Bought a new 642. I have questions.

[AppStFan]

I started out my law enforcement career in 1980 carrying S&W revolvers. After transitioning to semi-autos it has been many years since I have owned a revolver. Now that I am in retirement mode I got the itch for another revolver so yesterday I picked up a new 642 at my LGS. I have three primary questions that I did not see addressed in the manual.

1. Lubrication. What are the lubrication points? A pic or video would be helpful. Also, what do you suggest using for lubrication. I do not want to take off the side plate or remove the cylinder.

2. What should I use on the frame for cleaning, protection and rust prevention that will not harm the frame and cause the coating that S&W uses to come off?

3. What direction does the ejector rod turn in order to tighten it? I don't want it backing out and locking everything up.

Thanks in advance for the help from you knowledgeable folks here on the forum. After carrying Glocks and M&P's both on and off duty for many years it's kind of like starting over with a revolver. I want to make sure I get started off on the right foot. Although a semi-auto will continue to be my primary edc I do plan to carry the 642 on occasion.

 

[ContinentalOp]

1. You'll probably get lots of variations of answers when it comes to lubrication, none of which are necessarily wrong. Fortunately, the 642 doesn't require a lot. Here are the points that I use:

1 drop where the yoke rotates in the frame.
1 drop at the front of the cylinder at the yoke, then rotate cylinder.
1 drop on the center pin at the rear of the cylinder where it engages the bolt in the frame.
1 drop on the hand in the frame slot.
Holding the gun upside down, 1 drop on either side of the trigger where it enters the frame. Let capillary action draw the lube in, then cycle the trigger a few times.

Wipe off any excess. None of these points require any kind of disassembly.

Any lube will work. Right now I'm using Lubriplate. I've used Gun Butter oil. A needle applicator is real handy. Since I've started using one I won't apply lube any other way.

2. Since the frame is aluminum alloy, you don't really need to worry about rust. Stay away from solvents with ammonia when cleaning. I'll wipe the steel components down with the lube I'm using, then wipe off. I've also used Break Free CLP.

3. Ejector rod is screwed backwards.

Hope that helps.

 

[Hondo44]

1. Any points where two surfaces contact during functioning use just a smear of lubrication.

2. A silicone cloth wipe down.

3. Left hand thread; tightens to the left and loosens when turned to the right.

 

[AppStFan]

Thanks for the replies folks. This is very helpful as I venture back into the world of revolvers.

 

[3rdgeargrndrr]

You will kick yourself for not shooting them sooner.
I hope the 642 isnt your last.

 

[haywood]

You will kick yourself for not shooting them sooner.
I hope the 642 isnt your last.

That's the problem with J-Frames, once you start you want more.

 

[skwchock]

I use the same methods that ContinentalOp described. I also wipe the whole gun down to get any fingerprints off the metal.

 

[kaaskop49]

Surprised no one has mentioned: when tightening (if necessary) the ejector rod, put snap caps or fired casings in the chambers so the extractor star is not possibly damaged. BTW, if the 642 is to be an 'always gun,' you will need 1 or 2 more in case one requires service or is placed into evidence. Check 6, partner.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103

 

[ContinentalOp]

BTW, if the 642 is to be an 'always gun,' you will need 1 or 2 more in case one requires service or is placed into evidence.

I learned that lesson the hard way. A few years ago my 642-1 was the only gun I had. The hammer stud broke and left me unarmed. While S&W customer service did replace it, it took two months. Two months without a gun. While not the end of the world, it would've been more reassuring if I had something else to carry. That replacement 642-1 is now carried, usually as a BUG but sometimes by itself, while I have a 642ND as a spare gun or, on occasion, to carry along with my 642-1. It is nice to have options.

Also, some people like to carry an airweight J-frame and fire it occasionally, while using a steel J-frame as a range/practice/training gun to do the bulk of their shooting. Something worth considering. I know I have.

 

[Oracle]

I highly recommend watching the GunBlue490 videos on Youtube. He was the armorer for the NYPD S&W revolvers.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ujyLn3lHBc&t=930s[/ame]

 

[S-W4EVER]

That's the problem with J-Frames, once you start you want more.

+1. That's the truth! While I've got a couple other concealable firearms (Walther PPS & Glock 43) I always come back to one of my J Frames.

My latest J Frames (M442-2 & 340PD) are just about the only revolvers I've owned that were perfect right out of the box. The boot grips are very concealable and even though I have large hands they fit my hand perfectly (and I've retrofit some of my older J Frames with them).

Funny thing is most of my J Frames are Centennials, only ones I have with an exposed hammer are my M36 (my original J Frame, purchased when I was in college) and my M649.