Brand new 686, scratches/burrs on extractor "teeth", is this normal?

e dogg

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My awesome wife presented me with a new 686 as a birthday/Christmas gift this week, and we promptly took it to the range. I had wanted a 686 plus in 6" for years, and I have to say I am impressed with it. I started out with a few 38 SPL, and then fired ~50 357 cartridges through it. However.... After the range session I was cleaning it and noticed scratches on the extractor where the pawl engages it to advance the cylinder. It functions fine, but to me (who is not a revolver expert at all) it seems these scratches shouldn't be this pronounced after firing it 60 times. I apologize for the photo, it was the best I could get with my cell.

I will admit in my excitement I did dry fire it several times before shooting, which I understood was OK in this model.

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What you are seeing is machine tool marks not scratches, perfectly normal.

As long as function is fine continue shooting.

be safe
Ruggy
 
Its hard to see in the photos i took but there are definite scratches from the little mechanism (dont know the name of it) which advances the cylinder. If i run my finger along the edge of that little part, it is quite sharp, and the 'gear teeth' on the extractor have developed a slight burr from that contact. If this is normal I wont worry about it though- this thing is a dream to shoot- even though coming from semi autos its a learning curve. This trigger is on par with or even a little better than my Wife's custom Kimber 1911 :D

Is there a consensus if dry firing is safe with the L frame revolvers?
 
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According to the information on the S&W web site, dry firing is permissible. I would recommend using snap caps when dry firing revolvers with frame mounted firing pins. (just my personal preference, not required)

Smith and Wesson does not recommend dry firing their rimfire products.
 
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IMO, the extractor star machining isn't up to snuff. There shouldn't be burrs or galling.
Since the shipping is free and service turnaround is fast I would send it back now for warranty work. Will probably get it back with a new star and hand.
I have no problem dry firing the centerfire guns.
 
Small scratches will diminish as the gun wears in.

My concern would be the alignment of the star; it looks decidedly tweaked counter-clockwise.

Dry-firing a center-fire S&W is fine; use snap-caps if it worries you.
 
Small scratches will diminish as the gun wears in.

My concern would be the alignment of the star; it looks decidedly tweaked counter-clockwise.

Dry-firing a center-fire S&W is fine; use snap-caps if it worries you.

Good catch! I'm sure that engagement could be scratching the extractor because it is a few degrees out of alignment! I'll contact S&W
 
That one burr on the ratchet on the bottom on the bottom pic... yeah, that is a little excessive. OP, have you checked cylinder alignment; each separate charging hole/chamber to the forcing cone & barrel? Either way, if it shoots like the dream you say and it's not shaving bullets to the right or left of the forcing cone when shooting and is accurate... it's likely aligned well. That burr and gouge on the ratchet though is a little egregious and being new to Revolvers as you mentioned I'd send her back...
 
That one burr on the ratchet on the bottom on the bottom pic... yeah, that is a little excessive. OP, have you checked cylinder alignment; each separate charging hole/chamber to the forcing cone & barrel? Either way, if it shoots like the dream you say and it's not shaving bullets to the right or left of the forcing cone when shooting and is accurate... it's likely aligned well. That burr and gouge on the ratchet though is a little egregious and being new to Revolvers as you mentioned I'd send her back...

Per the previous user i took a closer look at the extractor alignment and noticed it can move 1-2 degrees relative to the cylinder, is that normal/acceptable?
 
It looks to me like in the 7 o'clock position of the ratchet, center piece there is some sort of damage, almost like some metal has been torn out. I'd sure have it looked at, since it is new.
Good luck
Steve W
 
I've mentioned several times that the SS extractors are always rough, a little time with a stone and light oil clean the pocket between the lugs and it smooths out the action big time.

At Smith & Wesson they just don't take the time to clean up after a timing check.
 
It looks to me like in the 7 o'clock position of the ratchet, center piece there is some sort of damage, almost like some metal has been torn out. I'd sure have it looked at, since it is new.
Good luck
Steve W

I should have mentioned, we did inspect before shooting and those marks only appear after. I ran my finger along the edge of the part that acts on the extractor and there is a very sharp edge on it. I have experience with semi autos, and am confident enough in my skills to polish the feed ramps and any parts that look like they need it- but I wanted to learn about revolvers more before i start changing anything.
 
I should have mentioned, we did inspect before shooting and those marks only appear after. I ran my finger along the edge of the part that acts on the extractor and there is a very sharp edge on it. I have experience with semi autos, and am confident enough in my skills to polish the feed ramps and any parts that look like they need it- but I wanted to learn about revolvers more before i start changing anything.

It's easy to overlook a small detail on a new gun/car/house when you first get it because of the initial excitement of it. It's certainly happened to me. I don't think the revolvers "hand" could or would create a gouge like that in the ratchet from working it's action. But hey, I've seen crazier things happen.

Knock that burr off and clean it up to make it smooth and your GTG...
 

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