time2swing
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2015
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 6
Already bent my S&W screwdriver bit.
Go!
Go!
Best way to loosen a stuck screw in a S&W revolver?
- Thread starter time2swing
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
OP
time2swing
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2015
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 6
Faceplate screw
First discard the S&W screw driver.
Next, soak the screw with PB Blaster for a week.
Get a set of gunsmith screwdrivers and try removing the screw. If that doesn't do it, try soaking the screw for another week.
Next, soak the screw with PB Blaster for a week.
Get a set of gunsmith screwdrivers and try removing the screw. If that doesn't do it, try soaking the screw for another week.
I'm sure that PBblaster is good, but I've used SiliKroil for quite some time and I've found it to be pretty close to magic for getting screws to turn.
But the main trick I wanted to mention is carefully place the CORRECT size screwdriver in the screw slot and then give it a couple of taps with a hammer (just taps, not whacks). That often helps quite a bit.
If it's still obstinate, tap it again and then try putting pressure in the direction of tightening (just some pressure... don't go nuts).
Then try again to loosen it.
Patience is the key.
But the main trick I wanted to mention is carefully place the CORRECT size screwdriver in the screw slot and then give it a couple of taps with a hammer (just taps, not whacks). That often helps quite a bit.
If it's still obstinate, tap it again and then try putting pressure in the direction of tightening (just some pressure... don't go nuts).
Then try again to loosen it.
Patience is the key.
Soak and sit with PB blaster as previously mentioned. Hopefully you have an extra set of hands around, and a vice grips for the next step. Place the vice grips on the shaft of the screwdriver, tight. Have somebody else hold the gun to prevent twisting, and support it so you don't bind the cylinder. Place the screwdriver head in the slot, using one hand to apply downward pressure, while using the vice grips to turn the shaft. Hopefully, it breaks loose....
After going through PB and tap treatment and still won't turn.
I take a cheap screw driver, grind to fit screw, hold with pliers
and heat cheap screw driver with propane torch. Careful not to
Let flame hit gun. Soon as flame is taken away spray with PB
Heat will cause expansion and contraction when cooling, that will
break screw loose. I don't work every time, but has worked for
me in several cases.
I take a cheap screw driver, grind to fit screw, hold with pliers
and heat cheap screw driver with propane torch. Careful not to
Let flame hit gun. Soon as flame is taken away spray with PB
Heat will cause expansion and contraction when cooling, that will
break screw loose. I don't work every time, but has worked for
me in several cases.
OP
time2swing
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2015
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 6
Do I submerge that part of the gun or just drip the solution onto to screw?
Drip it every few hours.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,885
- Reaction score
- 31,897
Kroil is VERY VERY good and I have had excellent results with only soaking for a few hours. When I encounter a frozen screw before I get frustrated and do damage to the screw slot or head, I immediately move on to the Drill Press Chuck. Using HAND POWER ONLY, chuck the correct size hollow ground bit, use the Drill Press handle to hold bit in slot and slowly begin to turn screw. I find that if you have someone to help you hold the gun down on a towel placed on the Drill Press table it sure helps a lot.
HERE"S THE KEY!!
Follow this procedure BEFORE you ruin the screw head! As soon as you discover the screw is in tighter than normal and it might be a problem, STOP! Once you strip or ruin the screw slot or head, it only makes matters more difficult. The whole idea is to use this method before the screw is shot...............
HERE"S THE KEY!!
Follow this procedure BEFORE you ruin the screw head! As soon as you discover the screw is in tighter than normal and it might be a problem, STOP! Once you strip or ruin the screw slot or head, it only makes matters more difficult. The whole idea is to use this method before the screw is shot...............
Just for future reference, that is a sight adjustment tool, and is only intended to be used as such. Plenty of good advice here about making a stuck screw move.
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Messages
- 19,885
- Reaction score
- 31,897
EXCELLENT ADVISE MM!
