Barrel for 624 3"

[Muley Gil]

"I would not put a longer barrel on it
It defeats the purpose"

I've never figured out the purpose of a 3" N frame. It is too big for the majority of folks to pocket carry and it doesn't conceal as well as a 4", if carried in a good pancake holster.

The 4" barrel in a pancake holster allows the longer barrel to press against the hip, which pushes the butt towards the side. Shorter barreled handguns tend to just kinda flop to the outside.

Have you called the factory to see if they have any 3" or 4" barrels in stock?

 

[Grayfox]

Holy Smokes that's a beautiful handgun! Looks darn-near perfect. Would you mind sharing more photos of that revolver?

By the way, what is the rear sight on that revolver? If the height would work on the 624, I might try replacing the adjustable sight with one of those.

Thank you for the complement. Sorry, but this is currently the only pic I have available. I'm sure there are some more in my computer somewhere, but they will take time to hunt up.
As I said, I've been thoroughly happy with the way this one turned out. But it was a great deal of work. Mostly with the barrel That barrel was originally a 6" 25-2 .45acp barrel. I had to cut both ends as the shank was too long for a .45 Colt cylinder. That's also why it has a patridge front sight. It was on the original barrel and aftermarket stuff just didn't look right.
The rear sight is Cylinder & Slide's Extreme Duty fixed sight. It goes right on in place of the original adjustable sights. It worked out just fine for me and shoots to POA at 10 yards. I rarely shoot beyond that as this is simply a big bore belly gun.

 

[StrawHat]

I used a Model 28-2 as the basis for a 45 ACP revolver. Shipped the barrel off to have it bored and rifled for .452 bullets, fitted a new cylinder. When the barrel came back the shank was a bit short so took one thread off the shoulder. Then it was too long so trial and error until the cylinder fit. Remove and replace the frame lug so that was a proper fit to the new cylinder. Round the grip frame and I had a 4", tapered barrel, round butted, 45 ACP revolver when the factory was not offering them.

Kevin

 

[Muley Gil]

I used a Model 28-2 as the basis for a 45 ACP revolver. Shipped the barrel off to have it bored and rifled for .452 bullets, fitted a new cylinder. When the barrel came back the shank was a bit short so took one thread off the shoulder. Then it was too long so trial and error until the cylinder fit. Remove and replace the frame lug so that was a proper fit to the new cylinder. Round the grip frame and I had a 4", tapered barrel, round butted, 45 ACP revolver when the factory was not offering them.

Kevin

Except for the stainless steel construction, your converted M28 is what I consider the best fightin' revolver ever built. It took me a while, but I finally found a M625 Mountain Gun in .45 ACP.

 

[StrawHat]

Except for the stainless steel construction, your converted M28 is what I consider the best fightin' revolver ever built. It took me a while, but I finally found a M625 Mountain Gun in .45 ACP.

My blued one (Model 28-2) is my foothills revolver and one I carried on duty. The stainless is the Mountain Gun according to the factory. Both are swell!

But, the best for duty and my EDC is the Model 22-4!

Kevin

 

[jtcarm]

Option 5: send it to me for proper disposal.