Barrel Break In...Is it Necessary?

OK, just one more question and I'll be all set. What do you guys recommend for cleaning and oiling? I have an Otis universal cleaning kit with the vinyl covered cables, etc.
 
cant say much about the solvent I think that may depend more on the type ammo used(Lead or Jacketed) I use Break Free as my lube. I normally start my cleaning with a new brush NO SOLVENT, NO OIL (Dry brushes cut better)run it through the bore several times dry then I use an old brush with break free and finish with patches. The clean oil and solvent free brush will remove fouling better. Solvents will ruin brushes. Makes the bristles fall out over time. The solvents normally break down the brass bristles. Semi auto (barrels only) are done in the sink with mild solution of dish det and hot water (This seems to keep the brush cutting better). Dried and light coat of oil applied.

There have been many post here about the best solvents. Leadaway cloths and such.
 
I would recommend a rigid cleaning rod over a flexible one. I use Hoppe's copper solvent, and usually plug the end and fill the barrel. I let this stand about twenty minutes. Then I use a copper bristled brush and scrub, followed by Dawn dishwashing liquid with the brush. Rinse everything thoroughly. Spray with CLP, clean with a patch and jag.
 
Sir, FWIW, I wouldn't bother too much with a handgun barrel. For my match rifles, I do the whole "shoot one, clean, shoot another, clean" routine for 10 rounds or so and call it good. I don't notice any difference in accuracy from a barrel so treated, but it tends to clean up easier and faster. Less cleaning over the life of the barrel is a good thing. It's easier to screw up a barrel via cleaning than by shooting.

Hope this helps, and Semper Fi.

Ron H.
 
Now, blackpowder rifles and handguns do require a "seasoning" in order to make them easier to clean and help cut down on fouling. This is the only thing that I can think of as important.

Really, it's like seasoning an iron skillet. Once seasoned, it's easy to use and nothing sticks.
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Originally posted by GAT:
OK, just one more question and I'll be all set. What do you guys recommend for cleaning and oiling? I have an Otis universal cleaning kit with the vinyl covered cables, etc.

My opinion (you know about those, right?) is that the Otis is just fine, perhaps better than most, or even all. Although I have one, I find rod and brushes (often used both ways) more convenient, but I would never argue against an Otis. The whole thing is not a big deal. If you have fouling that won't come out with normal cleaning, perhaps Outer's is in order. Otherwise, just put the gun away clean and spend your time shooting. Some would properly argue that you don't even always need to put the gun away clean, although I would rather play it safe.
 
The only "official" word I have ever had regarding break in is in the manual that came with my Kimber Pro Aegis 2.

In my experience, new, tightly fitted 1911-style pistols need a few hundred rounds before everything settles in and works 100%. It's for reliability, not accuracy.


Okie John
 
I've only "broken in" one new barrel. It was on a Bushmaster DCM competion AR.

Did it do anything? I don't know. I'll tell you what I do know. Do as others have said here, clean it before you use it the first time. By this I mean "detail" clean it, get it "surgically" clean. Then as you use it, keep it that way. The only exception to this is never go for the "money shot" without a fouled barrel. A squeaky clean barrel while not fire on the first shot where a fouled one will.
 
I'll tell you what I do know. Do as others have said here, clean it before you use it the first time. By this I mean "detail" clean it, get it "surgically" clean. Then as you use it, keep it that way.
Pretty much what Charlie said. Start clean and keep it that way.

Far as any other "break in" is concerned, I have noticied that the trigger action on brand new revolvers -- Smiths, of course -- starts out good and gets better -- that is, smoother -- with use. I have never seen a revolver barrel that needed "breaking in."

Bill
 
Back when an AK-47 cost you about $225, I saw a friend take one out of the box, proceed to fire 6 -30 round mags through it and dump it in the snow to cool it off to keep shooting.

I think it might have improved its accuracy....

btw, catch the sarcasm here... don't ever break in your barrel like this a__hat
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Never noticed a difference on my handguns not being "broken in". I like Charlie's suggestions - clean and keep it that way!
 
On a new handgun I give it a good cleaning and run a hundred round's of jacketed thru it first to "smooth" out the barrel. Dont know if this work's but I feel better about it!
 
Kimber,in regards to the Target II 9mm, reccomends first 500 rounds through the gun be factory ball ammo with a barrel cleaning every 100 to 150 rounds, I think there is some validity to this especially if you are planning to shoot lead. The wear in with jacketed has to deliver somewhat of a polishing effect to the bore. I have spent time at the range with a bencrest shooter friend of mine who has to clean his rifle barrel every 15 rounds or so to maintain accuracy. Hope this helps.
 
Damn, Martian, too bad you don't live in Northern California. I have had the same inspiration, and I am certain we could, between us, discover, quantify and offer serious new data over the next couple of years...
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Papa Bill (as my grandkids now are a-calling me, as they grow older...)
 
There would be NO-Way I would shoot a new firearm without a 10 shot clean&shoot break-in, Been shooting for 30 yrs, rimfire-centerfire, long and handguns..........to me the onlyway Thanks
 
Not to beat a dead horse but, my Kimber Aegis 2 would not shoot to point of aim when I started the factory recommended 500 round break in. As I fired more and more, I found the POI getting closer and closer to POA. After about 600 rounds I am now consistently hitting at POA. Of course that probably has as much to do with learning the trigger as it does with "break in".

I hope that helps,

Frank
 
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