I would suggest looking that one up on line. The product they liked best was called CRC Industrial 3-36, regular wd-40 did well to. The tests they did found that waxes did not do well as a rust prevention.

 

[gwpercle]

Go with a Wax. Paste wax or one of the spray on products like Barricade (Birchwood Casey), Rust Prevent and WD40 Specialist (not regular WD40 the one marked Specialist )
The Sprays are waxes in an aerosol can.
These work the best. Not oily or greasy and will not dissipate. A good wax job makes the gun look good , like a wax job on you car does . I have used a pure non-cleaning automotive Carnauba paste wax with good results. Do not use a cleaning/polishing wax just a pure Carnauba like Mother's California Gold Pure Carnauba.
Gary

 

[iPac]

I have had an old, beaten-up, finish-bare M&P .38 for decades that I use as my tacklebox/rough duty gun. It's been carried on hikes and hunts in driving rain storms, dunked numerous times in creeks and ponds, and left for months at a time in the glove box of my truck. Not a speck of rust on it. I just give it a rubdown with a lightly-oiled rag from time to time -- and nothing fancy about the oil, just whatever's on hand.

I agree, any decent quality oil will do the job. You just have to do your diligence and keep giving it a wipe down when needed.

For a gun in storage, if you check on it routinely, the manner in which you store it is less important.

I find that wax works well for my purposes, but just like oil, I need to wipe down and reapply as necessary. However, for a gun that has lack of bluing, I go with oil (BreakFree), as I have seen the wax not work as well on bare steel, such as my Detective Special backstrap.

So in the case of the OP and a severely blue worn gun, I would go with a good oil.

 

[Warren Sear]

A wipe down with Breakfree CLP on a flannel rag will work wonders. Keep the rag in a ziplock bag between uses to keep it free from dust and grit and always at the ready. The gun surfaces should never be wet with oil. All that is needed is a very thin film.

 

[dfariswheel]

CLP Breakfree is well known for rust prevention.
Plus it helps loosen and remove any fouling that may have been missed, and lifts and removes oxidized bluing that dulls a finish.

Johnson's Paste Wax and the excellent but expensive Renaissance Museum Wax are very good.
A good use for these waxes is under the grips on the frame. Often this area rusts due to sweat and moisture seeping under.
Simply apply a medium-heavy coat of wax to the area covered by the grips Do not wipe it off, just let it dry 20 minutes then mount the grips.
Note that car wax does not work for this application.

In fact, car waxes are not very good for guns. It drys to a hard white film in areas where it's not wiped off, and many of them contain abrasives that can damage finishes.

One treatment that has a top reputation is Boeshield T9.
This is a liquid wax that when sprayed on has a carrier that quickly evaporates, leaving a coat of a wax. Apparently it's a form of paraffin wax.
Boeing Aircraft developed it for use inside sealed compartments like aircraft wings that can't be opened for any maintenance, but had to be rust proofed for the life of the aircraft.

The key to preventing rust on guns is to store it in an area where air is free to circulate.
Storage in closed or sealed areas, or damp areas like closets and basements are bad rust producers.
Properly stored most any rust prevention agent will work.

 

[ben_g1]

I've found its hard to beat good old Hoppe's gun oil. Sometimes thing are just way overthought.

Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared : Day At The Range

 

[Fostereast]

I don't think it matters much what's used as long as it's not WD-40. Applications that are wiped off or polished w/a rag seem to be best for me.

In my experience, the best anti-rust plan is apply a surface protective coating several times a year AND to keep the humidity below 53% where metal items are stored (I try for under 50% to be on the safe side). With the humidity in check, rust does not bloom on bare surfaces. I've been practicing this for about 10 yrs and no rust has formed on any surface in my shop. Prior to this I often ran into rust issues.

If I had to pick using a protective coating or a de-humidifier, I'd pick the de-humidifier.

 

[series guy]

Ballistol will protect your gun for short term or long term storage.

 

[PALADIN85020]

I keep a CLP-impregnated rag in a jar with a screw-on lid to wipe down guns for rust prevention.

Case in point is this as-manufactured U.S. Model 1842 musket, which is unfired since it left Springfield Armory in 1848. These were all issued "in the white." Needless to say, this is a valuable gun, worth keeping in excellent shape. All I have to do is wipe it down maybe once a year. Of course I live in Arizona, and the humidity here is way down.

John