Best setup for barrel pin removal

[-BTM-]

Time to face the music. I have done plenty of pins on CZ pistols but none where I’m sweating the finish this much. What’s your go to setup for barrel pins?

Can’t find cup tip punches in stock anywhere, seems that all roads lead back to brownells. I’ve read that a nail set works to get it started, then pin punch to drive it out.

 

[handejector]

A nail set will almost certainly mark the pin with a ring. I would not use one.

 

[-BTM-]

A nail set will almost certainly mark the pin with a ring. I would not use one.

Thanks Lee, I don’t intend to! I have some brass rod I’ll try to turn down after putting a divot in the end. Looks like it is a 1/16” straight pin, maybe a 1.5mm punch would work as well.

Also thought of putting a little bit of lead sheet in the tip if I can’t get a nice cup shape. have a few parts kit barrels still pinned into frame stubs to practice on.

 

[jmiles1960]

I bit the bullet and bought a few cupped tip punches from Brownell's. I agree, couldn't seem to find them anywhere else.

 

[Protocall_Design]

If you have a lathe, you can use a ball end mill in the tailstock drill chuck to make a cup tip punch. A 1/16" solid carbide ball end mill would be fine. The pin is .055 so a 1/16" (.062) punch is too big. I would not use a nail set either.

Brass rod will not hold up, it's too soft. You need steel. You could use a 3/64" (.047) x 1" long hardened steel dowel pin and put the cup tip in that. Then mount it in a knurled steel handle. You can drill a 3/64 x 5/16" deep hole in the end and press fit or Loctite it in. You may want to make a short starter punch the same as well. The dowel pins can be found at www.mcmaster,com, part #98381A985.

Edit - Sorry, I see I was a few minutes too late.

 

[cgt4570]

Don't hate me. I use my smallest nail set. I put a piece of electrical tape on the frame to prevent a mark. It only has to move a fraction before you can tap it out with a flat tip punch. If it's a nice project, I replace the pin with a new one, so if I mark it up removing it, it will just be used on a future beater project.

 

[jem102]

Do you remove the pin right to left?

 

[Protocall_Design]

Either way. It's a straight pin in a straight hole.

 

[dfariswheel]

Pretty much the standard in American guns is that pins go in on the right side, out from the left.
There are exceptions, but most follow the standard.

 

[Shotguncoach]

I detest idiot scratches....

PM me your address and I'll mail you my spare set of cup tip punches so that you can do it right. Just send them back when you're done.

 

[jem102]

Thanks for the removal/install direction of travel.

 

[chief38]

If Brownell's is out of stock on them, try Amazon.

 

[-BTM-]

I detest idiot scratches....

PM me your address and I'll mail you my spare set of cup tip punches so that you can do it right. Just send them back when you're done.

Can’t believe I missed this, what an incredible, generous offer. I can’t take you up on it though. I don’t borrow what I can’t replace and if I could replace it, I’d have them. Or something like that.

I’m pretty close to fabbing one, the first try broke but I’m forming a starter punch to try that.

 

[-BTM-]

Well ****. Protocol_Design said brass wouldn’t work but I had to try. This was just under .055 at the tip and cupped with a burr I could barely see. Time to get some steel, and maybe figure out some kind of press.

I should thank all the craftsmen in Bangladesh for posting videos on how to make precision instruments out of old car tires. It inspired me.

 

[Protocall_Design]

You can get the steel pins in post #5, make them cup tip, and set them in the brass handle you already have. No need for a press, just use a small hammer. A starter punch and a pin punch will get you there. A lot of other S&W pins are the same size. The starter punch gets the pin broke loose. Once it's moving, the pin punch can easily finish the job.

 

[Engineer1911]

This thread reminded me of the old engineering adage: "Measure with Micrometer, Mark with Chalk, Cut with Axe".

Do it Myself with wood? YES. Do it myself with guns? Think carefully, try cautiously, call professional gunsmith.

Good luck.

 

[Shotguncoach]

Brownells is showing their cup tip pin punches as back in stock as of now.

Brownells cup tip punches

IIRC, I use a #5 to start the barrel pin moving and then a #2 to drive it the rest of the way out. Or you could bite the bullet and get Set C.

While you're at it, if you don't already have one I highly recommend getting a Donegan opti-visor for this kind of work. The "2X at 10 inches" model works well for me on the bench.

No worries about not taking the offer. I completely understand your point of view on borrowing things.

 

[Protocall_Design]

The opti visor is a big deal. I have 2 of them, and use them several times a day. Good advice.

 

[CalifEd]

Brownells is showing their cup tip pin punches as back in stock as of now.

Brownells cup tip punches

IIRC, I use a #5 to start the barrel pin moving and then a #2 to drive it the rest of the way out. Or you could bite the bullet and get Set C.

Great.
Just last week I ordered a single #5 that I needed.

I already had the #'s 2 & 3 but will now add #1 and #4.
I didn't see a Set C, only the Set D - did I miss something?

Totally agree with the visor, not only good for smithing but reading the many mice-type instructions sheets along with the equally tiny prescription instructions.

BTW, any suggestions on a good source for barrel pins for the early j-frame revolvers in Blue and Nickel?