Best J Frame

[Pete99004]

I've got the bug to purchase a J frame...don't know much about them at this point, so I thought I would get some input. From what I've read...looks like a model 36 would be a good choice for a .38 special. But from what I've seen so far the prices are all over the board. I personally think a model 60 in .357 is the way to go - versatile - but doesn't look like they are a cheep date...but like I said, I really don't much about the J frames.

Goal is to buy something that is fun to shoot, versatile for both the range, home protection and CC...Oh, and something the wife will like to shoot. What are your thoughts? Blued, nickle or stainless? I appreciate any input.


Pete

 

[Rule3]

The new 640 Pro. No IL.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...57895_757775_757751_ProductDisplayErrorView_Y

 

[Old 44 Guy]

J Frame??? All of 'em of course.

 

[Pete99004]

The new 640 Pro. No IL.

Product: Model 640

Nice looking piece, why is that better than a model 60?

 

[RonJ]

It has long been my dream to own a nice blue model 36. But for a versatile home defense/ sport revolver I love the model 60.

 

[Pete99004]

Yea, the 60 caught my eye as well, and the wife likes to be able to shoot SA on occasion.

Pete

 

[chief38]

Obviously this is one mans opinion, but here goes..........

The best J-frame that S&W EVER built is the Model 60-7. The 60-7 was built in the mid 90's and was the first gun specifically heat treated for +P ammo. The front sight is wider, the trigger is wider and smooth (no grooves), the top strap slightly beefier and it was the strongest J-frame they ever made PRE- LOCK! It also has classic features like the pinned cylinder stop, the hammer mounted firing pin, the classic style cylinder release and Magna Walnut stocks. Did I mention there is NO lock?!! They are compact, light weight, fully controlable with even heavy +P ammo and are still available in excellent condition for less than a current production copy. They are also the smoothest and most well built J's they ever made.

Now the minuses regarding the newer J-Frames.......

They are made with the frame mounted firing pin, MIM (cast) parts, INTERNAL LOCK, rubber grips, integral (ugly) cylinder stop, heavier and some are chambered for .357 cartridges. Now you might say that being able to fire 357's out of a Chief's Special is a plus.......that is until you actually fire 357's out of one. The J-Frames are not really practical for the 357 cartridge, and most people that fire them in a J frame only do it once. 9 times out of 10 they will usually use +P loads, so that being the case, why carry the extra weigh and bulk?

Basically the 60-7 is everything you want and nothing you don't in a perfect CCW weapon.

YMMV

Regards,
Chief38

 

[WheelGuy357]

Pete, Check out the Model 60 Pro.

 

[ContinentalOp]

I think it'd be hard to go wrong with a 649-2. This is the stainless steel Bodyguard (the real Bodyguard) in .38 Special. IIRC the -2 was the last version before the J-Magnum .357 frame. It has the wider front sight and rear notch as well as being pre-MIM (I believe) and pre-lock. It can be fired SA or DA (though my own personal preference would be to convert it to DAO), yet the shrouded hammer is snag resistant when carried in either a holster or pocket, though the steel frame may be a little heavy for pocket carry. With good grips and standard pressure ammo it should be easy to shoot if one or both of you are recoil sensitive, yet can handle +P ammo if more power is desired. Even if neither of you are recoil sensitive the steel frame will make practice more comfortable and +P ammo will be easier to control in a steel J-frame than one of the airweights. Lately I've been thinking that the 649-2 would make for a great all-around J-frame.

However, since my own personal preference is for DAO, I would probably choose a 640 no-dash in .38 Special for myself, and it has pretty much been my "Holy Grail" gun for the past year.

 

[Texas Star]

Obviously this is one mans opinion, but here goes..........

The best J-frame that S&W EVER built is the Model 60-7. The 60-7 was built in the mid 90's and was the first gun specifically heat treated for +P ammo. The front sight is wider, the trigger is wider and smooth (no grooves), the top strap slightly beefier and it was the strongest J-frame they ever made PRE- LOCK! It also has classic features like the pinned cylinder stop, the hammer mounted firing pin, the classic style cylinder release and Magna Walnut stocks. Did I mention there is NO lock?!! They are compact, light weight, fully controlable with even heavy +P ammo and are still available in excellent condition for less than a current production copy. They are also the smoothest and most well built J's they ever made.

Now the minuses regarding he newer J-Frames.......

They are made with the frame mounted firing pin, MIM (cast) parts, INTERNAL LOCK, rubber grips, integral (ugly) cylinder stop, heavier and some are chambered for .357 cartridges. Now you might say that being able to fire 357's out of a Chief's Special is a plus.......that is until you actually fire 357's out of one. The J-Frames are not really practical for the 357 cartridge, and most people that fire them in a J frame only do it once. 9 times out of 10 they will usually use +P loads, so that being the case, why carry the extra weigh and bulk?

Basically the 60-7 is everything you want and nothing you don't in a perfect CCW weapon.

YMMV

Regards,
Chief38

Chief-

I concur, but S&W told me that the first Plus P-Rated J is the M-60-4 full lug three-inch one. I love the M-60-7 as a true snub, but the M-60-4 is a better single handgun, if one has just one, and better in the woods, if you go there.

Any J-frame should be stainless. It's just the real world choice for a working gun. The Airweights and Ti guns are a niche item.

