Breaking in a rifle barrel- Truth or Fiction?

[Rastoff]

I've heard both ways. First that you must break in a barrel in order to maintain the best accuracy and then that it's a waste of time.

What do you all think? Do you have to do it or is it just wasting time and ammo?

I have a .308 that I will be picking up on Monday. I want the best accuracy I can get out of it so, I want to do things right. But, I don't want to waste expensive ammo if I don't have to. Time I have in abundance right now.

 

[Rule3]

Depends on if you believe in "truth or fiction"

Does it hurt to do so, No. Does it make a difference probably not.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/reloading/178547-guns-magazine-stop-madness-breaking-barrel.html

 

[carpriver]

Tomorrow I am heading to the range to fire my new rifle. I bought a Ruger Mini-14 2.23/5.56. I mounted a 3-32 Nikon 223 scope. I just shot my rifles I don't think a break- in period.

 

[mtgianni]

99 % of all shooters will not be able to tell the difference nor is it going to make much difference with 95% of actions out there. Do what floats your boat, but if it is not a custom bbl it probably won't matter much, IMO.

 

[growr]

I have worn out a number of m1a barrels shooting in high power matches and not done the whole break in thing.

They all got about 5-6000 rounds and then the throat was gone....bore was actually still looking pretty good....but you cannot set back a barrel on a gas gun.

So...they were given to a custom knife maker and he made a really nice set of knives for a client and made a skinner for me.

Randy

 

[BlueOvalBandit]

Do what I do, break it in while you sight in you optics, no ammo wasted.

And by break in I mean just shoot it, I don't bother with shoot one clean one. My off the shelf savage still shoots 3 shot groups at 100 yards I can cover with a dime, so I couldn't have messed it up that bad.

You're more likely to screw up accuracy by cleaning, usually as a result of dinging the crown.

 

[cussedemgun]

All barrels are not created equal

I've heard both ways. First that you must break in a barrel in order to maintain the best accuracy and then that it's a waste of time.

Most production guns today have hammer forged barrels (a process that forms the chamber, rifling, & outside contour all at the same time). They will usually not benefit much by the break in procedure.

A high grade custom barrel will probably have cut rifling. After cut rifling a barrel, it is customary to lap the bore to smooth it up so metal fowling is kept to a minimum. The break in process is the finishing touch of lapping, the quest for perfection.

With a new gun, the first cleaning will tell you if the bore is fowling excessively or not. As with all else, if it aint busted, don't fix it

I have had guns that lost their tight group after 10 or so shots due to metal fowling, others that would hold a group for 100 or more rounds.

 

[Vulcan Bob]

Like so many other things if it makes you feel better why not?

 

[Rastoff]

The only reason I'm asking this question is because 3 shots at 100 yards covered by a dime is nice, but I want 3 shots grouped smaller than 5" at 1,000 meters. I don't have that ability today, but I'm hoping to get there. For that I want the best I can get within my limited resources.

Like so many other things if it makes you feel better why not?

Sure, I could take the stance of, "It won't hurt so, why not?" But, at over $1/round it's not that simple. I have to make the most of what I have. I just don't want to waste the ammo if I don't have to.

 

[ErnieDeBord]

I have shot a 308 a LOT! Most where Remington Heavy barrel bolt action. I always do a 20 shot break-in. While doing this, I am also sighting in & fireforming brass. I don't know if you handload or not, but its a must! All my guns always like either Varget or 4064 powder. Also I use Lapua brass and Berger 168 bullets. Regards Ernie

 

[ErnieDeBord]

I would also like to add........On a new barrel that is CLEAN, I run a patch of "lock ease" thru it. I do it to all my barrels. A lot of the top benchrest shooter do the same ( Im not in the top YET) you can get it at NAPA auto parts. Get the little bottle, just a couple drops on a patch is all it takes......I am a very firm believer in this stuff. Regards Ernie

 

[chud333]

Talk to someone who shoots or has shot Benchrest
Matches. While it may not be entirely what you
are doing or want to do these guys can tell you what
makes the difference between shooting 5 shots under
an inch and shooting 5 shots in the same hole.
Using good bullets, fully prepping your brass, weighing
and sorting your components, breathing control, etc....
the list goes on and on. Perhaps attend a Benchrest Match
or 1000 yard shoot in your area and introduce yourself and
ask questions. If you truly want to shoot MOA at 1000
yards you will most likely have to shoot something custom
made for the purpose. These rifles will benefit from a good
"break in" process.