OP
time2swing
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2015
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 6
Thx, gonna let it soak for a good long while...
loeman
Member
I too have had good success using Kroil. However, the whole process demands patience. Give the Kroil or PB time to work and keep dribbling on the screw while you are waiting. How long? I'd give it a couple of days or more.
In another project, I used Kroil to free a set of motorcycle mufflers from the header pipes. They were fused together with burnt oil. It took about a week, but it worked. However, I must add that this project allowed me to use a heavy rubber mallet for extra persuasion.
In another project, I used Kroil to free a set of motorcycle mufflers from the header pipes. They were fused together with burnt oil. It took about a week, but it worked. However, I must add that this project allowed me to use a heavy rubber mallet for extra persuasion.
OP
time2swing
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2015
- Messages
- 14
- Reaction score
- 6
GrayGhost99
Member
A lot of great recommendations here. I would follow all but I will not get into the polite argument over the best lubricant.
If all of the above fails a bit that fits inserted into a precision impact driver and a smart hammer whack does it every time. Anyone who owns a uberti reproduction rifle probably has had to purchase one for the first tear down. Not terribly expensive.
If all of the above fails a bit that fits inserted into a precision impact driver and a smart hammer whack does it every time. Anyone who owns a uberti reproduction rifle probably has had to purchase one for the first tear down. Not terribly expensive.
CAJUNLAWYER
Member
Hate to mention this, but I once overheard some dufus proclaiming that on hard recoiling magnums like the 460 one should use red locktite on the side plate screws to keep them from coming loose under recoil. I wanted to slap the snot out of him but he was a mite bigger than me and dufus or no, he could probably kick my little cajun butt. I just walked away shaking my head.......
There just is no fix for stupid.
Seven High
Member
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2014
- Messages
- 241
- Reaction score
- 156
A propane torch heating a screwdriver shaft will cause red locktite to release. It just takes three hands and patience.
The only screws on a gun that I loctite are scope mount screws.
Screws "lock on the head" you should check your screws after
shooting sessions. I have not had much trouble with S&Ws, but
Have had to remove many frame screws with sheared heads from
SAs. Owners let screws get loose to point recoil sheared head. This would be major pain if loc- tite had been used. Older Rugers
would do this until they started using screws with nylon insert.
My pet-peeve is when guys loctite the plug screws in rifle barrels.
The torch on screw diver method is required to get them out. Also don't use screw driver you heated, they are softened by the
torch.
Screws "lock on the head" you should check your screws after
shooting sessions. I have not had much trouble with S&Ws, but
Have had to remove many frame screws with sheared heads from
SAs. Owners let screws get loose to point recoil sheared head. This would be major pain if loc- tite had been used. Older Rugers
would do this until they started using screws with nylon insert.
My pet-peeve is when guys loctite the plug screws in rifle barrels.
The torch on screw diver method is required to get them out. Also don't use screw driver you heated, they are softened by the
torch.
Dealing with this problem makes me so nervous, I put several layers of masking tape all around the screw, just in case the bit slips. I also found a big wad of silly putty underneath is good for supporting an irregular shape like a revolver.
I really liked the Chief38's drill press technique.
I'll use that for more than guns.
I really liked the Chief38's drill press technique.
I'll use that for more than guns.
Big Cholla
Member
Good suggestions on using the Kroil/PB Blaster and mild heat. What I want to emphasize is that the handgun must be held in place securally and level. I use lead blocks that I have milled to accept the frame and barrel level on my bench and then clamp the handgun down with a big spring clamp or two. Then I do the heat and Kroil thing for a couple of hours. Then I get the help of my beautiful and talented wife (may a well score some points here). I put the torque to tighten first on a properly fitted screw driver while she gently taps the top of the screwdriver handle for a couple of taps with a very light brass hammer. I then start the torque motion to back out the screw while she taps slightly more sharply on the screwdriver handle. Working as a team we have never failed on a handgun. The second the screw begins to turn she stops tapping. I have had a couple on rifles that I had to drill out and use a screw extractor.
