Bent hammer 10-5

[serger]

Last week on GB a 10-5 was listed: "For auciton is this Smith and
Wesson 10-5 revolver chambered in .38 S&W Spl. The work
needed is the hammer will not lock back/stay cocked when pulled.
The hammer will cycle back then forward when the trigger is
pulled. This is an as-is no returns auction and the buyer should
assume the revolver is unsafe to shoot until repaired by a
professional. The overall cosmetic condition is fair, it has some
blue wear and slight rust. Rifling is clean and bright. Serial
number is C793538."

I have a weakness for "problem" guns so I bid on it. Won the
auction. Picked it up yesterday for $224.00 out the door.

Got it home and looked it over. In really bright light I could see
a slight bulge in the base of the hammer spur. In trying to
single action cock it, the spur would hit the frame just before
the trigger engaged the single action hammer notch. I carefully
ground thru the case hardening on the bottom of the spur until
it would cock with about .010" clearance between the hammer
and frame. That fixed problem 1.

Problem 2 was the neglect it had in it's 53 year life. I sprayed
the disassembled gun with penetrating oil and let the parts sit
while I worked on the hammer. When I finished fitting hammer
and trigger I took some bronze wool and scrubbed the parts.
When reassembled it looks good. No cylinder play, no end shake
and cylinder gap .004".

Problem 3 is the chipped right stock. That is beyond my skill set.

It has 50 year old dresser drawer sliding around wear/scratches.
I'm very happy with that given the mechanical condition is
"about new".

Now I've got 4 questions for folks who know stuff:

1. I "ASSume" 6" barrels are a detraction on model 10's. Any
ballpark ideas as to percentage of Model 10's with that length?

2. SN of C793538 looks like June/July 1965. Anybody have a SWAG
time frame closer than that?

3. I always thought hammers were brittle enough they snapped
when guns were dropped on them. Other than heating, is it
possible to bend hammers back in correct condition?

4. I can't remember who the gentleman is that fixes damaged
stocks. Who is he?



Thanks, serger

 

[UncleEd]

Just a wandering/wondering thought: Could the
hammer pin be slightly out of "true," that is a
perfect 90 degrees to the frame.

Any rubbing on the hammer sides, particularly
on the side which was "filed" down?

 

[Trooper Joe]

There are a lot of model 10's out there. You picked this up at a great price so if it was me, I would have a good gun smith fix the hammer problem (new hammer, etc.).

Then install a set of new or after market grips on it then shoot it and then shoot it some more .

My model 10 heavy barrel that was issued to me in 1966 as a new Trooper, is still probably making someone happy. Was always sorry I did not buy that from the Department. Had to buy an almost unused one (made on the early 80's) a couple of years ago. Think I paid $500 for it.

Trooper Joe

 

[RMFnLA]

Hammers don't always break when dropped; they are forged so they will take a bit of abuse.

Get a replacement; I see them on eBay all the time for pretty good prices since everyone wants the target versions.

 

[kthom]

I personally don't see a need to replace that hammer except for possibly cosmetic reasons. You should be able to use some good cold blue to cover the area underneath that trigger spur acceptably, I'd think? Unless for some reason the revolver does not function/fire as it should, it seems to me that you will have the problem fixed. I understand about cosmetic issues. That's a decision only you can make for yourself. I'd think your work will be in keeping with the balance of the cosmetic condition of that dandy revolver!

 

[H Richard]

The chip in the stock cam be fixed by DWFAN. But, he has a pretty good backlog, and the cost will be close to the price of a nice used set off ebay, (but wouldn't be numbered to the gun). You could find a close colored old beat up grip and create sawdust from it and mix with glue and build up the chipped out area and stain to match. Essentially how it would be repaired.

 

[serger]

kthom you are right. Cosmetically you can't really see what I did
and Oxpho-Blue is your friend. I do need to stone the hammer
some more to get the hammer frame gap a little wider.

H Richard, I'm going to dig around on this site for a repair tutorial
on using wood dust and staining the stocks. then I'll go to the net
and look. I'm sure there is one, just haven't looked.

FWIW, with ammunition loaded to what the gun was made for,
I am going to use Pachmayr grips to save my hands a little. I
should load some 148gr wad cutters for plinking with but haven't
yet.

 

[Toyman]

I have a model 10 C722XXX shipped February 1965.
Look for a set of grips will cost more to fix that buy a slightly used pair.

 

[kthom]

kthom you are right. Cosmetically you can't really see what I did
and Oxpho-Blue is your friend. I do need to stone the hammer
some more to get the hammer frame gap a little wider.

FWIW, with ammunition loaded to what the gun was made for,
I am going to use Pachmayr grips to save my hands a little. I
should load some 148gr wad cutters for plinking with but haven't
yet.

You did a great job as far as I can see on removing a bit of steel from the underside of that trigger! Looks great to me. And if the revolver works well, more the better! Wadcutters are just plain fun to shoot. I'd about as soon shoot wads through any of my revolvers chambered for them as to shoot my .22LR revolvers. But as you say, your's should also handle up to +P loaded rounds just fine for serious business. You have a dandy fine revolver!

 

[kthom]

kthom you are right. Cosmetically you can't really see what I did
and Oxpho-Blue is your friend. I do need to stone the hammer
some more to get the hammer frame gap a little wider.

FWIW, with ammunition loaded to what the gun was made for,
I am going to use Pachmayr grips to save my hands a little. I
should load some 148gr wad cutters for plinking with but haven't
yet.

You did a great job on your work to clear that hammer tip from the frame. As long as the revolver functions properly, you should be good to go. I have more than one Model 10-5 revolvers and they are dandy fine revolvers. So should yours be! And shooting wadcutters is just plain fun. I'd as soon shoot them as any of my .22LR revolvers at targets or rabbits or tin cans! Your revolver will also handle any loads up to and including +P for more serious needs or wants. You've got a great older S&W which is always a treasure!

 

[serger]

kthom, I was leary of the hammer fix and yesterday fitted another cylinder
on it (one that wasn't scratched up). Today I shot it testing both. I ran a
box of 158gr SWC's thru it without a problem.It shot to point of aim.
Toward the end the cylinder was dragging a little.
.003" is too tight a cylinder gap. I always wondered about that.

So when I got home I opened it up to .006". It's supposed to be in the
teens tomorrow but if the wind isn't too bad I'll try and run another box.

I'm very happy I took the chance on it. Now I have to learn
wood bondo. I learned that with cars, I guess stocks are sorta
the same +/-.