 

[chief38]

Texas Star:

The 60-4 is a fine gun as well, but to the best of my knowledge (and verified by Supica's book) the -4 was not heat treated specifically for the +P's. Even without the heat treating it will still handle limited amounts of the hotter ammo. I have fired plenty of the +P's through other Chief's Special revolvers that are plain M60 no dash's and they are still tight and in perfect time. I just wouldn't feed them a steady diet of them as you are able to with the -7.

I own a 3" bull barrel variation as well, and for field (woods) use I actually agree with you, the gun you speak of is handier, however for CCW I like the 2" 60-7 as the best package.

I own a bunch of different variations of Chief's Specials in all different barrel lengths, configurations, dash #'s, etc, and I suppose it come down to personal preference. For me, I think the 60-7 is the best there ever was in a Chief's Special but America is a great Country and we can all decide what is best for our individual needs, likes and wants.

Regards,
Chief38

 

[Moonman]

60PRO or a 60.

 

[Texas Star]

Texas Star:

The 60-4 is a fine gun as well, but to the best of my knowledge (and verified by Supica's book) the -4 was not heat treated specifically for the +P's. Even without the heat treating it will still handle limited amounts of the hotter ammo. I have fired plenty of the +P's through other Chief's Special revolvers that are plain M60 no dash's and they are still tight and in perfect time. I just wouldn't feed them a steady diet of them as you are able to with the -7.

I own a 3" bull barrel variation as well, and for field (woods) use I actually agree with you, the gun you speak of is handier, however for CCW I like the 2" 60-7 as the best package.

I own a bunch of different variations of Chief's Specials in all different barrel lengths, configurations, dash #'s, etc, and I suppose it come down to personal preference. For me, I think the 60-7 is the best there ever was in a Chief's Special but America is a great Country and we can all decide what is best for our individual needs, likes and wants.

Regards,
Chief38

Chief-


That book has some errors. I can only tell you what the factory told me when I called and asked in my capacity as a gun writer preparing an article on the matter. Of course, factory spokesmen have also made errors.

I don't in any way dispute your feeling that the -7 is a superior snub. I miss one that I traded for an SP-101 and plan to replace it. But the -4 is a better trail and all-round gun, giving higher velocity and holding steadier in the hand and offering adjustable sights. The snub can be hidden better, including in a hollowed-out book and on the person. I think you're making the same points, so we agree.

We aren't differing. I'm just saying that each gun is best, depending on what you want at the time.

BTW, I was told that the -4 had digested at least 10,000 rounds of Plus P (they didn't say what kind) and was still tight. This was a factory trials gun. (This does NOT apply to the earlier blued M-36-6, a similar gun. It does not have the endurance package.)

I really don't want to say much more, or we'll start a run on -7's, and I need to get another before the prices climb or the supply dries up.

 

[Rule3]

Nice looking piece, why is that better than a model 60?

JMO

Perhaps not better, I just like it. I have it in the 327 Federal Mag with 6 shots rather than 5. I reload so ammo is not a problem. The factory Speer 327 FM 115 gr come close to 357 Mag ballistics without the full blast of the 357 Mag. If folks don't buy into that then consider it a 9mm. I have a older 640 Gemini Custom in 357 and the new one is nicer looking. Stainless is forever.

Any J frame is good. I like the DA only no hammer as it makes for a better carry piece. The sights on the 640 pro are actually usable. A better "all around J"

As to MIM well that's a bunch of pages of discussion. The tolerances of the new SW's are better than the older ones. I have plenty of the old ones and like them as much as anyone. Firing pin differences? So?, things change. Probably most SW forum members drive newer cars and have CD players and MP3's rather than 8 tracks.

 

[Tyrod]

I will say this. A used all steel j frame is usually substantially cheaper than a new all steel j frame. I have a Model 60-4 and a Model 60-15. Not only was the 60-4 $200 cheaper, even with the normal wear & tear on a 19 year old gun it looks better than the BNIB 60-15. Plus, the model 60-4 is more accurate.

 

[hawgleg]

I own both a 357 Mod 60 and a 38 spl Mod 36 both with the 3 inch barrels. I highly recommend trying to find a J-frame with the 3 inch barrel as it gives a better sight radius for range and home defense. I really like any 3 inch barreled J-frame for accuracy and they just balance so well. Good Luck with you're search.

 

[elm_creek_smith]

My nickeled Model 37 is the best J-Frame out there because it's mine and in my jacket pocket as I type. (It's backing up the stupid Glock my agency issued instead of letting me carry a revolver.)

ECS

 

[Naples22]

The Model 49 Bodyguard, the real one, or the 649

 

[raisedin99]

The 640 no dash.

 

[G.T. Smith]

I agree.......but,

My nickeled Model 37 is the best J-Frame out there because it's mine and in my jacket pocket as I type. (It's backing up the stupid Glock my agency issued instead of letting me carry a revolver.)

ECS

My blued Model 37 is the best J-Frame out there because it's not yours and lying in the driveway as I type. But really, look at how well MY blued 37 has maintained it's pristine NIB appearance after being dragged behind my truck on a dirt road and carried every day for a long time
Just joking,
Peace,
gordon
But I do love that little gun and it is truly an airweight weapon. Around here a person can pick one of these up a lot cheaper than some of the other guns mentioned, and it works great.