Barrel issues

R6Daddio

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I have a M&P 2.0 9mm with a 4.25" barrel. I have put at least 2500 rounds through the gun. I went to clean it the other day and notice the crown looks serrated. I have had this gun for just over a year and bought it brand new. My wife has a M&P 2.0 9mm shield and she has no issues at all. Anyone come across this before?
 

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If it were mine, I would send it back to Smith & Wesson and request that they recrown and refinish the barrel.

Best of luck on whatever you decide to do.
 
Looks like op was shooting lead bullets or really dirty burning ammo and just needs to be cleaned up a little more around the crown. Unless those are steel shards that are around the crown, then that's a different issue, that S&W needs to address.
 
For me it looks like dirt (burnt powder, carbon) deposits. It's usually very visible "star" with lubed lead bullets.
 
Interesting that this is turning up after 2500 rds. I assume you've been cleaning regularly so this isn't just something that has gone unnoticed/been accumulating.
I say this because it seems more and more people want to "run a gun dirty" as long as they can as some form of test.

My experience from years ago: I had a M&P 40, bought brand new, that would literally strip through the jacket of the bullet (I only use FMJ in auto's) to a point that the lands and grooves in the bore would be virtually coated in silver and un-discernible. It only took about 2 mags to do this, and that was starting with a clean, well scrubbed bore... accuracy would go from normal expectation to minute-of-pie-plate in that time.
Smith's answer was that with some barrels the Melonite treatment isn't right, and it ends up being very abrasive. I sent it in, they sent a new one and problem eliminated.
I have one 1.0 Sheild & three 2.0 compact's now... a 4" & 3.6" in 9mm, and a 40. I do notice a silver look to the crown after shooting, as well as a bit of extra fouling in the bore (moreso than my PPQ's, Glocks, P320, FN 509 or Caniks).... but accuracy never suffers no matter how many rounds in a session, and it cleans up with minimal effort.
 
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So not wanting S&W to laugh at me, and me being relatively new to this, I did strip the gun and gave it a really good cleaning. Much better than what I thought a good cleaning means. I put solvent on/in the barrel and got out my wire brushes and went to town. Yes it needed a very good cleaning and thanks everyone for their helpful advice and not ridiculing me. There is still a bunch of nicks on the inside of the crown. Is this or could this become an issue? I only have my Sig to compare barrels and the Sig is completely smooth, except of course in the barrel. Thanks again and I’m sure I will be posting more questions as time goes on.
 
The crown is pretty much the key to accuracy. I've had "bad" bores... IE serious "chatter" marks/machining damage, but a perfect crown and the guns didn't have any accuracy issues. In fact, out of the 10-12 Browning Hi-Powers I've owned, the most accurate one had a one inch area of a land missing mid-bore, but was crazy accurate. A Smith 639 I had 20 or so years ago also had some serious gouges in the lands/groves midbore, but shot well.
On the other hand, a Ruger GP100, that was new and flawless except for a mis-machined (uneven) crown, shot like ****.

You never mentioned what kind of accuracy you have with it... how does it shoot? Is it acceptable accuracy for you?
Whether you have damage to the crown or not could be irrelavant if you find the accuracy ok. just my thoughts.
 
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There is still a bunch of nicks on the inside of the crown. Is this or could this become an issue?

The answer to that is "Maybe".

How does it group?

If it shoots accurately, leave it alone.
 
I've personally had a very good experience with C4 carbon remover - I use it to soak my rimfire suppressor baffles and after a day of soaking most of the carbon can be just wiped off with paper towel. Full disclosure: I don't know how it affects blued parts, cause I've only used it on stainless. Try soaking it in hoppe's or kroil and scrub with nylon brush.
 
It would be interesting to see photos of the "nicks" you mention NOW, after you've thoroughly cleaned the barrel.

With most guns, the crown area will not be perfectly smooth, as the rifling (lands and grooves) will make it seem jagged (but in a very uniform sort of way.)

The NICKS you describe may be normal and appropriate.

It's only in those guns with polygonal type barrels (like a Glock, that the crown looks smooth) as you get into the barrel area.

You might want to consider downloading some 8"x11" targets from any number of sites on the internet and use those for your practice. That way you can print them out on a home computer (cheaply) and limit the number of rounds on target. When the target gets so many holes in it, and you trying to assess accuracy, it's hard to tell whether the problems are YOU or the GUN.
 
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I also believe what you're seeing is normal crud build-up and can mostly clean off. I shoot my M&Ps a lot in weekly steel matches, USPSA and IDPA matches. The gun I run the most is a Performance Center with a 5"barrel. I don't clean the gun very often because I want to see if it will stop running.

My experience with accuracy of my M&Ps is up to 10 yards they group OK but when I run a target out to 20 yds. longer distance the groups widen dramatically even if I use a sand bag rest. The barrels are fairly loose fit to the slide so the gun will keep running.

I also run all factory ammo but is the cheap stuff. Not all the ammo is jacketed; some appears to be copper washed. I just checked my barrel and it has nothing like the OP's appearance.

I vote for calling S&W to see what they say.
 
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I did get in touch with S&W today and showed them pictures of the barrel. I did take new ones after it was cleaned. They agreed that it didn't look right and want me to send them my gun.
 
I did get in touch with S&W today and showed them pictures of the barrel. I did take new ones after it was cleaned. They agreed that it didn't look right and want me to send them my gun.

They'll make it right. I've had to send my 45 Shield about a month ago, turn around was less than a month.
 
Yeah, the folks at S&W would enjoy a good laugh.

Seriously -- get a good bronze brush and some cleaning solvent, and clean the barrel. That is lube and lead deposit.

I didn't see the gun in person and couldn't inspect it, but my response is based on this comment;

I shoot all brass FMJ and yes that is steel shardes

Therefore some cleaning solvent wouldn't fix the issue, would it?!

Edit:

I've shot way more that 2,500rds through mine, from copper plated to hard cast aluminum, and mine don't look like that.
 
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Get a shipping label so shipping is free .

NOTE on ammo . Some cheap FMJ specially 9mm is BIMETAL meaning you have a lead core - soft steel shell over the lead and a extremely thin layer of copper washed over the exterior . It will not hurt a bore but can leave a different looking muzzle to clean up . Enough build up is hard to remove .
 
This is 100 rounds at 5,7 and 10 yards.

Being at 5, 7, and 10 yards, that target I would call
"inconclusive", as to whether any muzzle defects are
affecting accuracy. Like WR said, that's a bit close to
make a judgement call.

Can you do some smaller groups, say, five shots--at
15 and 25 yards?

If you're new to shooting and still learning the fundamentals,
can you get someone with more experience to shoot a few
groups, from a rest?

Edit: Are you by chance using an aluminum cleaning rod--
that has a fatter aluminum "nut" at end of rod? Might just
be the pics, but it looks like aluminum smears on muzzle,
to me.
 
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