i can't see a bit of day light in there. The cylinder rotates freely except it drags on one chamber. It looks like the ratchet is dragging on the inner part of the recoil shield. What is the fix? Thanks in advance.
Barrel to Cylinder Gap, 31-1
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Alk8944
US Veteran
Before doing anything else, have you checked the end-shake, the fore-aft movement of the cylinder? Can you push the cylinder back in the frame and then see any clearance in the B-C gap?
If there is more than .002" end-shake install one or more end-shake bearings in the cylinder to get end-shake no less than .002". End shake bearings are available from Brownell's.
If there is more than .002" end-shake install one or more end-shake bearings in the cylinder to get end-shake no less than .002". End shake bearings are available from Brownell's.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
The ratchets are supposed to be recessed about .005 below the boss in the middle that has the center pin in it. The center boss is the only thing that should touch the recoil shield.
If you can't see daylight between the cylinder and barrel, the cylinder is too far forward. It may have some endshake that need to be taken out.
If you can't see daylight between the cylinder and barrel, the cylinder is too far forward. It may have some endshake that need to be taken out.
OP
That's the odd part. No end shake. One thing I just did...a .002 gauge goes in from the left side but not the right side. don't have a .001. It only drags on that one chamber, like one arm of the ratchet is high (to the rear).
Yoke opens freely and ejector is straight.
Yoke opens freely and ejector is straight.
Protocall_Design
Vendor
It's most likely that the front of the cylinder is slightly out of square. It would take about 5 minutes to square it up on a good lathe so all the chambers have equal gap. The back of the barrel may be out of square as well. Still an easy fix with the right tools.
I would suggest that it was not fit correctly in the first place.
The barrel extensions are many times cut by hand... by fitters...with a file. Which means they are not perfect.
Facing cutters are available for the purpose of truing the barrel extension to the correct distance from the cylinder, and at the correct angle, 90° to the bore.
The barrel extensions are many times cut by hand... by fitters...with a file. Which means they are not perfect.
Facing cutters are available for the purpose of truing the barrel extension to the correct distance from the cylinder, and at the correct angle, 90° to the bore.
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OP
Trued up the barrel extension so it's .003 from both sides. Still dragging on one chamber.
OP
The picture that's worth a thousand words. Looks like the ratchet is rubbing. A little back ground. I bought the gun with a broken hammer spur. It probably happened when it was very new as the gun had no wear on it other than the spur. All the wear on the recoil shield happened since I got it.
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Pisgah
Member
The ejector rod or crane may be slightly bent.
Can you check the rear gauge or headspace? Looks like some contact up around the hammer nose bushing too.....and perhaps the hand window as well.
The round, shiny area around the center pin hole is from the boss on the extractor, as previously pointed out.
Carter
The round, shiny area around the center pin hole is from the boss on the extractor, as previously pointed out.
Carter
OP
Morning project. Will report.
OP
Progress Report
After close inspection I found a very slight burr on the aft surface of one of the ratchet teeth and slight irregular surface of the boss. I dressed out the rear surface of the ratchet tooth with fine sand paper and 0000 steel wool on the boss. I also tried to dress the right edge of the hand slot. Not much success there but it does not seem to be a problem Got all the oil from the recoil shield and put some cold blue on the worn areas as a witness. Put it back together and the action is consistent on all chambers. And no further wear on the recoil shield.
Just to make things a little nicer I'm going to lighten the hammer spring a little.
Thank you Armorer951 , Protocall_Design and all for the help.
After close inspection I found a very slight burr on the aft surface of one of the ratchet teeth and slight irregular surface of the boss. I dressed out the rear surface of the ratchet tooth with fine sand paper and 0000 steel wool on the boss. I also tried to dress the right edge of the hand slot. Not much success there but it does not seem to be a problem Got all the oil from the recoil shield and put some cold blue on the worn areas as a witness. Put it back together and the action is consistent on all chambers. And no further wear on the recoil shield.
Just to make things a little nicer I'm going to lighten the hammer spring a little.
Thank you Armorer951 , Protocall_Design and all for the help.
ColbyBruce
Member
OP, want to do another one?
OP
ColbyBruce
Member
Colby, as soon as I figure out this Remington 24 and 241.
My oldest grandson, sitting on the tire, likes anything with the word "magnum" on it. I have a nickel 30-1 and two blue 31-1 revolvers (one pinned, one not) and a 31-2 snubbie so I figure rechambering one of the blue ones would please him.
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Bullseye Smith
Member
It has crud under the extractor, tear down and give everything a cleaning, DON'T cut the cylinder face!!!!! Could be a bent extractor rod as well.
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