Book Recommendations and Hodgden Clays question

DrewW

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Hey guys I am just getting into pistol shooting and realizing I am going to have to start reloading. I currently reload shotshells on a MEC 9000G so I have a basic understanding but after a little reading I know that reloading shotshells is completely different than metallic reloading.

So here is the deal, in shotshell reloading there are a few reloading manuals that everyone considers to be better than others so what manuals would you all recommend to someone wanting to start out reloading? I would like a manual that goes pretty in depth into all of the processes but also something that has some reloading data as well.

Also the shotgun load that I usually use I use with Hodgden Clays powder, it has a pistol load on the keg but do any of you use clays for pistol reloading? I plan to reload target .38 Special loads for plinking to give you an idea of what I plan on doing. It would be nice to be able to use the Clays powder as I have alot of it in stock and that would be one less component I have to buy.

Thanks for your help guys.
 
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Hey guys I am just getting into pistol shooting and realizing I am going to have to start reloading. I currently reload shotshells on a MEC 9000G so I have a basic understanding but after a little reading I know that reloading shotshells is completely different than metallic reloading.

So here is the deal, in shotshell reloading there are a few reloading manuals that everyone considers to be better than others so what manuals would you all recommend to someone wanting to start out reloading? I would like a manual that goes pretty in depth into all of the processes but also something that has some reloading data as well.

Also the shotgun load that I usually use I use with Hodgden Clays powder, it has a pistol load on the keg but do any of you use clays for pistol reloading? I plan to reload target .38 Special loads for plinking to give you an idea of what I plan on doing. It would be nice to be able to use the Clays powder as I have alot of it in stock and that would be one less component I have to buy.

Thanks for your help guys.
 
Drew go to Hodgdons wed site .Im sure they have some 38 special loads that can be loaded with clays powder
 
I've loaded lots of 38 Special loads with clays for the same reason. I load shotshells as well and like using one powder for both.

Glenn
 
I load .38, .45 ACP, and 9mm with Clays. Burns very clean and is accurate in my guns. Not the best choice for higher velocities, but great with target loads.
 
Looks like the clays will work fine then, I knew it was pretty clean burning in the shotshells wasn't sure if it would remain that way in pistol or not. There are several loads on Hodgden's site so I think I will just use that for powder, atleast starting out.

Ok so how about books? What reloading manuals would you recommend for someone getting ready to get into metallic reloading? Or is pretty much any one of the books from the major manufactures fine?
 
I am quite partial to the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook ($20.00 or so) and you need at least one other current manual and that would be Hodgdon's Reloading manual and the Speer Manual is also quite good.

Do not rely on just one manual.

The Lyman has pretty much the whole story on casting and reloading - read it cover to cover a couple of times. Same with the other manuals.

Good luck and welcome to the "Club"!

Dale53
 
Just one suggestion with Clays and manuals. I had a KB using it in 40S&W in a Browning High Power. The load was a "book" maximum one from the Lyman #47. After the KB I started doing some investigating and found that the Lyman manual load was .5gr over what Hodgdon had for a maximum.

Don't get me wrong, Clays is a good powder for handgun cartridges, just watch where you get your data for it. If it were me, I would stick to Hodgdon's data. The pressure curve is super steep when you get outside of it.

I have used it in revolver loads with no ill affects. It is clean burning and has low charge weights, that is something to think about when looking for a light recoil load.

FWIW
 
p.s. I need to add this too. Use the powder manufacturer's websites. Most of them have data right on them. Those are a great place to start.

One other valuable place is handloads.com. They have a load database that has most of the manufacturer's data in it. There are some "guest" postings as well and those should be left alone until you get your proverbial "sea legs" in reloading.

The best manual for data, hands down is the Lee. The worst manual for being a sales pitch is, you guessed it, the Lee. As far as getting information on loads and such, if I didn't have the internet I could survive with that one manual. Again, it just pulls data from several sources and puts it in one place. I don't think they tested every load in there, but that is just me.

The other suggestions are good to, I just thought I would add this little caveat.
 
