Best J Frame

This is a tough decision.

I have 6 J Frames.
36 no dash 1-7/8"
36 no dash 3"
442-2 1-7/8"
60-7 1-7/8" which I picked up a few months ago while working a gun show. LNIB with papers for $300.00. I didn't know what I had there until I read this post about the 60-7. Thanks.
640 no dash 1-7/8"
649 no dash 1-7/8"

The 649 is probably my favorite of them all.
It is the only one I purchased brand new (around 1988) and carried it for many years.

All the other J Frames were deals I picked up working gun shows. I never bought them to carry, but the deals were too good to pass up.
The 60-7 was the most expensive, and the rest were in the mid $200.00 range.

I would say my least favorite out of all of them is the 442-2.
I just don't like airweights. I like the feel of a steel gun.
Buy hey, that is just me.

Stu
 
There was an article written in the late 70's or early 80's by Skeeter Skelton (a well known and well thought of gun writer for a few magazines at the time) who did a torture test on the model 36 (no dash). I don't recall exactly how many thousands and thousands of +P's he shot in that little gun, but after the testing he could find absolutely no ill effects from the ammo. Not that I would necessarily recommend that, but it's certainly nice to know that the little buggers can take a lickin' and keep on ticken'!!

Texas Star:

Yes you are correct in the fact that the SCSW book does have a slight amount of errors (but VERY FEW) and I know for a fact that the Factory has made their share of errors in the past as well; hey we are all human!

Again, for field use in the woods, the 3" is a better J Frame, but for CCW I'd go with the 2" if for nothing else..... concealability.

Chief38


Chief-

I have a separate thread here now about the M-60-4. It goes into more detail, but I'll say here that I did later check the book, Second Edition, and it DOES SAY that the gun IS made for Plus P warranty. Page 179. Maybe you have another edition, or were going from memory? :confused:

No slight is intended, although some individuals tried to portray that intent before Hand Ejector deleted some mean- spirited remarks and moved the thread to this forum. I, too, have lapses about what a reference might say, so I looked it up. The book info does jive with what the factory told me.

I knew Skeeter Skelton, and I recall his various endurance tests. I missed the one for the M-36, I guess. I do recall that a LW Colt Commander .45 had some frame damage after 5,000 rounds. Skeeter fired those amounts of ammo with several assistants, and they went at it pretty hard. Had the guns received average use, they might have done better. That some performed so well is impressive.

I certainly agree with you that the M-60-7 snub is easier to conceal. I enjoyed your fine posts. Both guns are at the top of their class, I believe. :)
 
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I have one pre-IL - my latest buy - a 4" 651 (center, right). I also have one 'post-IL' - my latest new purchase - the 632 Pro (bottom, left). The finest 60 I have ever held - or shot? My 60-15 60 Pro (upper, left). The most fun plinker - and most frugal to shoot? My 3" 63 (lower, right).

004-2.jpg


My most important J-frame - and only one not shown - still sporting it's OEM rubber boots - is my first J-frame - now five years old - a 642-2 - with it's IL. It was where it always is when I took the picture. If I have pants on, it's in a Mika pocket holster and in my pocket. I like the improvements - and neat offerings - of the modern J-frames. While I don't like it, the IL won't dissuade me from a S&W revolver purchase. YMMV - and that's okay with me.

Stainz

PS I like the '60 Pro' grips... can you tell?
 
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PS I like the '60 Pro' grips... can you tell?

I just got a M63 and saw you numerous postings of the "Pro" grips, I think I am sold.

I also have a 442 that I think would look cool "pimped out" with some fake pearl or ivory grips.
 
Texas Star:

First off I just want to say thank you for your respect and politeness on our differences of opinion.... that is what makes this Country GREAT! There are a few on this and other Forums that seem to take out their frustrations in their text against other peoples opinions & statements and naivety from new members. This Forum along with others, is meant for enjoyment, information sharing and learning, and attitudes should be left behind.

That said, yes I believe we do have different SCSW books. Mine is the first edition and was published in 1996. On page 179 in my book are Long Guns from Japan. On page 133 it gives the details of the Changes which I am listing exactly as written:

Changes:
60 1965 introduction
1969 begin "R" serial prefix @ R1
60-1 1972 3" S, heavy barrel version, ltd. prod. of 171
1982 delete pinned bbl.
1986 Special run - w/ adjustable sights
60-2 1987 3" bbl for NYPD
60-3 1988 new yoke retention system
60-4 1990 ltd. prod. of target model w/ full under lug
60-5 1990 DA only for NYPD
60-6 1990 Lady Smith version
60-7 1990 new sight width, heat treatment package
60-8 1990 new sight width for NYPD & heat treatment package
1994 change extractor, synthetic grips

I would not doubt that your edition which came after mine does have some corrections in it. When Supica & Nahas wrote this I am sure they were overwhelmed with facts, numbers, date, etc, and their info is only as good as the info supplied by S&W. Since their history goes back so far, I am sure there are plenty of other mistakes as well which might be corrected in the next edition.

