Beauty and a beast. Or my model 64's

Kaedan

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Testing out if I can attach albums.
Two recent pickups. A model 64 no dash, that looks anib and a 64-2 from VA DoC...that has seen some living. Haven't figured out if/how I'm gonna clean up the -2. The no dash is going to be a safe queen since there is really no discernible turnline on the cylinder, and I have the original box and paperwork

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Excellent "no dash"! The snubby would look much better with a little polishing but some of the scratches on the side plate look pretty deep. I picked up a CDC marked 2" 64 a couple years ago that showed similar wear but it cleaned up nicely with some Flitz and an old T-shirt.

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Excellent "no dash"! The snubby would look much better with a little polishing but some of the scratches on the side plate look pretty deep. I picked up a CDC marked 2" 64 a couple years ago that showed similar wear but it cleaned up nicely with some Flitz and an old T-shirt.

That looks good! Flits and a T huh? I will have to try that. I don't mind some wear but I would like to make it a bit more "presentable", particularly when I start carrying it. The deeper spots I was considering some 1000 grit sandpaper. I may just throw my hands up and send it for a head blast too.
 
Is the label on the box upside down? If so, that's a first for me.

It is indeed an upside down label. I will take better pics of the box and the documentation tonight after I get some sleep. Graveyard is a bear on the normal human sleeping thing.
 
I think the 64-2 would "clean up" fairly nice. If you decide to try to get rid of the scratches yourself you need to decide if you want the original brushed finish or a polished finish.

You can touch up the finish on a brushed finish stainless steel and fix significant scratches with Scotch Brite pads.

There are basically three types of finish for stainless steel:
1. Brushed. This is the original finish on your model 64-2. You can see fine linear polishing marks in the surface. Scotch Brite pads come in different levels of coarseness.
Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400)
Work in a small area with tiny (1" square) piece of pad and stroke in one direction only following the linear polishing direction from the factory. Avoid any surfaces but the brushed stainless surfaces. Generally the green pad can be used for all applications varying the pressure dependent upon the degree of the scratch you attempting to fix but you might want to start with the maroon pad and use it until the main scratches are about 90% removed. Then move to the green pads to nearly finish off the scratches, and then finish off with the light grey pad. Look at You Tube for examples of how to do it or further research the S&W Forum.
2. You could also go for a bright polished finish. You can achieve this with a polishing compound like Flitz (there's others), soft rags, elbow grease, and a lot of time. Or you can use power tools. I'm not much for taking power tools to S&W revolvers but the side plate is scratched up enough you might consider it.
3. A third option would be bead blasted to give a dull uniform appearance but unless you have experience and the tools for this you would need to turn a bead blasted job over to someone else.

John
 
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That -2 is a beautiful revolver. The snubbie will come right after a little TLC.
 
Just checked my box stash. My 64 no dash and 1979 64-3 boxes are labeled upside down also. Had never really noticed that before. As noted it must have been the norm.

That no dash is a beauty. Congrats on finding a stellar example.
 
All these upside down labels. Who knew? I think of all the boxes I've looked at and never noticed. And I'm kind of a label junkie. Going forward I'm going to pay better attention.
 
Prewar and immediate postwar boxes had labels that were rightside up when the box was closed (see first picture below). But so far as I know all the two piece blue boxes (postwar) had them upside down (second photo). At least that's the way it is in my collection.
The story I heard many years ago was that it facilitated display. When the gun was displayed in the box, the top would be slipped under the bottom with the gun still inside. With the label mounted the way it was, the information would be readable from outside the display case, with the gun clearly visible, nestled inside its box. I remember as a kid seeing Smiths displayed this way. Nowadays, no one displays guns in the box, but back then nearly everyone did. At least in the part of the country I grew up in.
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I don't want to sound dumb, but is the front sight on the no dash 4 incher a factory a factory original? I've never come across one like that before.
 
I'm assuming that it is the original front sight. It is machined into the barrel and looks exactly like the front sight on my model 10. I did put a little black paint on the sight before I decided to make it a safe queen.
 
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