best J-frame in .357 ?

rcamp

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Best meaning most durable an least painful to shoot. Purpose will be deep concealment.
Thank you to all replies.
 
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Best meaning most durable an least painful to shoot. Purpose will be deep concealment.
Thank you to all replies.
 
I vote against any J-Frame in .357; however, if I had to choose one that was tolerable, I would say the newer Model 60. The stainless steel frame with a Hogue Monogrip takes some of the sting away. It's not an ideal set-up. It's just not.
 
I'd say a 640-1. No lock, forged parts, and heavy enough to give good control. (to me anyway.)
 
I'd say the 640-1 as well..
It's a concealed hammer Centennial, 357 Magnum, Stainless Steel, & as jframe said it's Pre Lock & all forged parts..
The factory Uncle Mikes Combat grips are great for shooting these over powered snubs but are too big for deep concealment, I have a cut down set that still covers the backstrap but is shorter & close to boot grip lenth, The best of both worlds..
I know were a 640-1 is but the guy wants $650
Will see it again this weekend at the gunshow
That's just a Bit TOO HIGH IMO.. Maybe Not??
A couple of years ago there was a 640-1 at a local shop for $500 that was factory Magna Ported, At the time I thought it was overpriced, but looking back now at the price it was a Deal!! Who would have thought??
Gary/Hk
 
640, no-lock. 110g Winchester .357 jhp. Recoil is no problem for my arthritic wrist. No adj. sight to snag, and not too heavy. Actual 2" barrel length.
 
I carry a Mod 60-9, but I carry .38 +p ammo in it. .357 is brutal in this little package. .38=P will get the job done. For carry in a .357 I would go with a 19 or a 66. k Frame. Just my .02
 
I have a 640-1. It is no pleasure to fire with .357 ammo but I can tolerate it and don't think it would be an issue in a serious social situation. I usually load mine with the old .38 LSWC HP +P. I think of it as a .38 that can take hot loads or magnums if needed. The enclosed hammer prevents the hammer spur from ripping the web of the hand. With Compacts or the original Uncle Mike's grips, it is not too bad to do some practice with magnum ammo...
 
If weight is an issue 340, if it's not 640. If pocket carry won't be used, model 60 3". I disagree that .357 is too much in a J frame. It depends on who the shooter is and what load they use. Besides what does it hurt to have the .357 option? You can always shoot .38s like it's a normal .38.
 
I like the 60-15 Pro. It is 3" barrel and 24 oz. with Pachmayr grips. I also like the 5" 60-18. It weighs 27 oz.
 
I agree on the 640-1 -- but I'd get either a Hogue, Uncle Mike's or Crimson Trace grip that covered and cushioned the metal backstrap -- and wouldn't fire it with full-house .357 loads until then.

It will be slightly less concealable, true, with those grips -- but it's the only way Non-Supermen Men of Steel can shoot this gun without trading off to low power loads -- and sitting in the corner -- whimpering, crying and moaning.

I've endured a lot of pain before -- and have a pretty high pain tolerance. I've never had anything hurt me as badly as a 640 with hottest .357 loads -- bare-handed -- with that blasted metal backstrap.

I still cringe when I ponder it...
 
THat would be my 60-15 with 3" Bbl.
plain ramp front and Adj. rear sight, the
3" Bbl. feature is a full extractor stroke
for getting empties out of the cylinder.
It's all stainless steel and 24 oz. nice
shooting J-frame with .38 Special +P or
.357 Mag. loaded down to +P+ velocities with
125 gr. or 140 gr. bullet weights.

Randall
 
Grips make all the difference in control, accuracy, and pain. I bought the 640-1 years ago, and it is great. In wish I had kept a second one that I bought in a moment of clear-headed thinking, but sold in a moment of empty-headed insanity.

Uncle Mikes Combat Grip rubber work for me, but the same brand of Boot Grips conceal better. I had to try different grips to find what does and doesn't work for me, other than the factory Uncle Mikes rubber.

This 640-1 .357 S&W Magnum J frame works well for me, for the all steel frame version. I load it with Silvertips, which is supposed to be a less than full power load.

The Lightweight series (like the 642) make better pocket pistols, but they are .38 Specials - which can still do well when shot accurately.

Here is my 640-1, wearing some no longer made Fitz Duramite grips. It generally wears this set of grips, or an identical set in black. These grips are sometimes found on ebay or estate sales. The set of grips that is right for your hands will make a world of difference in shooting.

Here is a link you may want to check:
http://www.hipowersandhandguns.com/Getting%20a%20Grip%20on%20J%20Frames.htm

fitzgrips001op3.jpg
 
I sincerely thank all the great replies and well rounded opinions. very helpful and appreciated.Very nice pic of some great guns, Poohgyrr.
will let ya'll know what I land.
 
If I could find one at a fair price I would choose a M649 no-lock. Since I couldn't find one I bought a very nice M640-1 that came with Badger Rosewood grips. Outstanding revolver and I shoot Winchester 145gr Silvertips in it without discomfort.

M640-02.jpg


Here is a picture of the "Twins", well almost twins. Here is a shot of my M640-1 and M642-1, both wearing Rosewood Badger grips although the M640 has Combat grips and the M642 is wearing Boot grips.

twins-1.jpg
 
The 60LS is very concealable and controllable with .357. However, I prefer .38+p. I feel the .357 frame helps keep the .38+p comfortable. I also added the Crimson Trace 205 hard polymer grips but 405 replacement model is more cushioned. CT Laser Grips

60-copy.jpg
 

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