Chuck

 

[chief38]

I have bought many new rifles and in the amount of shots that it takes me to properly sight in the scope, the rifles seems to shoot dead on and consistent. I too have heard about a break-in period and don't know if I really buy into it or not. The rifles I have shoot nice tight consistent groups and out shoot what I am capable of, so break-in period......... don't know.

 

[growr]

5" at 1000 meters? I am not sure even the US Palma team members achieve that with the highly refined rifles that they use. That is a VERY lofty goal.....

I am not sure in minute of angle what 5" is at a 1000 meters.....having shot Palma matches which are 800-900 & 1000 yards I think there are too many variables to achieve what you are seeking.

What cartridge are you using? The current darling of the long range shooters is the 6.5-.284

Randy

 

[Waywatcher]

Here's how I "broke in" my new Winchester M70 I bought recently:

1. I cleaned it before taking it to the range for the first time.

2. I put 100 rounds through it, spread out over 4 range trips. I haven't cleaned it since the initial cleaning, but I have added lube and wiped it down.

Last range trip I worked up a handload that put 5 shots into 0.625" at 100 yards. Works for me.

 

[Cocked & Locked]

For me, a new rifle/barrel is broken in after about three deer have been taken with it.

 

[WR Moore]

If you want advice straight from the horses mouth, both Gale McMillan and Boots Obermeyer have websites. Boots runs on quite a bit about interesting stuff, I don't recall his advice about breakin, his barrels are cut rifled. McMillan states it's a waste of time (you could search for Gale McMillan on barrel breakin).

Now then, 5" at 1000 yards is about 1/2 MOA. Your ability to read wind and maintain a steady position is far more important at that range than how-or if-you broke in your barrel. Uniformity of ammunition velocity is also extremely important at that range. A difference of 100 fps at 15 feet from the muzzle is very noticable in vertical dispersion at 1000 yards.

There's a lot of snake oil and male bovine excrement peddled amoungst those who want itty-bitty groups at any range. Yeah, some of it may, just may, make a difference but it generally isn't significant.

BTW, the world record at 1000 yards is a group somewhere around 3" from a bench. Shot with a rifle/scope combo that ran close to 5 figures and weighed about 30 lbs. You'll wear out several rifle barrels getting that good. The military snipers have found that a 7.62x51mm/.308 barrel is good for about 7,000-8,000 rounds. You might look into F-Class NRA long range (600 & 1000 yard) matches, they allow bipods/rests and generally run a "tactical" class restricted to bipoded .223 & .308 rifles. The folks at the matches are generally quite helpful-some more than others.

 

[Rule3]

The only reason I'm asking this question is because 3 shots at 100 yards covered by a dime is nice, but I want 3 shots grouped smaller than 5" at 1,000 meters. I don't have that ability today, but I'm hoping to get there. For that I want the best I can get within my limited resources.



Sure, I could take the stance of, "It won't hurt so, why not?" But, at over $1/round it's not that simple. I have to make the most of what I have. I just don't want to waste the ammo if I don't have to.

You didn't say what brand of rifle or barrel so it's also a matter of how good is it to begin with. If it some fancy custom made gun for a gazillion dollars then sure, spend the time, can't hurt. All I am saying is you can not make a barrel better then it is originally.

You are not wasting ammo you are just cleaning it a WHOLE lot by the break in thing. Fire one shot and clean. What does that do??

Does the owners manual or web site say anything about Break in?

How many handguns has anyone broken in????

