Beretta knife - sticks - 3 in 1 or WD-40

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No picture, yet, but this is a Beretta stag handled lockback with two "blades", one being a gut hook, the other a standard clip point blade.

This knife, among many others, got soaked and smoked in my 2019 fire. They were all cleaned and then stored at my FFL's home until recently. I want to use this knife but the blade is VERY hard to release. I can press that lock at the base of the spine HARD and it's still a bear to get the blade to release to close.

So, I have been treating it with with 3 in 1 oil. It is starting to loosen up.

My question is, obviously, do you think I should keep up the 3 in 1 treatment or spray it with WD-40? Or should I have started with WD-40?

My father used 3 in 1 oil for everything. Until the fire mentioned above I still had a very small, old can of his 3 in 1 oil. ;)
 
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WD40 leaves a residue that may become 'gummy' after time.
A few Years back, I started using a CLP (Remoil, Break Free, etc) on everything I used to use WD40 for... Guns, Knife hinges/locks, Squeaky door hinges, everything. :)
 
I did as suggested on a knife forum old pocket knives soak and clean with dish soap . Then blow out with compressed air, lube and blow out again . I have done this a couple pocket knives that were gritty and lost snap it works . I used mineral oil and couple cans electronics duster also read some use spray lube , 3 in 1.
 
The two best things about WD40 are the spray quill and the fact it is universally available. It was developed as a water displacer. Its lubricating qualities are incidental, not all that great but often good enough.

It is 3-in-1 that can leave a gooey residue. I was raised on the stuff but there are better, cheaper products. Food grade mineral oil is hard to beat. Cheap, odorless, and it won't contaminate food.

When my knives get sticky, I flush the joint with WD40, then use a drop of mineral oil. For a knife that is really caked up, start with hot water and soap or detergent. Blow it out if you have compressed air, then chase the moisture with WD40. Follow that with a drop of mineral oil, or the lube of your choice.

It's not rocket science, however. A lot of products will do the trick. Wash out the crud, then lubricate.
 
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Was using some 3in1 on a fishing reel yesterday and was reading the label and see where it is owned by the same company as WD-40. Did the WD-40, blow out with compressed air, and 3in1 recently on a fly reel that had some internal issues with a bearing area getting some corrosion. a lot of crud came out with the WD40. Has worked well. Several treatments and working the mechanism has brought it back. Also keep both on hand in garage.
 
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Absolutely NOTHING works better as a penetrating oil than
a 50-50 mixture of Acetone and auto trans fluid.
No commercial product comes close.
Google it if you don't believe me. :)

I did google it, it's true,

From google:

The test showed that anything, even WD-40, was better than dry-wrenching. But the winner, by a considerable margin, was the home-made mix consisting of 50% automatic transmission fluid, and 50% acetone. This 1:1 ratio allows the thin acetone to carry lubricant deep into the threads of your target bolt.
 
I have not seen any 3in1 oil in ,, I don't know whenand my penatrant is Kroil Oil on the front but most times a tiny amount of warm full synthetic oil like a 5w or 10w30 works very well . Might have some in your car or truck on the dip stick . I've use'd amsoil oil and grease since the mid '70's .
 
Neither: disassemble, clean with alcohol, few drops of Nano-Oil 5 or 10 weight.
 
Do what ralph7 said. I've been in HVACR for over 30 years. Acetone/tranny fluid mixture works best of all commercial stuff you can buy. Use rubber gloves and fresh air. After you get it all loosened up, blow it out with compressed air, then spray some Ballistol in it.
 
Absolutely NOTHING works better as a penetrating oil than
a 50-50 mixture of Acetone and auto trans fluid.
No commercial product comes close.
Google it if you don't believe me. :)

The only caveat to that is to NOT use synthetic ATF. Supposedly, it doesn't disperse/mix well with the acetone.

No experience with that, my 1990 Ford truck has always had non synthetic ATF and have it on hand. The 50/50 blend works a treat.

Rob
 
I have used both of those over time but I do like the way Kroil seems to work for me to get things to get moving again.
It just seems to soak into the metal a little better......
plus I used up all my 3-1 little can of oil. Bummer.
 
Wd40 is a water displacement..3-1 is a lubricant...Both are not a penetrant...
 
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