Blew up my compensator!

ShrinkMD

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I was shooting my 629 PC v-comp, and after firing it the front part of the compensator blows apart! How could this happen?

I was shooting Hornady FTP over 2400, then some over 300MP. No problems. Then I was shooting some lead 200 RNFP over 21 gr 2400 with federal lp. I have shot plenty of this load before without leading or other problems. And then boom and the comp is broken.

Has this ever happened to anyone else? The rest of the gun seems fine, although I stopped shooting it for the day.

Any ideas? I will call S&W tomorrow for replacement part, or will they want to inspect the entire gun? It seems ok.
 

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Pressure vs. Steel. Pressure won. New part, shoot some more.

Hmmm, compensator came loose, and bullet hit compensator. Now, why didn't I think of that :e
A.F.
 
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People shoot the comps of their firearms all the time.

By the time the projectile got past the first couple of ports the pressure had already dropped considerably.

Hard to tell from one small image, but it looks like you had an impact.
 
I was wondering that, but how could the bullet come out of the muzzle sideways? I cleaned the gun and it seems fine. I had no sticky brass, no trouble opening the cylinder or other problems. The muzzle looks ok as well.

So how could a bullet break apart as it leaves the muzzle and then fly up at an angle to strike the comp? I'll upload some more pics later.

I'm really thankful no one got hurt. I hope this is a fluke, since I bought the gun (and a 627 v-comp) to shoot and not just look pretty. It's strange, the other ports look clear.

I also shot my chronograph today, but that one is all my fault. Just one of those days I guess. I'm not superstitious, but I was at firing port 13. Maybe that was the problem.
 
V-Comp Problems

Looks like bullet separation from a hot load.
 
Looking at your picture it appears that the bolt that holds the comp on is bent. The top of the comp looks like it is a bit away from the frame. That is consistent with an impact.

Odds are the projectile did not break apart.

Have you ever had a flyer that you were sure was not your fault?

You say that this happened with lead projectiles. I bet they were cast and not swagged.

All it takes is a cast projectile that did not fill out the mold or had an air bubble in it. Obviously the weight would not be distributed evenly. So it will begin to wobble as soon at it leaves the rifling.

Similar things happen with swagged and jacketed projectiles as well but cast are the most common by a large number.
 
You're right, the comp was slightly ajar. Could it be that the screw loosened from the factory strength loads I was shooting and the comp wasn't perfectly centered? I still can't believe a bullet could break apart st the muzzle.

These were the Dardas hard cast bullets. I've fired thousands of them in different calibers.

I guess things just happen.
 
The compensator got loose, out of position, and a bullet struck it, just that simple. All the "bullet came apart" nonsense is just that. Call S&W tomorrow and order a replacement and new bolt for it. Either that, or remove it and do without, won't hurt a thing just get a bit more muzzle climb. Remember the old adage that the simplest, and most obvious, explanation is usually correct? Well, this is one of those cases.
 
+1 for comp bolt coming loose. I have the exact same 629 PC V-Comp and my bolt started to come loose one day at the range and I noticed it. I knew if I shot it more the Comp would catch the bullet so I put it down. Got home, loctite and tighten. Never a problem again. The real issue is, why would these Comp's be placed on a revolver without some type of loctite?

Both of my V-Comps - 627 and 629 had many loose screws and such that I had to loctite down. They both have been flawless since.

Bryant
 
I agree with the loctite, but don't the comps need to be removed for cleaning? Maybe tightening the screw every X number of rounds? I had put maybe 70 near factory strength loads through it and I guess that loosened it up. Of course I was flinching terribly (I wanted to chrony them so oh well, I got centered again with my 1911 afterward)

Guess I'll be bringing an Allen wrench to the range with it from now on.

I called S&W and they're sending out a replacement. The gun seems fine. The muzzle/barrel look fine, and the rounds slipped out if the chamber no problem. What else could I check on to make sure it's safe to shoot again?
 
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I could be wrong but I never took my Comp off for cleaning - as the Comp does not extend the barrel as it only provides the projectile with an open space once it leaves the barrel. I only clean the inside of the comp with a small brush and some solution but never taken it off.

The crud build up in the Comp will / should never reach that intensity to affect the bullet leaving the barrel.

Bryant
 
I had a comp on a 1911 that I normally shot (major) cast bullets. I have a set of steel dental tools that I clean the inside of the comp with. Scrape the accumulated lead deposits out. Spraying with break free, or other lube before shooting makes the cleaning easier.
 
I've been using a brass scraper and bronze brushes to keep the comp ports clean. That hasn't been a problem, even with lead rounds.

From now on I'll be bringing an Allen wrench and checking the tightness, especially after warmer 44 magnum. It must be the power of the 44's recoil, because shooting pretty warm 357 loads (125 jhp over 16.5 of 2400 or 158 LSWC over 14.5 of 2400) in the 627 did not shake it loose. And I put hundreds of magnums through it one day, no problem. An N frame shooting 357 magnum really soaks up the recoil!
 
Bolt on comps were never a very good idea. On a firearm anything that can loosen from repeated impact will, eventually. Ask anyone who has shot a Charter Arms revolver very much. You have to constantly keep retightening the screws. Loc-tite will help some but won't eliminate it.
 
Threadlocking Compound

I use Vibra-Tite which is a threadlocking compound that I got from MSC Corp. It is used differently than Loctite in that you apply it to the threads, allow it to dry for 30 minutes and then reassemble. It is designed to allow the screws to be moved or removed but not vibrated loose. It works for me for compensator bolts, sideplate screws or shotgun choke tubes.
 
I am curious about what type of ammunition S&W recommends. I wonder if lead bullets and comps are a no-no?
 

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