Browning BAR troubleshooting

[rchall]

I have an older Browning BAR that does not fire. It doesn’t dent the cartridge primer when the trigger is pulled. I have taken it apart and cleaned it and do not see anything out of place. Cleaned out the bolt and the pin and spring seem to be intact and moving freely. It seems to lock up properly when in battery, but no fire??? Broken firing pin, weak spring, ??? What would be the first thing to check?? Thanks for your suggestions!

 

[Ivan the Butcher]

Did you disassemble the bolt? There is often a "gunk" build-up that hinders firing pin movement.

I have cleaned bolts with spray carb or brake cleaner. (Do it outside over an area you don't care if anything grows! Wear gloves & eye protection!)

1) Flood bolt through firing pin hole and let drain
2) repeat several times
3) you know when to quit when you can hear the parts move freely (you may have to let dry 10 minutes, to hear movement)

Ivan

 

[rchall]

I have not had the bolt out of the gun, but did spray through the pin hole with GunScrubber. Parts seem to be moving freely but who knows?? Maybe it will have to be removed for a good soaking and inspection. Thanks!

 

[2152hq]

Does it fire at all? Like one shot and then fails to fire after that?

When it fails to fire, can you hear the hammer drop or is there no engagement of trigger to hammer (uncocked).

Fail to fire can be the bolt not completely locked into battery.
That can be anything from dirt and crud in the locking lugs and ways to the shooter lovingly loading the first round by letting the bolt close slow and easy.
Pull the bolt handle to the rear and release it to load. Let the spring action do it's work to load the round and close and lock the bolt.

Firing pin could be broken. The front 2/3 is long, slender and tapered. A simple coil spring surrounds it. A broken section can stay in there and if it lines up can continue to fire intermitantly.
Being tapered, the broken section won't fall from the front of the bolt face. But it can slide forward and show itself if you lock the bolt back and tip the rifle muzzle down,,rap on the recv'r a bit.
If you see the firing pin tip hanging out the front of the bolt, it's broken.

If the gas system is fouled, that can cause the rifle to fail to cock the hammer after firing a round, but the action/bolt can be cycled far enough to eject the fired rd and chamber a fresh one.
That leaves you with nothing when you go to fire that next rd,,not even a click as the hammer is not cocked.

 

[rchall]

Firing pin did not drop out when I turned it upside down and shook it. Could it be weak springs somewhere?? Primers are not dented at all when chambered and trigger is pulled, sounds like the hammer is falling but no
detonation. I cleaned it very well and sprayed solvent into the bolt, but still no fire.

 

[Eric300]

"Spraying solvent into the bolt" could cause more detrimental than helpful. Well, assuming that the bolt is going into full battery, and, the hammer is dropping properly, apparently the FP isn't hitting the primer. So, either the 'nose' of the FP is broken off, or, there's so much gunk in the FP channel portion of the bolt that the FP cannot move forward enough to contact the primer. First thing I would do is remove the bolt and give it a complete cleaning with Gun Scrubber and an air hose to make sure that it is perfectly clean and there's no crud plugging the breech face. If that doesn't do the trick, I'd be looking real close at the FP itself.

 

[Fishinfool]

I would try letting the bolt close under its own spring power, on an empty chamber. Point the gun up, and drop a wooden dowel down the bore, so it rests on the bolt face, then pull the trigger. The firing pin should hit hard enough to make the dowel jump. If it doesn't, my guess would be the firing pin is broken, or there is an issue with the disconnector.

This schematic might help.

https://www.browning.com/content/dam/browning/support/owners-manuals/barmark2manual.pdf

EDITED to add - Are you using reloads? if so, they may not be fully chambering, causing the issue you are experiencing.

Larry

 

[Mike in Reedley]

EDITED to add - Are you using reloads? if so, they may not be fully chambering, causing the issue you are experiencing.

Larry

If you are reloading, semi auto rifles often need a small base resizing die.

 

[rchall]

Using Federal factory ammo, no reloads.

 

[Buick]

Browning BAR Trouble Shooting - YouTube

 

[rchall]

I think the problem is that the bolt is not locking up completely?? Have cleaned and lubricated as best I can, but still not locking up. Not sure what’s going on in there??

 

[rchall]

Have taken the bolt out and gave it a good cleaning. Replaced the timing latch which was showing wear, then lightly lubed and reassembled the gun. Bolt goes into battery perfectly with no round, but won’t close when one is chambered. However, it extracts and ejects perfectly by hand. Going to try a new action spring and if that doesn’t do it the gunsmith has another job!

 

[rchall]

Is anyone familiar with a good gunsmith who might be able to check this rifle over and make the necessary repairs?? Thanks!

 

[s&wchad]

I’ve dealt with Art’s Gun Shop and they do excellent work. They are a Browning repair center, but they’re in MO and shipping will be expensive. You may want to do an internet search for gunsmiths in your area. You may be able to handle this yourself, with a little help.

The field service manual:

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/field_service_manual/browning_bar_fsm.pdf

I read through your posts and it sound like the gun locks up and the gun seems to function properly on an empty chamber, but not with a factory cartridge.

Sometimes little things are easy to miss. Are you sure you’re using the correct ammo? How far will a cartridge drop into the chamber? It’s possible that you have a piece of brass from a ruptured case neck stuck in the chamber. It could also need a thorough cleaning or some new parts. This video has a wealth of information and may help. There are two parts and they’re worth watching. Amazing how they require sign-in for this...

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afvhm_Gvhew[/ame]

 

[505Gibbs]

I'd go with S&W Chad and suggest the chamber be scrubbed out well for carbon build up and then check it out.

 

[rchall]

I have checked a lot of things out and can find nothing that seems to be wrong. Replaced the timing latch on the bolt and action spring. Cleaned and lubed. Everything looks good, apparently I’m missing something. Talked with Art’s and they didn’t seem to eager to take it on. I know of
a smith about 50 miles away who said bring it. So, that is probably where I’ll go.

 

[lihpster]

I owned a BAR and had a similar experience. Don't get your hopes up, I won't be much help. Had disassembled the gun for the first time and then reassembled it. Dry fire and it goes click. Take it hunting and it goes click when it should have gone boom. No dent in primer. Took it apart, nothing seems out of place. Reassemble and it shoots! No idea what was the cause but i took it apart several times after that and it always worked after reassembly. Good luck!

 

[rchall]

Yeah, they seem to be finicky. Never had trouble with it till now. I always keep my guns clean and lightly oiled. I think it is something in the bolt or else burrs or something like that in the chamber or just ahead of it. I’ve done probably all I know how so it’s time to get a gunsmith to check it over. Just need to find one close to where I’m at.

 

[lihpster]

I really liked mine. Would still have it if i hadn't had to sell a few firearms for liquidity purposes. Was my deer rifle but by then I had inherited my brother's Pre-64 Mod. 70. Got a few deer with the Browning though.