Break-in ammo for M&P Shield 380 EZ

[tjkoko]

Recommendations needed for breaking in my new M&P Shield 380 EZ. Included with the purchase were fifty rounds of Hornady Critical Defense 380 but I thought I'd use a cheaper round for break-in. And I've broken in plenty of 1911s.

TIA

 

[malph]

Recommendations needed for breaking in my new M&P Shield 380 EZ. Included with the purchase were fifty rounds of Hornady Critical Defense 380 but I thought I'd use a cheaper round for break-in. And I've broken in plenty of 1911s.

TIA

Most of the modern plastic guns don't really need a break-in the way a tightly fit 1911 might.

Just clean it, lube it and shoot it. Repeat as often as you wish.

 

[CB3]

I like to run a variety of fmj ammo through new guns for 1-200 rounds. Checks for ammo tolerance, wears machined surfaces to be smoother, tests overall reliability or discovers problems. For .380, I stick with 95 grn ammo and include European as well as American manufacturers.

Because of scarcity and cost for .380 at the moment, don't be tempted to buy a whole bunch of just one type because it is all you can find available. Spread the love. You don't want to get stuck with expensive ammo that doesn't run well in your new gun, although that is unlikely. Be patient and find 3-5 different types.

If you plan to use the gun defensively, research your options well as that may almost double your per round cost for test ammo. Wait to buy the more expensive stuff until you are sure your gun is reliable with ball ammo.

 

[tjkoko]

Most of the modern plastic guns don't really need a break-in the way a tightly fit 1911 might.

Just clean it, lube it and shoot it. Repeat as often as you wish.

I like to run a variety of fmj ammo through new guns for 1-200 rounds. Checks for ammo tolerance, wears machined surfaces to be smoother, tests overall reliability or discovers problems. For .380, I stick with 95 grn ammo and include European as well as American manufacturers. .............If you plan to use the gun defensively, research your options well as that may almost double your per round cost for test ammo. Wait to buy the more expensive stuff until you are sure your gun is reliable with ball ammo.

Thanks to all. I've read a couple of threads here from a couple of years ago concerning stove piping due to weak magazine springs. My 380 was manufactured in April 2021 so should I expect that problem to have been solved?

I've also read that Galloway's magazine extension springs may provide a cure for stove piping.

 

[hardluk1]

My wife and I tend to start with what we hope to carry and after 50 rounds Your getting to know your pistol and loose it up a bit then you can try what filts your budget for practice ammo. I reload 7 cartridge's so practice ammo is home rolled . I don't own a 380 and only ones I have fired are my wifes tcp and bersa and nether are ammo picky so make your best guess .

Missouri bullets hi-tek coated are what I use the most of and 95gr coated rn for the 380 . Carry is underwood 90gr gd standard load, not +P.

 

[LVSteve]

If cleaned and lubed properly on receipt, a modern, mass-produced polymer pistol is unlikely to need any mechanical break in. For me, the first 100 rounds or so are more a case of gaining familiarity with the gun than breaking it in.

 

[jurek]

Like others posted - don't think about break-in period and do not waste ammo on it.
Every handgun need some amount of cycling process before it smoothen out. But you will gain the same result with simple dry firing.
Rack the slide without mag - press the trigger.
Rack the slide with mag, remove mag, release the slide with slide stop/release button.
Insert magazine.
Repeat these for few days, 10 minutes a day - you are good to go.

Most important is - what ammo are you going to carry and how this ammo works with your handgun.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Contrare to others here. I just started loading and shooting my 3 Shields (when ever I could)when I got them. They have NEVER FAILED. I personally think its silly and expensive to run 100's to a 1000's rds through a firearm before you trust it.

 

[tjkoko]

........Rack the slide with mag, remove mag, release the slide with slide stop/release button. ........

I disagree with dropping the slide on an empty chamber. I've heard that doing so can batter the locking lugs on both the barrel and slide. At lease that's what's stated concerning the 1911 platform. 8))

(EDIT) I can clearly see cycling the slide hundreds of times but not "dropping it' as described previously.

 

[jurek]

I disagree with dropping the slide on an empty chamber.

This apply to high precision 1911 / 2011 only.

I've got Staccatos that I would never do this to them (without reason). However during defensive classes under the stress it is not avoidable and they got slide dropped on empty chamber. They are still OK.
My not expensive RIA 1911s get slammed all the time. 3 years of this procedure did nothing to them.

Plastic pistols don't care about empty chamber. These have a good tolerance in design to survive worse things than dropping on empty chamber.

The point of dry fire procedure described previously is to imitate all functionality of handgun without the ammo.
If somebody is worried about "empty chamber" issue - just use dummy round with mag, however in that case the won't be "slide locked back" on empty mag.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Dropping/closing the slide on a semi auto pistol ain't no big deal. Been happening for close to 200 years with no mishaps or spontanious disassemblies. Ya'll need something else to worry about.

 

[tjkoko]

Dropping/closing the slide on a semi auto pistol ain't no big deal. Been happening for close to 200 years with no mishaps or spontanious disassemblies. Ya'll need something else to worry about.

200 years??!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!??!?!!??!? WOW, man.

 

[jurek]

200 years??!?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!??!?!!??!? WOW, man.

It is 46.7 years of cat's age.
Still acceptable if he lives that way