Bending decapping pins

[3-Liter]

I just started reloading again after 25+ years. Using a RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press with lyman carbide dies[same one I used years ago without ever breaking a pin]. Loading 38 Special and I am bending the decapping pins. The first one I guessed was not aligning the case properly in the shell holder, but after 2 more I decided that was not it. I even replaced the pin and the long holder that it sets in with the same results. Have looked for debris in cases. I checked the press for bending or damage to the frame, and found none. Any suggestions, I want to reload but cannot do it until what is bending these pins.

 

[Skip Sackett]

Two things jump into mind right away. One is a stuck case inside the 38spl, say a 9mm or something and some Berdan primed cases. Look inside and see if there is one hole or two. If there are two, you need different cases to load. Other than that, I am drawing a blank right now.

Have to think about it for a bit.

 

[Rule3]

That is weird?? Is there even Berdan primed 38 spl?
What headstamp is on your brass? Any American will be ok, Win, Rem Fed etc.
Is the hole in the shell holder blocked with something?

 

[James57]

I have broken a few pins in my time. A few lessons I have learned. Slow and easy is better at the deprime station. Let the press leverage work for you and don't try to "chop" the primer out. Developing a feel with the depriming part of the sequence is as important as developing a feel at the priming sequence. If you are going slow you can feel an out of the ordinary amount of pressure being needed--stop right there and back off and slowly try it again. If it developes again stop and check the case out for an off center flash hole or smaller than usual primer hole, either of which can cause a broken pin if in too big of a hurry. If the decapping rod is not tightened good, it can work loose under usage and allow the pin to wobble a little and lead to a pin not entering the flash hole at the right angle. Also, adjust the depriming pin just enough to push the primer out and no further. The longer the pin sticks out, the more easy it is to break. Just suggestions and may or may not cure your problem. Short of looking over you set-up, we're only trouble shooting blind. Hope it help anyway, James

 

[Fredo Batali]

I went to a LEE carbide sizer for all the calibers I hand load. You can't break the decapping pin! It simply pushes up into the die body, loosen the lock nut, reposition the pin, tighten the lock nut, and you're back in business. It really works for me and I don't get the "waist" on my cases I get with the RCBS carbide resizer dies.

De Oppresso liber

 

[chingachkook]

Is this the same case that's breaking all those pins or have you tried a different case? I ask because I once broke a pin on a pebble that was wedged in the flash hole in a range pick-up piece of brass.

 

[3-Liter]

All once fired cases, mostly S&W. Happened on 4-6 different cases. I am a mechanic by trade and I have looked for anything that is not lined up correctly and found nothing. I know you cannot do much without seeing the loader but I was just hoping for an answer. Thank you, 3-Liter

 

[m1gunner]

Try another shell holder. Some of them aren't 100% concentric. Couple that with a slightly off flash hole and there goes your pin.

 

[max]

I learned that you can use a 30-06 assembly and pin in a 38 case. It is about twice the size and hard to break.

 

[Steve C]

Check to make sure you are using the correct shell holder as the wrong one may fit the case but the primer may not center.

 

[epj]

My only pin bending/breaking problems in RCBS/Lyman dies have been the result of a loose pin. Recently I have started using Lee dies, and they are nearly impossible to break a pin in. However, I did accomplish the impossible on a case with a small gravel in it. I now have a couple of spare Lee pins.

 

[JohnnieB]

If the decapping function of your Lyman decapping/sizing die turns out to be the culprit and you wish to continue using it for sizing only, this might be the answer.

Lee Universal Depriming and Decapping Die - MidwayUSA

Basically, it is their decapping/sizing die without the caliber specific carbide inserts installed. Inexpensive and one size fits all.

 

[Maximumbob54]

I second what many have already said. Drop that Lyman zero and buy a Lee hero!!! Seriously, I joke but as long as you set the toque just right on a Lee decapping die, it is impossible to break. The universal is nice if you want to clean your brass prior to sizing, but that is the only thing it is good for in my head. I won't get into the Factory Crimp Die they make, but I will admit that I use it. I would recommend you buy a set of Lee Carbide dies in the four set and read the directions for set up. I love mine and I think they produce great reloads. I bought mine though MidwayUSA and couldn't be happier unless I had got them for free. I also very much endorse the Lee Classic Turret with all the available add-on's. I also have the Rock Chucker and I will keep it for loading rifle only because I want to get down to the slower single stage for learning to load rifle. It may just go back to holding the universal decapping die once I realize that reloading rifle is pretty much the same thing as handgun.

EDIT: The Lee Universal depriming die is a "One size fits ALOMST all..." I think the .22 Hornet or something tiny tot doesn't work and no, you can't use it with .50 BMG either. There is a small list that it doesn't work with but I want to emphasize SMALL LIST...

 

[bobf]

Is there even Berdan primed 38 spl?

There are some probably not many.
Bob

 

[Rule3]

There are some probably not many.
Bob

Empresa Nacional Santa Barbara de Industrias Militares S.A., Palencia (Spain) 1983

S <--(Click here for AFTE headstamp web site)

Great picture, thanks!