Smith Crazy mentioned this, but let me expand. Clays has a very steep pressure curve. If you don't know what this means, it means that once the maximum safe level is reached, pressure starts to rise expotentially. Simpler put, a 10% increase in charge weight might yield a 50% increase in pressure.(just pulled those numbers out of thin air as an illustration) If you're doing light to medium target loads, it isn't an issue. If you want max loads, use another powder. Also, charge weights with Clays are pretty small and you can easily triple charge a .38 case. .38 cases are hard to see into on a progressive press like a 550, so if you are using one of these be careful.
 
I agree with Dale53 as long as you're going to be reloading Cast bullets. I like the Hornady Manual but then it's the ONLY one I know of that includes information for reloading the .22 Remington "Jet" Magnum cartridge.

So, whatever manual or manuals you choose make sure they have the information - cartridges, bullets and powders - that you are thinking about using.
 
There are some "guest" postings as well and those should be left alone until you get your proverbial "sea legs" in reloading.
To clarify what Skip said here, we have always confirmed the loads posted by "quests" as having a published source somewhere. It got to be such a pain to research, we stopped accepting "guest" loads.
 
I will check out handloads and get some information off of their. I was kinda worried that the clays wouldn't be great for starting out because I saw how low the charge weights were on Hodgden's site so I may get a different powder starting out, don't want to risk blowing up a gun.

Also someone mentioned being careful if loading on a progressive, I haven't bought a press yet but I don't think I am going to get a progressive just because I would like to be able to also load some small batches of rifle ammo and from what I have read I can't do that on a progressive. Also I don't plan to shot enough ammo to justify a progressive right now.

I enjoy reloading shotshells and assume I will enjoy metallic reloading so I have no problem with it taking a few hours to get enough ammo loaded up for a shooting session.
 
Drew;
I recommend to new reloaders the relatively new Lee CLASSIC turret press. It is very reasonably priced at places like F&M Reloading, Midway, and Natchez. It does ANY rifle cartridge as well as the various pistol cartridges. You can change calibers in seconds and the extra turrets are a fraction of the cost of other makes. It also has some very innovative engineering aspects. Really good press at low prices.

After you learn how, you can turn out 150-200 an hour of match quality reloads. You can operate it like a single stage or you can operate it as it was originally designed.

I have two Dillon 550B's and wouldn't want to give them up, but I have the Lee Classic Turret for small runs and quick caliber changes.

Dale53
 
Thanks Dale I have been looking at the Lee as I am a college student on a budget but I didn't know about the quality. If the Lee classic turret press is a decent press that is probably what I will end up with right now.
 
DrewW;
I can say first hand that the Lee Classic Turret (be SURE and get the Classic Turret as the standard turret does not have a long enough stroke for some rifle cartridges). The Classic Turret has a long enough stroke for about ANY rifle cartridge including, I believe the Browning .50 Caliber machine gun cartridge.

The Classic has a frame of cast iron and is made sturdier than the standard. One thing I REALLY enjoy is the handling of primers - no used primers all over the floor as they are positively collected (fall from the center of the shaft into a plastic hose that you can direct into a jug).

Dale53
 
I did the same thing with my Square Deals. I took a 30/06 cartridge, unsized after firing, cut it off and jammed it into the spent primer hole. Then I went to the hardware store and got some soft plastic tubing and forced it over the case, sticking the other end into a 3lb coffee can. Works great although it may need to be "glued" in at a later date. Just in the trial stage right now. Working OK.
 
Originally posted by smith crazy:
I did the same thing with my Square Deals. I took a 30/06 cartridge, unsized after firing, cut it off and jammed it into the spent primer hole. Then I went to the hardware store and got some soft plastic tubing and forced it over the case, sticking the other end into a 3lb coffee can. Works great although it may need to be "glued" in at a later date. Just in the trial stage right now. Working OK.

Skip, that is an excellent idea! The tube had occurred to me, but not how to attach it. Thanks.

Back to the OP. Drew, I like Lyman's general reloading manual. Lots of information about the process of reloading and quite a bit about shooting in general. Same with the Speer manual. Both also have load data.
 
Some pictures:

hosecase1.jpg


SDB1.jpg


3lbcan1.jpg


Excuse the mess on the floor!
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