Best Trigger Upgrades?

[mattz357]

I'm going to be placing an order through Midway and thought I might as well get some trigger parts along with the red dot and AFG I'm going to order. If nothing else I plan to order a couple extra trigger springs to try the method mentioned in another post here, but what about return springs and other components? This is my only "AR" and I've never even taken it apart before, but I'm willing to try (and I have the AGI video). Thanks in advance for any info!

 

[Brett248Vista]

I can not make a spring recommendation, but servicing the trigger group or Fire Control Group on an AR is so simple a cave man could do it! Just had mine out last night to clean the parts. Simple and Smart design.

 

[Crazy K38]

I have heard that the Timney drop in trigger group is outstanding

 

[LTC]

The "15 Minute AR Trigger Job" and polishing the sear faces worked well on my 15-22. I have not checked it with a trigger gage but it is definately lighter and smoother. Use caution with the sear faces if you decide to polish them.

LTC

 

[chuck s]

Best is highly subjective!

I have an Accuracy Speaks single stage trigger in my "duty" semiautomatic M4 carbine, but have ArmaLite and Rock River 2-stage triggers in three others. All three are wonderful trigger systems. the 2-stage triggers are drop in and work well in my M&P 15-22 as well. I ain't messing with the Accuracy Speaks in my primary weapon, it's too nice.

But before I spent well over $100 on a trigger for my $400 plinker/trainer I tried the "15 Minute AR15 Trigger Job" which consists of a bit of fluff and buff and spring modification. No comparison to the Accuracy Speaks single stage, but much improved and in the Good Enough category.

The trigger and hammer are easily removed from the M16 system but avoid doing so as part of routine cleaning and maintenance as you can add wear to the pin holes in the 15-22 plastic frame, or the metal alloy frame on the full caliber models.

In the 15-22 is is NOT necessary to remove the selector to get the trigger out so that saves time (and lost springs and detents). Search this section as there are lots of trigger notes.

You should be able to find a copy of TM9-1005-319-23&P (M16 "Armorers Manual") on line several places. Other than not needing to remove the selector this manual covers the trigger parts very well. Of course there's no auto-sear or burst cam but you should be able to read around those parts. The hammer pin is secured by a J-clip in the hammer that engages the center groove in the pin and the trigger pin (the pins are identical and the same part number) is secured by one leg of the hammer spring. With the 15 Minute Trigger job you need to especially ensure the groove is on the side with the remaining spring let.

Other than this just do as my old sergeants use to say and "Just shoot the mofo!"

-- Chuck

 

[Brett248Vista]

Chuck,

I have to ask, how does removing the FCG cause accelerated wear on the holes in the LR for the FCG? The hammer and trigger pins are smooth not knurled and are not press fit into the LR. The trigger spring is secured by the hammer return spring, and the hammer spring is secured via it's own internal spring inside the thru hole.

Just curious that's why I'm asking.

 

[mikehoncho]

i would think the trigger and/or hammer pin rotating would cause more wear on the lower than taking the pins in/out over and over. i don't know though.

 

[chuck s]

Any time you remove and insert parts you tend to accumulate wear. It may be insignificant if only done a few times. Removing the hammer and trigger is NOT authorized at the soldier level with the M16 for this reason. Nor is there really any reason as the lower receiver can be brushed or blown out easily.

Your call. No sergeants standing over your shoulder. But I rarely remove mine.

When doing the "15 minute trigger job" spin the pins in a drill chuck and steel wool the pins to make them smooth.

Anti-walk pins are unnecessary, the springs hold the pins in place. They're sold for the simple reason guys will buy them!

-- Chuck