Best Car Wax??

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So I find myself in the situation where I have a nice car again.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/553079-2011-camaro-questions-car-guys.html

Most of my previous cars got washed when it rained, but this one I am being kind of anal about. Been running it through the super duper automatic wash that does the undercarriage, wax, spot free rinse (doesnt really work). Then I wipe it down with a Micro-Fiber cloth. When I am done with that I use a Turtle Wax spray wax.

What I want is a better wax that puts a harder layer of protection on. In the old days Blue Coral was about as good as it got, but I am sure there has been big advances in technology since.

So, suggestions?
 
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Butter from the Popcorn.:D

There are true Waxes and Space age Polymer Polishes.

They all protect the clear coat which is what protects the PAINT.

costanza-answering-machine.gif
 
If it was me, and I was considering putting on a good wax, I think I would clay bar it all first to get out any deep imbedded dirt and grime.

For a lasting wax and is good for about any paint, I use "Mothers" California Gold, a Brazillian Carnauba wax.

I use old sweat shirts turned inside out, and cut up into smaller pieces to apply the wax..Use several.....to buff it off, I use some of the larger pieces of either a old flannel shirt, I've cut all the buttons off, or the inside of the sweat shirts, or a old used terry cloth house coat that I got as a birthday gift one time, and never wore...Again, I go thru several. not to use over and over after they've been clogged with the old wax you've taken off.

As far as doing a lot of car washes, hope you're using one of those touchless car washes instead of having all those strips dragging across each time.

Rule 3, providing the car has a clear coat on it.:D


WuzzFuzz
 
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Butter from the Popcorn.:D

There are true Waxes and Space age Polymer Polishes.

They all protect the clear coat which is what protects the PAINT.

costanza-answering-machine.gif

I want to protect whatever needs protected.

Any suggestions?
 
If it was me, and I was considering putting on a good wax, I think I would clay bar it all first to get out any deep imbedded dirt and grime.



For a lasting wax and is good for about any paint, I use "Mothers" California Gold, a Brazillian Carnauba wax.



I use old sweat shirts turned inside out, and cut up into smaller pieces to apply the wax..Use several.....to buff it off, I use some of the larger pieces of either a old flannel shirt, I've cut all the buttons off, or the inside of the sweat shirts, or a old used terry cloth house coat that I got as a birthday gift one time, and never wore...Again, I go thru several. not to use over and over after they've been clogged with the old wax you've taken off.



As far as doing a lot of car washes, hope you're using one of those touchless car washes instead of having all those strips dragging across each time.



Rule 3, providing the car has a clear coat on it.:D





WuzzFuzz



Right on!

Bob


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I want to protect whatever needs protected.

Any suggestions?

Any of them (not sarcastic) but they all work

I have used Nu Finish for years (used to be top rated) But I like Turtle Wax Ice now (doesn't last as long but real easy to use and doesn't turn white on the black trim.

I use "polishes" not carnuba wax. I have no data that the expensive Mothers or similar are any better.

As with gun oils just use something and use it often.:D

Once or twice a year.
 
I use Meguairs. For a good looking wax coat, you need to polish. Polishing is what makes the paint look clean. Wax is what will add depth and protect the polish job you do. You can probably get by with claybaring and then M205 for polish. Then decide if you want a sythentic or carnauba wax. I put M21 down first, which is a synthetic, it last longer. Then top that with M26, a carnauba blend. Really deep smooth looking finish. But doesn't last as long. Your goal aside from having awesome looking paint, is to not polish again lol. So keep up with the wax coats. Dish soap will take off any wax if you wanted to re-wax. Don't put synthetic on top of carnauba. It becomes a hobby, and like all hobbies will get expensive. Post some pics when done.

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Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845

If you want a wax that can last well over six months...Collinite 845 is what you want. The past wax is #476. Put on a thin coat...if you don't it can be a bear to get off.

One of the easiest waxes to use is S100 Carnauba Paste Wax. S100 products can usually be found at Harley Davidison or other motorcycle shops. It does not last as long as Collinite, but it is really easy to use.
 
I've been happy with 100% carnuba wax I get from a woodworking friend. I pay to put it on though. Ten to twelve hour by hand. Two guys. Shines similar to and lasts very long like the old Blue Coral from the 1960's before the formular change. Don't like the circular waxing machines.

I've been using Renaissance wax on my BMW M 60 bike for two years.
 
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Here in Florida we have a few varieties or members of the Carnauba Wax Palm (Copernicia prunifera)

We cut of a few fronds and beat the heck out of them on the car,:D

cope_pr1.jpg
 
Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845

If you want a wax that can last well over six months...Collinite 845 is what you want. The past wax is #476. Put on a thin coat...if you don't it can be a bear to get off.

One of the easiest waxes to use is S100 Carnauba Paste Wax. S100 products can usually be found at Harley Davidison or other motorcycle shops. It does not last as long as Collinite, but it is really easy to use.

What Aden Said ^^^^^

My dad used it on his Caddy, I use it on my Boxster. Like others have said, polish it first, then wax. My daughter thought a kitchen pad would be a good idea to clean her car with. Needed a polish to get the scratches out (black paint BTW). Had to do 4 or 5 passes but man it looked like wet glass when I was done. I'm old (school) so I stick with the carnuba's. I use a Griot's buffer which saves a ton of time. Try Autogeek.com to get more info.
 
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