Brake failure on my Truck...

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Texas Gulf Coast...
2000 Chevy suburban 4x4 90k miles and
still crisp.
Get in to head to the Lake. Brake pedal
goes to the floor barely get her stopped before
smacking a parked car.

Back back into my space...Trail of brake fluid on the ground..look under hood can't see much but see some fluid.
For you mechanics shadetree of otherwise...
Can a master cylinder go that bad that quick ??

X
 
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2000 Chevy suburban 4x4 90k miles and
still crisp.
Get in to head to the Lake. Brake pedal
goes to the floor barely get her stopped before
smacking a parked car.

Back back into my space...Trail of brake fluid on the ground..look under hood can't see much but see some fluid.
For you mechanics shadetree of otherwise...
Can a master cylinder go that bad that quick ??

X
 
You need to determine where the fluid is coming from. Master cylinder, wheel cylinder, hard line, flex line, caliper or bleed screws. 9 years and/or 90k is a little early for those components to go out but it can happen. I had to recently replace my front calipers because the passenger side was locking up. It's a '98 with 140K on it. I personally think that was early as well but it's mechanical and things happen.
 
I have a 2000 GMC sierra. It has 123,000 miles. Just last week I had brake pads put on. They were paper thin and the emergency brake was gone and I didnt know it!
 
Fill it with fluid and have someone pump the brakes while you look under for the leak. It should be obvious.
 
Did your wife recently take out a large insurance policy on you?
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90K sounds early to me, but anything can happen. I've replaced parts with new dealer parts that were bad from the factory. Also, if the 'Burban spent a lot of time at your beach house, there might be salt corrosion to consider.
 
If you sprung a leak large enough to leave a trail you had a major "malfunction at the junction" so to speak. Usually a seal failure will seep initially before the big blow out. If your master cylinder is low or empty a warning light should have made it's appearance known. Is it possible that a piece of road debris damaged a flex line routed to one of the front calipers?

Brian~
 
...had a temporary brake failure the other day...parked the warm car (Subaru Baja)in the driveway during a hard wet snow storm...snow melted rapidly but was falling WAY faster than it could melt...then the temperature dropped to zero in a matter of minutes (from the thirties)...car turned into an iceberg.

Next morning I could only open the right rear door...climbed over the seats and pushed the front doors open from the inside. After warming the car up for awhile...tried to move it...took several attempts to break it loose...backed out of the driveway...and almost NO BRAKES...had to run it back and forth a few times before the brakes worked loose...very strange...



.
 
Several years ago I was approaching a red light in my somewhat old jeep. Apply the brakes. They work. But then, boom, pedal goes right to the floor. A couple of quick pumps and nothing.

I'm awake now!

The aptly named "parking brake" stops me shortly before disaster strikes.

A pollution control diverter valve had rubbed against one of the brakelines coming out of the master cylinder, probably for years. It picked just that moment to rupture.

moral of the story? Inspect your brake lines. Know what you will do if they fail. Spend the time to adjust your mechanical parking brakes.
 
Paradise Road, your pads were wet when you parked and froze overnight. When you applied the brakes the next morning, the frozen pad was slick, but as friction warmed it up, you gradually got your brakes back. If you had applied your parking brake, the pads might have frozen to the disk, which can cause problems.
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Well seasoned truckers know not to apply the trailer parking brakes in wet winter weather, because they might have to thaw them with a torch.
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Don't ask me how I know this.
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Brake lines may be run atop of the frame rail.. Good chance one rusted to the genius location.
Peter
 
Originally posted by truckemup97:
Paradise Road, your pads were wet when you parked and froze overnight. When you applied the brakes the next morning, the frozen pad was slick, but as friction warmed it up, you gradually got your brakes back. If you had applied your parking brake, the pads might have frozen to the disk, which can cause problems.
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Well seasoned truckers know not to apply the trailer parking brakes in wet winter weather, because they might have to thaw them with a torch.
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Don't ask me how I know this.
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...ice on the pads makes sense to me...both on the trouble breaking them loose (glad I didn't break the pads off of the backing plates!)...and the temporary lack of brakes...

...my old Kenworth tandem dump truck sees use mostly in the summer hauling hot asphalt mix...but living at 9500 feet elevation...I do have to "sling the iron" occasionally to get the last 3/4 of a mile home. I have had to take a big hammer and whack a slack adjuster to get the shoes loose on occasion too...



.
 
As was said above, a leak of that proportion will become obvious by a reservoir top off and a pal to pump the peddle. "Theoretically" with a split master cylinder hydraulic system and a proportioning valve, your braking should have remained, albeit severely reduced, on two of the four wheels? Note I said theoretically? If the master cylinder is determined to be the culprit, don't forget to check within the vacuum booster for the power brakes for fluid.
 
Don't most newer cars have a brake warning light that indicates when brake fluid level is low?
 
Yup,
But an awful lot of folks mistake it for the old "hey stupid, your emergency brake is on 2 clicks" light? I'd bet, that when that incident described took place, the low brake fluid light, anti-lock system warning (if so equipped) and low brake pressure light all came on. He was too busy to notice, likely! What with having to pull the upholstery out of his a** and all!
 
Xfuzz: Does that vehicle spend much time down here at your beach house? I have replaced a lot of rusted lines on west end vehicles. Thats what it sounds like happened to you. Just one of those things that happen to west end and bolivar vehicles with all that salt air,sand, and salt water.
 
You've got a 2000 with only 90k miles!
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My 1999 Suburban just turned 290,000-yours is just getting broken in. Look at it this way, you got a GREAT vehicle, it's paid for, so think of any work done as a car note-so you pay 5-600 to fix it-you won't have to pay another "note" for a while. Over the past two years I have sunk around $1,800 in mine including new radiator, new AC compressor and new brakes-but compared to a new one with a note, I'm still WAYYYY ahead of the game. Plus I really like the 42 gallon gas tank.
GMC hate's my guts
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Originally posted by Xfuzz:
2000 Chevy suburban 4x4 90k miles and
still crisp.
Get in to head to the Lake. Brake pedal
goes to the floor barely get her stopped before
smacking a parked car.

Back back into my space...Trail of brake fluid on the ground..look under hood can't see much but see some fluid.
For you mechanics shadetree of otherwise...
Can a master cylinder go that bad that quick ??

X
90K isn't exactly quick and it could also be a line and it is a Chevy!!!
 
Well got it down from the third floor of
the parking garage..that was fun.
After getting it in the light Looks like
thoses of you suspected rust from the beach nailed it.
I drive it down to waters edge when I surf fish.
However, always wash it down good.I thought.

Looked like the hard line on the frame is shot.
Anyway, It's at the shop..here goes.

Thanks All.....
 
It'll be more expensive but if you're constantly down near the salt water then have them use stainless line. It'll hold up better.
 
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