The other thing here is that S&W (and I have it in writing in the form of a Factory letter) stated that any revolver chambered for the .38 special would handle limited amounts of +P ammunition as long as it had a stamped model number in the yoke area. That would cover all the 60's even the ones with no dash as well as a slew of other models they made.

Your book may have different information and I certainly would love to learn from any corrected info in your book. The real reason I never bought the new addition SCSW is that I am old school and I am really not interested in any Smith & Wesson Revolver produced much after the late 1990's.... you know, locks, MIM, synthetics, etc.

Anyway, I will agree weather or not someone has the 60-4 or the 60-7, they are both great revolvers, and for field use - open carry in the woods I will agree the 3" underlug model has the advantage, but for CCW and HOT +P's I think it's the 60-7.

Respectfully,

Chief38
 
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I prefer my 340Sc with 357 mag Hormady 125gr self defense. I don't know what all the fuss about recoil is about.
 
I alternate between an old flat latch Model 38 (no dash) and a no lock 442 in satin nickle. My colt cobra from 1968 has been retired to the safe and only comes out for the range once in awhile. Currently contemplating a no lock Model 340 M&P.
 
I have several J-frames....36, 49, 442, 642, 34, 632. My favorite...the most versatile and most fun to shoot... is the 632 hands down. I bought it for my wife who is recoil-sensitive to replace the 36 as her nightstand gun. It's a great combination range (adjustable sights) and defense gun.
You can handload 76 grain cast bullets for plinking that are quieter than a .22 lr and accurate. Her defense load is an 85gr JHP travelling at 1200fps (using .32 mag cases). It's a serious load that's comfortable to shoot all day. Haven't tried .327 mag in it yet...no need to but nice to have the option. My first .32 and I can't say enough good things about it.
 
My wife and I both have S&W 642's, rated for +P ammo, and not to bad of a price, and a gun you would carry.
 
I like em' all except for the shrouded hammer models. Forgot where I read it but I did read that if you pocket carry one of the shrouded hammer models that link can collect behind the hammer and stop the gun from running. Open hammer or fully enclosed(like my M642) doesn't have that problem.
Personally, I like the M642, enclosed hammer since you can fire it from your pocket if need be and being DAO it's pretty much "Court Proof", no way to say you had the hammer back and had an AD because of the "hair trigger" Single Action mode. JMHO, YMMV.
 
Obviously this is one mans opinion, but here goes..........

The best J-frame that S&W EVER built is the Model 60-7. The 60-7 was built in the mid 90's and was the first gun specifically heat treated for +P ammo. The front sight is wider, the trigger is wider and smooth (no grooves), the top strap slightly beefier and it was the strongest J-frame they ever made PRE- LOCK! It also has classic features like the pinned cylinder stop, the hammer mounted firing pin, the classic style cylinder release and Magna Walnut stocks. Did I mention there is NO lock?!! They are compact, light weight, fully controlable with even heavy +P ammo and are still available in excellent condition for less than a current production copy. They are also the smoothest and most well built J's they ever made.

Now the minuses regarding the newer J-Frames.......

They are made with the frame mounted firing pin, MIM (cast) parts, INTERNAL LOCK, rubber grips, integral (ugly) cylinder stop, heavier and some are chambered for .357 cartridges. Now you might say that being able to fire 357's out of a Chief's Special is a plus.......that is until you actually fire 357's out of one. The J-Frames are not really practical for the 357 cartridge, and most people that fire them in a J frame only do it once. 9 times out of 10 they will usually use +P loads, so that being the case, why carry the extra weigh and bulk?

Basically the 60-7 is everything you want and nothing you don't in a perfect CCW weapon.

YMMV

Regards,
Chief38


A bit late to this picnic, but I gotta add that I agree. If I had to pick only one, this is it. I have a 60-7 in Ladysmith trim. Bought it used, like new in the mid-late '90s. Bobbed the hammer, tuned it to down to about 8.5 pounds, added boot grips, and have carried it ever since....maybe 11 or 12 years of that as a primary concealed weapon. It's one of only two non-LW J-frames I own, the other being a 940. And I suspect those two will be pretty much it.
 
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I have had a couple dozen J frames over the years. I like them all, but prefer the 60 in .357.
 
Forgot where I read it but I did read that if you pocket carry one of the shrouded hammer models that link can collect behind the hammer and stop the gun from running.

I was told that slot back there was for depositing a dime every time you want to shoot it.:eek:
 
I've got the bug to purchase a J frame...

Goal is to buy something that is fun to shoot, versatile for both the range, home protection and CC...Oh, and something the wife will like to shoot.

Pete

S&W model 649; model 649-1; model 649-2, .38 special.
 
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