Best way to remove rust?

mred123

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I think that my question must have been answered many times on this forum...so please forgive...but I can not seem to find an answer.

What is the best way to remove rust from an old Webley 5 blued revolver? [the rust is mostly on one side of the cylinder]...
AND... after the rust is removed...what is the best way to polish without removing the remaining bluing?... thanks in advance...
 
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I use #0000 Steel Wool with gun oil and rub gently, slowly and carefully checking the results often. This method works fast and well. After rust is removed, you will still see the damaging results of the rust, but the rust itself should be gone. Make sure you keep a thin coat of oil on the area so the rust does't return. That's it -plain & simple.
 
You might want to check out the other threads about soaking in Automatic trasmission fluid mixed with acetone or mineral spirits. There are a couple of threads on that subject and the Ed's Red mixture. Search the forum for "rust".
 
RUST

from someone that doesn't know how to post pics, they would help to see just how bad it is and exactly what you're dealing with. any pitting? or just surface rust? also are you in the US or UK, for product availability. be careful to avoid scratches, swirls or removing bluing. I like to start slow/gentle with a metal polish with rust remover like turtle wax or Mothers brand and a toothbrush or rag and progress as needed, but I have all the time in the world. good luck.
 
I use #0000 Steel Wool with gun oil and rub gently, slowly and carefully checking the results often. This method works fast and well. After rust is removed, you will still see the damaging results of the rust, but the rust itself should be gone. Make sure you keep a thin coat of oil on the area so the rust does't return. That's it -plain & simple.
Soak with some Kroil or acetone/ATF mix... then use the above method (easy does it). Like Chief mentions, always keep the area oiled going forward.
Think hard about going further. Any more aggressive polishing to remove actual pitting that resulted from the rust will require a re-blue.
 
I stated using Kroil several years ago when Moly coated bullets became the rage in rifles. Now I use is all the time, more and more. It appears to be great for removing rust, let it soak into the rust, as it is a penetrating oil, and then remove. You will be surprised how much rust can be removed by just an overnight soaking and rubbing off with a paper towel, etc.
I would recommend Kroil and removal with an old toothbrush to begin with, and then you can become more aggressive if you need to in the removal.
Another step that will work is to purchase some JB paste ( a Brownell's product) bore cleaner. Use the paste and a cleaning patch to rub the paste onto the rust, it should not damage the blue area around the rust.
If you shoot lead bullets, you need the JB in the cleaning supplies, because when used with the Kroil, they are a great way to remove the lead from bores.
 
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What is the best way to remove rust from an old Webley 5 blued revolver? [the rust is mostly on one side of the cylinder]...
AND... after the rust is removed...what is the best way to polish without removing the remaining bluing?... thanks in advance...

A picture would be a huge asset to improving the answer you receive. The degree of rust can dictate the best solution. You have seen many excellent suggestions. I have used several of them with great success. But my rust might not look like your rust.
 
here's my rust/stain issue

What do you suggest on this?
Not really pitted just stained.
Not sure if anyone has dealt with this in the past?

Thanks
Masterbuck54
 

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I've had good luck with old military .22 caliber bore brushes and CLP. It's time consuming but works great.
 
Steel wool can leave behind microscopic steel "fibers" that will lead to future rust. Stick to the bronze.
 
My son told me about ADCO E-Z brite wipes, he uses them on his rifles. I was going to order some from www.midwayusa.com ...but, they say not for stainless. I wouldn't use them on the M&P's Melonite finish... the slide is a type of stainless steel called Martensite. But, because of it's high iron content it can rust. I'm still going with Kroil, just pass'in the word.

My ADCO cloth label says it is good for stainless steel.
 
What do you suggest on this?
Not really pitted just stained.
Not sure if anyone has dealt with this in the past?
If the rust is just on the backstrap, I'd use an oil and bronze wool as already suggested. I'd then degrease the area, and liberally cover in wax with a paste wax. After drying, I'd put wrap around grips that would hid the area and protect it from my sweat. I'd be certain to remove the grips at least once a year and clean and re-apply a thick coat of paste wax.

Before waxing, you could do a cold blue touch up of the area. Cold blue doesn't usually look great, but it will add some protection to prevent the area from beginning to rust again. Then cover with wax, then cover with grips.

If ti looks that way other than the grips, I'd consider a hot reblue, or some other coating. Or sell it as is.

EDIT: note I am vain about my firearms--if you are not, and it functions and you like it, just brush the rust off and keep it oiled well.
 
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You are right it's the other way around, sorry... they're not recommended for blued surfaces. senior moment...:rolleyes:


I have used the "Magic Cloth" on blued guns numerous times, with great success. The secret is knowing when to stop rubbing. If you're not careful, it will take off the blue too. Blueing is just fancy rust.
 
If the rust isn't bad I'd start with rubbing the area with Renaissance Wax or another good brand of past wax. Often times this is all that needed and the blueing won't be affected at all. If this doesn't do it I generally will go to a product like Flitz Metal Polish.
The important point is work carefully so you don't damage the remaining blue.
Jim
 
get some chore boy copper scouring pads at grocery store for a buck or two. Use with Kroil, and after Kroil has soaked in overnight.


Charlie
 
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