Brass tumbling question
- Thread starter Racer X
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I went to corn cob media years ago as I found the walnuts were hard enough the finish was slightly "blasted" type finish, where the corn cob leaves a smooth shiny finish. I did use walnut on old grungy range brass that needed crud removed.
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Best advice if you're interest is in clean brass. If you want a high sheen, you'll need to do more. You needn't change media until what you have works no longer or it takes a long time to clean. Media is cheap considering the mileage you get from it. I've used walnut hulls, corn cob and a mixture of the two. End result is the same.
gwpercle
Member
Rooster Lab's - Rooster Bright cartridge case polish .
Treat un-treated media or add as a rejuvenator to media .
Makes brass cases shiny bright and doesn't contain ammonia like Brasso does . You should avoid ammonia containing polishes ...
Gary
Treat un-treated media or add as a rejuvenator to media .
Makes brass cases shiny bright and doesn't contain ammonia like Brasso does . You should avoid ammonia containing polishes ...
Gary
Greenjoytj
Member
I would not use Brasso on my cartridge brass because of the ammonia content. Ammonia on brass just like Sweets 7.62 to remove copper from rifle barrels.
Pick a liquid polish with out the ammonia smell.
Pick a liquid polish with out the ammonia smell.
And you can use a 20% off coupon.
I use a Dillon CV500 vibratory tumbler I bought back in 2000. I use the harbor freight "fine" with Nu Finish car polish pretreatment. Cleans, polishes, and doesn't plug up 223 cases. A tore up dryer sheet does collect the dirt pretty well. You can add some denatured alcohol to the mix and it will collect the dust to the sides of the bowl.
BillBro
Member
A little ISSO metal polish. I think that's what its called.
Boudiepitbull
Member
I've always used Flitz Tumbler Media Additive for brass cases in my tumbler. A little goes a long way...
Case tumbling/cleaning is probably the most talked about but least important part of reloading. If you ask 10 reloaders what they use in their media you are likely to get 12 different "formula" (don't forget to use the ground monkey thigh bones for your media, absolutely necessary!).
I reloaded for 12 years before I got a wobbler. No ruined dies, no scratched chambers as I just wiped each case as I inspected it (my first step for reloading). I soon went to a rotary and tried a dozen different media with a dozen different media "formula" from pet litter to cat litter (Good Mews worked), wood chunks rice, peas/beans, ad infinitum. Some work some don't. I finally settled on corn cob blast media, 14-20 (tried wet tumbling but didn't care for the mess and extra processing and I don't need pristine case IDs or primer pockets).
No additives are "needed" and I won't use any rouge or abrasive as it can become embedded i the brass. The only additive I use is auto polish/wax for the thin film left on the brass to prevent tarnish. Crushed walnut shells used alone will give clean shiny brass, not quite as shiny as corn cob, but will clean the brass very well. For a tarnish resistance, a bit of auto wax will keep your brass shiny...
Case tumbling is 90% cosmetic. New reloaders seem to be lead to believe shiny brass is essential and they must use a complex formula for media, and a bunch of equipment. I have experience that shows the opposite. I have not ruined any dies or damaged any guns; My "brown" handloads are just as accurate, function just as well as my ultra glossy, inside and out, case handloads. My ego doesn't need a boost from pretty handloads and I don't care what the shooter next to me at the range thinks.
I apologize for this rant (I went passed this thread 4 or five times before my grouchy old man came out), but we experienced reloaders sharing our opinions often mislead the new reloader looking in on a forum for basic information.
I reloaded for 12 years before I got a wobbler. No ruined dies, no scratched chambers as I just wiped each case as I inspected it (my first step for reloading). I soon went to a rotary and tried a dozen different media with a dozen different media "formula" from pet litter to cat litter (Good Mews worked), wood chunks rice, peas/beans, ad infinitum. Some work some don't. I finally settled on corn cob blast media, 14-20 (tried wet tumbling but didn't care for the mess and extra processing and I don't need pristine case IDs or primer pockets).
No additives are "needed" and I won't use any rouge or abrasive as it can become embedded i the brass. The only additive I use is auto polish/wax for the thin film left on the brass to prevent tarnish. Crushed walnut shells used alone will give clean shiny brass, not quite as shiny as corn cob, but will clean the brass very well. For a tarnish resistance, a bit of auto wax will keep your brass shiny...
Case tumbling is 90% cosmetic. New reloaders seem to be lead to believe shiny brass is essential and they must use a complex formula for media, and a bunch of equipment. I have experience that shows the opposite. I have not ruined any dies or damaged any guns; My "brown" handloads are just as accurate, function just as well as my ultra glossy, inside and out, case handloads. My ego doesn't need a boost from pretty handloads and I don't care what the shooter next to me at the range thinks.
I apologize for this rant (I went passed this thread 4 or five times before my grouchy old man came out), but we experienced reloaders sharing our opinions often mislead the new reloader looking in on a forum for basic information.
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Its ok, your just suffering from OFS*. Pretty common past a certain age. You live on this Earth long enough and it is hard to deal with the abject ignorance of young people..
The longer you live, the more you should know. What is hard is remembering from where we came.
*Old F_rt Syndrome
smithra_66
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Flitz makes a great case tumbling additive, as does Dillon.
I use both with good results.
I use both with good results.
When starting new batch of walnut maybe a TBSP of brass polish and turn it on without any brass to mix it up awhile. As the media starts getting dusty, add a little water (TBSP at a time) and mix before adding brass. This cuts down the dust, and increase the friction coefficient of the brass. The water evaporates off and collects some dust with it on the lid, which can be easily cleaned off. Am careful how much water am adding, and if the walnut starts sticking to the brass, or the brass is getting duller, have added too much.
gwpercle
Member
Close ... it's IOSSO Case Polish and media additive .
Use on a rag to polish brass and add to or treat untreated tumbling media .
Good stuff and works well .
Gary
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Actually, I have no thoughts, good or bad, about what others do to/with their handloads. Most of my forum replies are aimed at newer reloaders (it's difficult to tell a long time reloader anything! 
). So, I like to keep my replies simple and often try to dispel suggestions for a bunch of equipment to start, aka; K.I.S.S. Pristine, shiny brass does not make any handload shoot better. "Ruined dies or damaged guns" are not an excuse for a new reloader to spend hundreds of dollars on unnecessary equipment right from the start.
A couple of the first reloaders I ever encountered were using brown 45 ACP ammo and their targets showed the quality of their handloads, not how pretty they were.
). So, I like to keep my replies simple and often try to dispel suggestions for a bunch of equipment to start, aka; K.I.S.S. Pristine, shiny brass does not make any handload shoot better. "Ruined dies or damaged guns" are not an excuse for a new reloader to spend hundreds of dollars on unnecessary equipment right from the start. A couple of the first reloaders I ever encountered were using brown 45 ACP ammo and their targets showed the quality of their handloads, not how pretty they were.
Just walnut shells tumbled for 1 1/2 hours does the trick.
Nu-Finish for the win.
I only add a capfull every 5th - 10th load of brass (depending on how dirty the brass is).
I only dry tumble because it takes the grime off the cases and my hands don't get as dirty when reloading them.
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