Buffalo Bore safe in new model 19?
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SWFan27
Member
Yes. They use new Smith and Wessons during their testing. I have shot them with the modern K frames. I own a 66-8 and a 19-9 Classic and they both have full size forcing cones without the thin spot the old ones had. The new K frames can handle the hottest 357 Magnums available today.
Heavy 357 Magnum Ammo
125 gr. J.H.C. (1,700 fps/M.E. 802 ft. lbs.)
20 Round Box
ITEM 19D
Our 357 mag. ammo adds more power than ever before to the 357 Mag. This ammo is safe to shoot in ANY all steel 357 revolver - this includes J frames. This ammo is no harder on your gun than any other normal 357 ammo. Please don't phone or email us and ask if this ammo is safe in your gun. It is, providing your gun is in a safe condition for use with any normal 357 ammo.
We don't recommend this ammo to be fired in super light alloy revolvers as bullets may jump crimp under recoil, but the ammo itself won't hurt these super light weight revolvers. These revolvers are simply so light that the recoil is severe enough to cause jump crimp.
The below velocities are offered so that you can see what guns/barrel lengths give what velocities with this new 357 mag. ammo. You'll notice that new S&W revolvers with short barrels are often shooting faster than older S&W revolvers with longer barrels. The new S&W revolvers are very good and are made with equipment that makes them more consistent and faster than the S&W revolvers of yesteryear.
Heavy 357 Magnum Ammo
125 gr. J.H.C. (1,700 fps/M.E. 802 ft. lbs.)
20 Round Box
ITEM 19D
Our 357 mag. ammo adds more power than ever before to the 357 Mag. This ammo is safe to shoot in ANY all steel 357 revolver - this includes J frames. This ammo is no harder on your gun than any other normal 357 ammo. Please don't phone or email us and ask if this ammo is safe in your gun. It is, providing your gun is in a safe condition for use with any normal 357 ammo.
We don't recommend this ammo to be fired in super light alloy revolvers as bullets may jump crimp under recoil, but the ammo itself won't hurt these super light weight revolvers. These revolvers are simply so light that the recoil is severe enough to cause jump crimp.
The below velocities are offered so that you can see what guns/barrel lengths give what velocities with this new 357 mag. ammo. You'll notice that new S&W revolvers with short barrels are often shooting faster than older S&W revolvers with longer barrels. The new S&W revolvers are very good and are made with equipment that makes them more consistent and faster than the S&W revolvers of yesteryear.
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I like their 19/E in my 2.75" 66-8. I have also shot a couple of boxes of WW 145 Silvertips. 3 cylinders full are about all I care to shoot of that load as it's pretty snappy.
The redesigned K-frame 357's are more durable than the originals and should hold up much better with full power 357 Magnum ammo. The biggest issue was the forcing cone, which had a thin spot to allow for cylinder gas ring and yoke clearance. The redesigned K-frame's forcing cone does not have the flat spot, so is much stronger and far less prone to cracking.
The current issue with S&W revolvers is quality of construction, so inspect very carefully for issues with finish, fit, function, and the smoothness of machining.
The current issue with S&W revolvers is quality of construction, so inspect very carefully for issues with finish, fit, function, and the smoothness of machining.
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"Can" is not the same as "should", IMO.
For stout loads, I would prefer to use my N-frame 28 over my 19s.
But, it's not MY gun. I get that.
For stout loads, I would prefer to use my N-frame 28 over my 19s.
But, it's not MY gun. I get that.
Pretty much my sentiments as well ^^^^^
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If you are using it for "woods carry" and only a few Magnums are shot - I don't see an issue. Even the old model 19's will easily handle an ocassional cylinder of magnums. It's when they are fed a steady diet of light weight magnums that issues present themselves.
I have a bunch of vintage K frames chambered for .357 magnum and have only shot a dozen or so from each - all 158 grainers. I normally shoot .38 specials however when in the woods I will carry 180 grain .357 Buffalo Bore Heavy LSWC magnums in my 3" M65 K frame. While I'd never shoot many of these from a K frame, if attacked by a Bear or similar I would not be concerned about accelerated wear on the gun. The 3" M65 is a very small and light 357 that I always take with me. I am not into toting a really heavy L or N frame with a 6" barrel all over the woods. While they are much stronger guns, I am not willing to carry twice the size and weight ion the unlikely possibility I'd need to use it. At least the K frame is always with me in the woods.
