This is a really.....
This is a really cool thread. Tons of info.
This is a really cool thread. Tons of info.
Basic Dies For Pistol Ammo on Progressive Loaders
- Thread starter B's640
- Start date
Jeff423
US Veteran
That's a nice looking die and may work very well, but its for the resizing/decapping station and does not provide any "flare" for bullet seating.
Jeff
Thanks to all who have offered me their advice. I called Hornady and spoke to them for some clarification and now I get it. As smokindog alluded to, the powder drop station can do double duty as both powder drop and case expander for bullet seating prep. This Powder Through Expander (PTX) is not a die, but rather an optional insert that is changed according to the caliber needed. Goes inside the measure adapter with case activated powder drop, in the powder drop station. I know you guys already knew this, but now I understand it better.
To answer some of yous guys question to me, yes I decided on the Hornady LNL AP. I ordered the basic unit today. I will start off without the fancy extra stuff and learn the press and set-ups at the simplest level. I at least now know enough to begin ordering what I actually need. Thanks again to all
To answer some of yous guys question to me, yes I decided on the Hornady LNL AP. I ordered the basic unit today. I will start off without the fancy extra stuff and learn the press and set-ups at the simplest level. I at least now know enough to begin ordering what I actually need. Thanks again to all
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BigBill
Absent Comrade
I'm old school. I decap, resize, cut the case length to size if needed, clean out the primer pocket. Before it goes into the progressive press I install the primers. Then they go into the progressive press to be charged and loaded.
Don't forget to purchase the carbide handgun caliber dies.
Don't forget to purchase the carbide handgun caliber dies.
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Squarebutt
Member
One more thing to remember: You'll be a happier camper if you buy die sets designed for a progressive, rather than the standard three-die pistol sets. On a progressive, the expanding (belling) of the case mouth is performed by the powder drop tube, not an expander die. Also, most progressives seat and crimp the bullet at different stations. You mentioned Redding, and they make very good dies. Their "Pro Series" is what you want. Hornady and Dillon have similar sets. I use Dillon pistol dies and mostly Redding rifle dies in my Dillon 550B. Good luck and let us know how it's going.
smokindog
Member
Don't forget, you DO need the Quick Change Powder Die to use the PTX inserts at the powder drop station, IF you want to go that route!
Are you referring to the lower assembly of the Case activated powder drop? This is fig.21 in the LNL AP manual, pg. 11.
smokindog
Member
I don't use it, was just quoting from the documentation.. Sorry, thought I made that clear but now you've got me curious 
Twoboxer
Member
Good thinking on starting with the "basics" and adding as you learn/grow/need. I would, however, advise considering:
- (a) the PTX expanders as part of your "basics" . . . IOW, buy the caliber specific expanders you need, or a universal one (I've never used that one). You need to bell the cases, start out the right way.
- (b) a Powder Check Die as part of your basics . . . everyone has their own favorite, but the Hornady Check Die works best on the LnL AP because it will not get in the way of the Powder Measure/Linkage/Die assembly it must sit next to. The RCBS die (eg) has an off-center stalk sticking up that will force you to insert that die at a particular time and in a particular way to get it past the PM-et-al.
- (c) buy 2 cans of the Hornady One Shot Cleaner that your LnL AP's instructions call for to clean the press and PM (yes, the PM too). Using the "right" cleaner will not leave you wondering was it my cleaner that caused my issues? or my cleaning? After you get started, use any cleaner you want.
- Once you get started, focus on keeping the primer slide AND THE PRIMER PUNCH very clean.
- Make certain the primer punch retracts fully back into its housing - this may take several flushings of cleaner to achieve. The press comes with one installed under the subplate . . . remove it, clean it, reinstall it as part of the initial prep work.
- If powder starts popping out of your cases as the press indexes (likely with 38, probable with 45), adjust the ball bearings in the shellplate so they don't protrude as much by tapping them in with a punch (if you go too far, turn the plate over and tap back from the other side). Once the bearings settle lovingly into their detents instead of snapping, the powder popping will stop
And don't hesitate to ask here (or call Hornady as you've discovered) if/when you have any other issues with your new press.