 

[BigBill]

My facts and thoughts about barrel break in and accuracy,

If a new rifle isn't accurate right out of the box it needs so called barrel break in so the manufacturer covers his you know what by using his rifling broach or button way to long without replacing it. We end up with small burrs in the rifling. This is why it needs to be shot to break it in.

My brand new '94 remington 700 in 338win mag. Wasn't accurate using the new remington 338wm ammo. But when I switched to Winchester super x ammo on my last scope adjustment I put a round on top of the x in the center ring. A follow up shot to make sure the adjustment was correct took the rest of the x ring completely out. I put two rounds thru the same hole at 100yds with a 338wm using factory ammo.

Now with my new '72 Mossberg in 30-06 after trying every brand of new ammo it still shot 1 1/2" to 2" groups @100yds. When I reloaded for it to this day she shoots nickle sized groups. Not bad for a $172 New rifle that came with a scope. I pulled my hair out on this one but never gave up on making it accurate. I regret not buying more '72 Mossberg back then.

My new 444 marlin is accurate using new remington 444 ammo go figure.

I believe a new rifle should have decent accuracy right out of the box. It's either the ammo were using or the quality of the bore/rifling is questionable. I do not believe in barrel break in. I just shoot it.

Excessive throat wear can be from the bullet not being seated towards the rifling. If it's seated too far away from where the rifling starts it wobbles till it enters the bore causing excessive throat wear over time.

I believe my remington 700 in 338wm is one in a million rifles that comes out being this accurate. I don't shoot it much because it's so accurate.

Now my new Russian Izmash Saigas in 308win with a 16" barrel using surplus South African 308 FMJ ball ammo at 100yds shoots 1 1/2" groups constantly. Now here's a brand new sheet metal ak/akm rifle in a sporter version with this kind of accuracy for $389 New, again right out of the box too.

Even my new right out of the box Chinese norinco paratrooper sks at 100yds using new norinco yellow box ammo will shoot 1 1/2" groups too.

I figure my 62yo diabetic eyes is holding me back from shooting better than 1 1/2" groups with the original iron sights (no scope).

Now my 100yo war horse that has seen many battles, my 1907 Swede 6,5mm mauser shoots 1 1/2" groups at 100yards using new seller & bellot ammo.

Do you practice controlling your breathing during shooting? Once we do it becomes automatic when we shoot. I was taught at a gun club to take one deep breath and let it out, take another deep breath let it halfway out and hold then shoot. As I begin to take the second deep breath I pull the rifle straight down into my bed rests. Lining up the sights on the x ring. I hold and shoot. Once we constantly practice this method we eliminate the human error in accuracy. Now it's either the gun or the ammo were using.

I fabricated my own heavy duty cushioned gun rests from 2"x10". The front one is a wide vee while the rear one is a narrow vee. I move the rear one forward or to the rear till the sights line up perfectly on the x ring when
I pull the rifle straight down into the rests. Now the rifle is rock solid into the rests.

Ok back to barrel break in. Some guys swab the bore between shots too when the bore is new. If that makes you feel good by all means do it. I do take my time between shots to keep the barrel as cold as possible. I figure when hunting that first shot will be touched off with a cold barrel.

New barrel accuracy isn't a given. Sometimes it can drive us nuts. Remember to stay with it till the accuracy dials in.

About barrel break in I'm still on the fence about it.

 

[Marine Corps Air]

This has been an enlightening post. I have a new (never fired) SA M1A. I called SA CS regarding whether I needed to do this, or not. They also recommended the use of a bore snake. They referred me to the Krieger website. The entire article is attached.

"Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file. When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat "polished" without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the "fire-one-shot-and-clean" procedure."

I believe that Winchester made a similar recommendation to me.

Update - I just contacted SA CS. While they do use chrome moly barrels, they are not Krieger barrels. However, the information in the attached file from Krieger explains the process and is easy to follow. SA recommends 2-3 rounds to heat up the barrel, run the bore snake from the breach to the muzzle, then run new cotton patches to check that the copper fouling has been removed. If dirty, repeat the process. If clean, continue firing.