Bolt lube question

CLP does evaporate. And it separates in the bottle, so you have to remember to shake it up. I use EWL or TW25B. Work great and are what was recommended in my armorer classes
 
I use Frog Lube on my Sport and its never failed so far. Worth a shot. I now use it on all of my firearms.
 
I switched to Mobil 1 10W-30 from various gun oils. The black surface of the bolt still seems to absorb it, but the bolt works just fine. I'm not sure that the bolt has to look 'wet' in order to work properly. But Mobil 1 is a whole lot cheaper than 'high tech' gun oil.
 
Mobile One 10w-30 mixed 3:1 with synthetic ATF. Works great, helps clean and is immune to heat. The inside of a auto engine gets a lot hotter than your guns do. A wet AR15/M16 bolt and BCG are happy ones. Sure the oil may attract some grit, but oily grit is better than dry grit. You are going to get grit no matter what. That is why you do quick field wipe downs.
 
I switched to Gun Butter awhile back...haven't used anything since. I am now using it on all my semi-autos, revolvers and my shotgun. It works great on my M&P 15. A little goes a long way and it stays where you put it. My BCG never runs dry...but it's a Piston model so it seldom gets dirty and never runs hot.

SMI Lower Parts Kit | Gun Butter

http://www.gunbutter.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Receiver-and-Carrier-Lube-mod-copy.jpg

Click on the photos to enlarge....step by step AR15 lube instructions.
 
I use WD-40 and put Shooters Choice bolt grease on the areas that slide against other surfaces. No issues so far.
 
Don't forget; the ONLY place the BCG needs oil is on the glides that it rides on, and for the bolt mechanism itself- and there, it only needs oil on its' glides, the rings, and the extractor needs a drop. Not 12, just 1 drop.

Having a wet BCG is just asking for oil to get everywhere, and for the entire rifle to become a grime magnet.

GIVE THE MAN A KWEPIE DOLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd modify this slightly though. While he may be using "oil" as a generic term, standard petroleum oil is going to burn off due to the high temperature combustion gases that pass through the carrier group. This both removes lubrication and forms carbon in many areas.

I prefer a moly based grease for the bolt cam area (the cam surfaces on the pin slot in the carrier) and a touch on the rear surface of the bolt lugs.

You do need a thin film of some type of lube on the exterior of the carrier, simply for rust protection. You can get that with wet fingers or a wet cloth, it shouldn't drip.

Other than that, the guide rails and the sides or the gas block are the areas where the BCG actually contacts the receiver and needs lube.

My preference is Dri-Slide, a dry film moly lube that goes on with a carrier fluid, which evaporates to leave the dry film that doesn't attract & keep dirt, powder particulates and other ****. However, you can use what ever lube you like in this manner.
 
I use motor oil. I usually have some top quality Silkolene left over fter changing the oil, so I put it in a regular squirty oil can.
I use it in all my hardware.
 
Switched to Slip2000 EWL. Seems to work a bit better. May be just the placebo effect but that's ok.
 
GIVE THE MAN A KWEPIE DOLL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'd modify this slightly though. While he may be using "oil" as a generic term, standard petroleum oil is going to burn off due to the high temperature combustion gases that pass through the carrier group. This both removes lubrication and forms carbon in many areas.

I prefer a moly based grease for the bolt cam area (the cam surfaces on the pin slot in the carrier) and a touch on the rear surface of the bolt lugs.

You do need a thin film of some type of lube on the exterior of the carrier, simply for rust protection. You can get that with wet fingers or a wet cloth, it shouldn't drip.

Other than that, the guide rails and the sides or the gas block are the areas where the BCG actually contacts the receiver and needs lube.

My preference is Dri-Slide, a dry film moly lube that goes on with a carrier fluid, which evaporates to leave the dry film that doesn't attract & keep dirt, powder particulates and other ****. However, you can use what ever lube you like in this manner.

I use 'Dry-Slide' also. I bought my first container for lubing the cables on my Harley's.

Another lube which works on the same principle is "Lock Ease".
Used for freeing up frozen locks. After the carrier fluid evaporates nothing is left behind but powdered graphite.
Graphite doesn't attract dirt and grime.
 
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Mobil 1 seems to have gathered quite a loyal following.

I use SuperLube Products. Hi-temp synthetic oils and grease with Teflon. Available at most hardware stores.
I use their grease on stuff like my M-1 Garands and M-1As and their oil on pistols and ARs.



 
I use Mobil 1 5w30 on my AR's. I apply using something like this. A little bit on the BCG where the 2 holes are and just behind the lugs on the bolt.

HandHeldOilPump1.jpg
 
I use FrogLube, always has worked great for me, easy to clean afterwards.
 
Excellent post reviving skills, young padowan... only 14 months old lol. You probably could have found a newer cleaning thread to pimp Froglube, there's a ton of them :D



Here's a recent one over in the pistol forum...



http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-...d-you-froglube-2014-a.html?highlight=Froglube


You obviously misinterpret my intentions, I in no way meant to "pimp" anything. I post through tapatalk and the date is at times difficult to see.

But thank you for pointing it out, I am sure everyone here appreciates you being a necro policeman and a defender against "pimping" products from people who have had good experience with them.
 

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