When I feel the need to make a lot of noise, I will take an L or N frame to the Range. Those will handle lots and lots of magnums with no issues.
I have a bunch of vintage K frames chambered for .357 magnum and have only shot a dozen or so from each - all 158 grainers. I normally shoot .38 specials however when in the woods I will carry 180 grain .357 Buffalo Bore Heavy LSWC magnums in my 3" M65 K frame. While I'd never shoot many of these from a K frame, if attacked by a Bear or similar I would not be concerned about accelerated wear on the gun. The 3" M65 is a very small and light 357 that I always take with me. I am not into toting a really heavy L or N frame with a 6" barrel all over the woods. While they are much stronger guns, I am not willing to carry twice the size and weight ion the unlikely possibility I'd need to use it. At least the K frame is always with me in the woods.
When I feel the need to make a lot of noise, I will take an L or N frame to the Range. Those will handle lots and lots of magnums with no issues.
What the guys have said. Note though that hot .357’s from a K (or J��
are not especially “fun” to shoot recoil wise, but for a woods guns, no problem. I routinely carry a 3” Model 60 J stoked pretty warm when in the sticks or knocking around the farm. More than enough horsepower to deal with “whatever”. My first round if always a shot load as I don’t like Ol’ No Shoulders, the other 4 are pretty warm mags. Occasionally will dump a ‘yote or other varmint in need of a quick dispatch.
are not especially “fun” to shoot recoil wise, but for a woods guns, no problem. I routinely carry a 3” Model 60 J stoked pretty warm when in the sticks or knocking around the farm. More than enough horsepower to deal with “whatever”. My first round if always a shot load as I don’t like Ol’ No Shoulders, the other 4 are pretty warm mags. Occasionally will dump a ‘yote or other varmint in need of a quick dispatch.SWFan27
Member
I have shot many thousands of hot 357 Magnums through my 66-8 since it was the first 357 Magnum revolver I purchased. I have shot Buffalo Bore and other boutique brands, along many Remington 125 grain SJHP. And there have been other brands as well as target ammo and my dad's reloads, which are basically the Remington load in both 125 and 158 grain.
My 66-8 forcing cone is in perfect shape. I recently bought a new Model 19-9 Classic K frame, and I own a 686+ L frame as well. The new K frames are built like tanks, and you will not hurt them. Shoot all of the 357 Mags you want without worry. S&W redesigned the K frames to eliminate the forcing cone concern. That is an issue from the past and not the present.
My 66-8 forcing cone is in perfect shape. I recently bought a new Model 19-9 Classic K frame, and I own a 686+ L frame as well. The new K frames are built like tanks, and you will not hurt them. Shoot all of the 357 Mags you want without worry. S&W redesigned the K frames to eliminate the forcing cone concern. That is an issue from the past and not the present.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
I wish Buffalo Bore would offer the 158 gr. LSWHP in .357 cases at 950-975 FPS out of a 2.5-3" barrel
Rock185
US Veteran
I don't think testing and carrying Buffalo Bore in a K-frame 19,66,etc., of whatever vintage, is of any concern. I just shot enough BB 180 grain .357 in my old 66 to do some testing, but I would not hesitate to carry the BB in the same gun if I had the desire or felt the need..
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bluelund79
Member
They’re a fun load, and for factory fodder, they do provide some reassurance. For handloads, I like to load 38+p in 357 mag cases for my 686+. With some tinkering, I have them at a very similar POA/POI as the buffalo bore loads.
FWIW, there was a guy on another forum documenting the use of his Model 66 with the updated forcing cone, with a steady diet of 158gr .357 Magnum loads. He got in to the thousands, then just stopped updating, as it was quite uneventful.
I love the way that bluing looks, but for a woods gun, I would be more inclined to get a Model 66 for the greater corrosion resistance with less maintenance. Due to modern environmental regs, the modern bluing isn't as durable as it used to be. Even back in the days when they could still do it, stainless was a big, high-demand, selling point when the Model 60 came out in 1965.
I love the way that bluing looks, but for a woods gun, I would be more inclined to get a Model 66 for the greater corrosion resistance with less maintenance. Due to modern environmental regs, the modern bluing isn't as durable as it used to be. Even back in the days when they could still do it, stainless was a big, high-demand, selling point when the Model 60 came out in 1965.
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