GLHF stay safe.
smokindog
Member
So you made me go out to my room and it appears the press came with everything but the proper expander inserts Like I said, I just started with the 3 die sets for most of my work! I "added" from there.
Powder Drop Expander and Die Setup - YouTube
Like I said, I just started with the 3 die sets for most of my work! I "added" from there.Powder Drop Expander and Die Setup - YouTube
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Autoloader cartridges like the 45acp use a taper crimp. Revolver cartridges (.38 spl, .44 spl, and 357 mag) use a roll crimp.B's640 said:
Some pistol die sets contain (a) carbide sizing & decapping die, (b) a combination bullet-seater and crimp die. The carbide sizer eliminates the need for case lube.
Combo seater/sizing dies require a 2-step setup process (1) to get the bullet seated to the correct depth and (2) to get the proper crimp. Many die manufacturers now offer separate seating and crimping dies (much better IMO).
Both Redding and Lee have mandrel-type crimping dies that will make a strong roll crimp without the need for trimming brass to exact length. Far superior to the standard roll crimp dies.
B's640 said:
No.
The process normally goes:B's640 said:
- Resizing & depriming
- case mouth flaring (what you call expanding) and powder charging.
- Bullet seating
- Crimping
This usually requires 4 dies mounted on a tool head, or 3 dies if the combo seating/crimping is used. So the Lee Classic Turret is a 4 die press, the older Lee turret is a 3 die. The Dillon SDB is a 4 die press. The Dillon 550 is a 4 die press whereas the 650 is a 5 die press.
B's640 said:
You're missing the case mouth flaring and powder charge die - you really have 5 die process there.
Everything you WANT can be done with the Dillon 650. Everything you NEED can be done with the Lee Classic Turret. Quite a spread in price between the two, but I use them as extremes.
If you are comfortable shelling out $1000, then the 650 will make you smile. The Lee setup 1/5 the cost, 1/4 the speed.
Choice of press comes down to how much ammo you need to produce and the value of your time doing it. You can always go slow with a fast machine.
Well as I mentioned above someplace, I ordered a Hornady LNL AP. I plan to order for .38 spl and 45 auto, Redding "Pro Series" 3 die sets, Hornady PTX inserts for each, a Hornady powder cop, and shell plates. I still have to build the bench where it will go, so I'm not in a great hurry.
I should probably post this question in a different thread, but here goes anyways.
I'm in the process of finishing out a room by my barn which will become my gun room/gun work bench, and reloading space. The floor is poured concrete. I plan to cover over the concrete with something. I considered using some second hand industrial carpet tiles, but am thinking they might encourage static electricity. So I'm wondering if you reloading gurus have a recommendation for flooring over concrete? I also thought to use "Advantech" subflooring, and just paint that.
I'm in the process of finishing out a room by my barn which will become my gun room/gun work bench, and reloading space. The floor is poured concrete. I plan to cover over the concrete with something. I considered using some second hand industrial carpet tiles, but am thinking they might encourage static electricity. So I'm wondering if you reloading gurus have a recommendation for flooring over concrete? I also thought to use "Advantech" subflooring, and just paint that.
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Bkreutz
US Veteran
I think you'll find the rubber "fatigue mats" to be easier on the feet and legs. If you're worried about static electricity, you could do what I do and ground the reloading press, this prevents any buildup of static electricity in the press (and anything else on the bench). Maybe overkill but it's pretty easy to do. The floor in my shop is concrete coated with epoxy floor covering.
Bkreutz
US Veteran
I put down 2 coats, my concrete floor has a moisture barrier between the crushed stone layer and the concrete so moisture is not a problem. "Winter" has a somewhat different definition in Seattle, it might get below freezing 2 or 3 days a year (not complaining
) so I have no real experience with winter the way most places experience it. Picture below gives you an idea what it looks like.Attachments
This is not a football game. Take you time. Learn at YOUR pace. It saves big money and perhaps disappointment in the long run. You're doing things just fine.
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