You must have the handgun secure and level. The screwdriver bit must fit the screw slot exactly and be of good steel. The screwdriver must be perfectly inline with the axis of the screw threads. That is of vital importance and is harder to do than it seems it would be. .......
You must have the handgun secure and level. The screwdriver bit must fit the screw slot exactly and be of good steel. The screwdriver must be perfectly inline with the axis of the screw threads. That is of vital importance and is harder to do than it seems it would be. .......
The drill press (or milling machine) method to back a stubborn screw out is about the best. It allows the great downward force on the bit to be maintained so it doesn't twist out of the screw slot,,while you carefully turn the chuck by hand to back the screw out.
Lock the gun/part in the table vise securely or clamp to the table to avoid it moving while doing this or you risk the bit slipping from the screw head and marring the finish.
Another trick if you're just using a screw driver free-hand on the screw with the gun in a bench vise,,with a close fitting screw driver blade which you should have anyway,,put a tiny touch of grit on the blade before you place it into the screw slot.
I use valve grinding compound or rosin 'cause I have both handy. I'm sure there's other materials more gunsmith PC.
But the idea is the same,,it gives the blade a good bite & grip in the screw slot and helps avoid the blade twisting itself out of the slot as it's turned.
Heavy downward pressure is the key, which is why the drill press trick works so well..
Don't be surprised if you break a bit or two using the drill press method before the screw finally comes free. Especially if the screw is the really fine slotted type.
At least you have control using this method and you won't damage anything on the gun.
You can also put heat on the screw w/an electric soldering gun. Just the soldering tip placed on the screw head and heat it up.
The little circuit board soldering units will do for the small screws,,a pistol grip type will heat up larger screws quickly.
Cover the soldering tip with a twist of aluminum foil if it's tinned and crusty from soldering work. That'll avoid any discoloration to the blued screw. The heat will transfer just fine.
Loctite, solder, stock finish, crazy-glue are all possibilitys as a thread locker. Heat will defeat them all. Some will need 400+F,,most less.
Patience, and don't damage that screw slot, or you'll have to drill the thing out.
Lock the gun/part in the table vise securely or clamp to the table to avoid it moving while doing this or you risk the bit slipping from the screw head and marring the finish.
Another trick if you're just using a screw driver free-hand on the screw with the gun in a bench vise,,with a close fitting screw driver blade which you should have anyway,,put a tiny touch of grit on the blade before you place it into the screw slot.
I use valve grinding compound or rosin 'cause I have both handy. I'm sure there's other materials more gunsmith PC.
But the idea is the same,,it gives the blade a good bite & grip in the screw slot and helps avoid the blade twisting itself out of the slot as it's turned.
Heavy downward pressure is the key, which is why the drill press trick works so well..
Don't be surprised if you break a bit or two using the drill press method before the screw finally comes free. Especially if the screw is the really fine slotted type.
At least you have control using this method and you won't damage anything on the gun.
You can also put heat on the screw w/an electric soldering gun. Just the soldering tip placed on the screw head and heat it up.
The little circuit board soldering units will do for the small screws,,a pistol grip type will heat up larger screws quickly.
Cover the soldering tip with a twist of aluminum foil if it's tinned and crusty from soldering work. That'll avoid any discoloration to the blued screw. The heat will transfer just fine.
Loctite, solder, stock finish, crazy-glue are all possibilitys as a thread locker. Heat will defeat them all. Some will need 400+F,,most less.
Patience, and don't damage that screw slot, or you'll have to drill the thing out.
BigMoneyGrip
Member
I always use a bit that fits the slot perfectly. A couple of sharp strikes with a light hammer to the bit and it will unscrew. I have an old ball pein hammer that is about a 2~3 ounce head and works perfectly. This method has never let me down.
Similar threads
